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-   -   2002 7.3 wont start (https://www.dieselbombers.com/ford-powerstroke-99-03-7-3l/107767-2002-7-3-wont-start.html)

PowerstrokeAdam 01-13-2013 11:19 AM
2002 7.3 wont start
 
Hello, I'm new to the forum, but i've been told this is the place to go for answers. I have a 2002 7.3 Powerstroke that will crank, but won't start. I was driving down the road to work, and the truck just shut off on me, no warning, no check engine, no spit-n-sputter, just bam, shut off, luckily I coasted into a gas station and tried to start my truck again, but to no avail it wouldn't start. I had a buddy tow me back to my house, where I hooked up my actron scanner to see if it was pulling any codes, but no codes showed up. I read in my Ford Repair Manual that there was a recall on the CPS, so I replaced that, but it still wont start. I read a little bit about the bowl heater shorting out and blowing fuses, but all my fuses are intact, and I live in the south so any of the heating equipment rarely gets used. My HPOP Oil level is good, nearly full. My fuel pump is working and the bowl fills up. I've got 230k miles on the truck and never had to replace anything major. Any help would be appreciated.

Regards,

Adam.

poor boy,s toy 01-13-2013 11:31 AM
i have 03 that had a similar problem there is a fuseable link inbetwee air box and cab it is what powers the cab check that my truck would start and shut off with in seconds just check that i found mine by accident

95powersmoker 01-13-2013 11:57 AM
You've checked all fuses in the cab and under the hood? Not just visually but with a meter?

PowerstrokeAdam 01-13-2013 12:21 PM
@poor boys, I couldn't find the fuseable link you were talking about, but I checked all the relays in that area and they're all good.

@95power I just hit them all with a meter and they're all good.

mysterync 01-13-2013 12:38 PM
Originally Posted by PowerstrokeAdam (Post 979371)
Hello, I'm new to the forum, but i've been told this is the place to go for answers. I have a 2002 7.3 Powerstroke that will crank, but won't start. I was driving down the road to work, and the truck just shut off on me, no warning, no check engine, no spit-n-sputter, just bam, shut off, luckily I coasted into a gas station and tried to start my truck again, but to no avail it wouldn't start. I had a buddy tow me back to my house, where I hooked up my actron scanner to see if it was pulling any codes, but no codes showed up. I read in my Ford Repair Manual that there was a recall on the CPS, so I replaced that, but it still wont start. I read a little bit about the bowl heater shorting out and blowing fuses, but all my fuses are intact, and I live in the south so any of the heating equipment rarely gets used. My HPOP Oil level is good, nearly full. My fuel pump is working and the bowl fills up. I've got 230k miles on the truck and never had to replace anything major. Any help would be appreciated.

Regards,

Adam.
Ive had Ipr nuts fall off and cause similar issues. Are you able to see icp ? Chances are that would throw a code but without a little more data that might be a challenge to diagnose. Ive also had idm's fail with no codes/no start

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PowerstrokeAdam 01-13-2013 01:38 PM
IPR nuts are all still on, can't see icp. I took out my IDM and im gonna eat lunch then take it to my brothers to swap out for his to see if thats the problem, will update later.

mysterync 01-13-2013 02:01 PM
If you back probe the icp sensor (pin 2/ dark blue with light green tracer) you can determine via voltage if you have enough oil pressure to start. You would look for a minimum of .83V (500 psi ) while cranking. 1.4v is 1000psi for references sake. If this figure is below .02 you'll need to check vref and ground.

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PowerstrokeAdam 01-13-2013 04:04 PM
Only showing me .14V while cranking..

*Edit*

I noticed too that my ICP sensor was also oily when I unplugged it, im guessing this is a sign that is bad.. How much you reckon a new one would cost? And what does ICP actually stand for? Injection Control Pressure?

mysterync 01-13-2013 04:08 PM
Originally Posted by PowerstrokeAdam (Post 979448)
Only showing me .14V while cranking..
KOEO measure voltage with the volt meter common in one of the other pins and the red lead to the other pin (not the signal you initially checked). You should see 5 volts


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mysterync 01-13-2013 04:16 PM
Originally Posted by PowerstrokeAdam (Post 979448)
Only showing me .14V while cranking..

*Edit*

I noticed too that my ICP sensor was also oily when I unplugged it, im guessing this is a sign that is bad.. How much you reckon a new one would cost? And what does ICP actually stand for? Injection Control Pressure?
Correct injection control pressure. You checked the first test with it plugged in right?
Oil could indicate a failed sensor but the next test i posted will verify sensor ground and reference (vref). If its good, you eaither have low pressure in the hpo circuit or a failed sensor. You could unplug it and see if it starts but the correct way to test it is with a scan tool. You could watch signal voltage for the icp pid and unplug the sensor. If the voltage changes wiring is verified good. If if you jump vref to signal and the truck starts the sensor is bad. (signal is just a voltage sensing circuit is a pull up design and may have bias voltage on it) i normally don't offer instructions for testing in that manner and it would be much safer to use a test light!
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PowerstrokeAdam 01-13-2013 04:24 PM
Alrighty, im getting 5 volts.

mysterync 01-13-2013 04:32 PM
I usually manually test pressure at this point. Does that first voltage drop when you stop cranking the truck? Should drop to .02v

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PowerstrokeAdam 01-13-2013 04:38 PM
It drops to .07, haven't seen it go any lower. My scanner won't read anything other than engine rpm and vehicle speeds.. I don't think this scanner was made for diesels, but I did a voltage check like you said, 0.14 volts when cranking. .07 volts when i stop. Seeing 5 volts from the two wires. I'm stumped on this one. Truck won't fire regardless if ICP is plugged in or not, I'm starting to think that maybe it is the IDM?

*Edit*
My bad, it does drop to .02 volts, It just takes a little while.

mysterync 01-13-2013 04:42 PM
Not the idm this go round. You icp sensor is good. You have a high pressure oil leak, could be a bad hpop, a bad ipr, a failed injector or o-ring but the reason the truck wont start it high pressure oil.

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PowerstrokeAdam 01-13-2013 04:57 PM
well, this blows.. I'm done messin around with this thing for tonight. Thanks for the help, I'd still be scratchin' my head without ya!

mysterync 01-13-2013 05:10 PM
Originally Posted by PowerstrokeAdam (Post 979465)
well, this blows.. I'm done messin around with this thing for tonight. Thanks for the help, I'd still be scratchin' my head without ya!
Glad i could help!

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poor boy,s toy 01-13-2013 06:52 PM
that fuse link is more like a stud in a plastic box one wire in and two out it mounts on the inner fender well

mysterync 01-13-2013 07:20 PM
Originally Posted by poor boy,s toy (Post 979490)
that fuse link is more like a stud in a plastic box one wire in and two out it mounts on the inner fender well
We've ruled that out this go round! Definitely a good tip tho!

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PowerstrokeAdam 01-14-2013 01:52 PM
Is there any way to test an IPR? It has 12 Volts going to it, but I can't tell if its working. Decided to try this first rather than buying a new HPOP or messing with injectors.

mysterync 01-14-2013 08:21 PM
Sure you could check resistance across the two pins on the ipr. Should be 5-20 ohms. Check the red wire for battery voltage while cranking with it plugged in. If you've got a meter that will read duty cycle you could check the duty cycle on the yellow/red wire. You could pull it and check for damage. The ipr isn't very expensive. If you see any damage just replace it.

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PowerstrokeAdam 01-14-2013 09:02 PM
Looked into how much an IPR is at the Advanced Auto parts around the corner, 180 bucks.. :( I'm gonna pull my IPR tomorrow possibly and go from there.

powerstrokin02 01-17-2013 06:15 PM
Originally Posted by PowerstrokeAdam (Post 979465)
well, this blows.. I'm done messin around with this thing for tonight. Thanks for the help, I'd still be scratchin' my head without ya!
Hey Adam,
I have an 02 7.3 also and have a similar problem where driving at 70 mph on the freeway, truck started running very rough. I was losing power and was able to get off to the side of the toll booth ramp. Never shut it off, looked under and all over, no fluid or sign of leak. Limped it back home, was worried because iof the loss of power was making the truck "shudder". After doing diligent research:argh:, I found out that the "under the valve cover" plug in had become disconnected. There is a way to test for this problem without using a wrench. Need have the truck running though, so your problem might be different.
With the valve cover removed, inside the valve cover, thru the gasket, there is the other half of the plug in, which provides electricity to the glow plugs and injectors. These trucks vibrate so much and heat build up, the plug in cannot survive this, separates and becomes slightly dislodged! Have to know about this, youtube helped out, but can be fixed by DIY, for .50! That's how I fixed mine, 2 quarters, one for each side! Ford wanted $400.00!:s:

ELWashburn 02-05-2013 01:18 PM
My 2001 f250 7.3 won't start I have replaced
Injectors
Glow Plugs
Valve Cover Gaskets
HPOP
LPOP
ICP
IPR
CPS
Altanator
Fuel Pump
Starter
Both Batteries
and rebuilt the fuel bowl

So.....I have a new IDM and I have gotten contradictions as to whether or not it will need to be programmed once it's installed. I saw that someone was going to swap out one with their brothers on this thread, can that be done? Does anyone know the definite answer to this?

mysterync 02-05-2013 03:28 PM
Originally Posted by ELWashburn (Post 986252)
My 2001 f250 7.3 won't start I have replaced
Injectors
Glow Plugs
Valve Cover Gaskets
HPOP
LPOP
ICP
IPR
CPS
Altanator
Fuel Pump
Starter
Both Batteries
and rebuilt the fuel bowl

So.....I have a new IDM and I have gotten contradictions as to whether or not it will need to be programmed once it's installed. I saw that someone was going to swap out one with their brothers on this thread, can that be done? Does anyone know the definite answer to this?
You should have hired a qualified technician to repair your truck, you would have spent much less money.

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ELWashburn 02-05-2013 06:13 PM
Well I did take it to what they advertised as "Powerstroke Specialists".

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

But guess since all you had was a smarta$$ remark that you must not know the answer to my question either!

mysterync 02-05-2013 07:21 PM
Originally Posted by ELWashburn (Post 986297)
Well I did take it to what they advertised as "Powerstroke Specialists".

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

But guess since all you had was a smarta$$ remark that you must not know the answer to my question either!
Well considering i wasnt being a smart ass??? Not very logical to toss parts truck at a truck and hope it fixes it? And it sounds your the ass considering you hijacked another fellows post that wasn't even related to your question. And considering ive installed hundreds of idms it seems i might have just a touch more knowledge than the average joe. Had i responded with a smart ass remark it would have probably circled around 3 things
1: your a fella who thought he could start a diesel shop and didnt have a clue what he was doing, and has convinced some poor soul hes a mechanic, now poor soul has been taken to the cleaners by someone who has no clue what their doing.
2: your a fella (probably under 25) who has changed spark plugs and is now a L1 master tech and think when his truck stops running he can fix it, and decided to replace every component thats ever been know to prevent a 7.3l from starting with no reason or knowledge that would indicate the item should be replaced.
3: you think all mechanics charge to much, and their really stupid so you decided to shop around, find the cheapest diesel shop, beg them to come to your house and tell you what's wrong with your truck when they wouldnt you had it towed and when they told you that it was going to be more than 50.00 to diagnose it you had it towed home saying you could fix it yourself.

Maybe im wrong, if i am my bad. The point is your one of hundreds who post here every day wanting someone to give them the answer to their problems, we can give you suggestions of items that cause common problems but we cant diagnose your truck. Its like posting on a health forum and asking if that time your ticker tocked it was a heart attack....who knows!!!!
Now i know you'll come back and say "i wasnt asking for help just about the idm" to that i say why the heck did you post the trucks life story? Why don't you start your own post and try again, or try and find a qualified shop to fix your truck instead of being a tightwad.
Not trying to be a jerk just the way i see it. Its a discussion board...dont show up just for advice and leave. Ps your question has been answered hundreds of times, quit being lazy and look for the answer!


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mysterync 02-05-2013 07:30 PM
Originally Posted by mysterync (Post 986324)
Well considering i wasnt being a smart ass??? Not very logical to toss parts truck at a truck and hope it fixes it? And it sounds your the ass considering you hijacked another fellows post that wasn't even related to your question. And considering ive installed hundreds of idms it seems i might have just a touch more knowledge than the average joe. Had i responded with a smart ass remark it would have probably circled around 3 things
1: your a fella who thought he could start a diesel shop and didnt have a clue what he was doing, and has convinced some poor soul hes a mechanic, now poor soul has been taken to the cleaners by someone who has no clue what their doing.
2: your a fella (probably under 25) who has changed spark plugs and is now a L1 master tech and think when his truck stops running he can fix it, and decided to replace every component thats ever been know to prevent a 7.3l from starting with no reason or knowledge that would indicate the item should be replaced.
3: you think all mechanics charge to much, and their really stupid so you decided to shop around, find the cheapest diesel shop, beg them to come to your house and tell you what's wrong with your truck when they wouldnt you had it towed and when they told you that it was going to be more than 50.00 to diagnose it you had it towed home saying you could fix it yourself.

Maybe im wrong, if i am my bad. The point is your one of hundreds who post here every day wanting someone to give them the answer to their problems, we can give you suggestions of items that cause common problems but we cant diagnose your truck. Its like posting on a health forum and asking if that time your ticker tocked it was a heart attack....who knows!!!!
Now i know you'll come back and say "i wasnt asking for help just about the idm" to that i say why the heck did you post the trucks life story? Why don't you start your own post and try again, or try and find a qualified shop to fix your truck instead of being a tightwad.
Not trying to be a jerk just the way i see it. Its a discussion board...dont show up just for advice and leave. Ps your question has been answered hundreds of times, quit being lazy and look for the answer!
And yes it can be switched without issue. Theres very basic function data on the idm (unlike ficms which have much more function) that i know of there isnt a company that remans idms that requires programming. The basic logic is the same from unit to unit so theres no need for vehicle specific programming.

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ELWashburn 02-06-2013 06:28 PM
Well actually I do have my own post on here and nobody had any answers! And NO I didn't take it to the cheapest mechanic and NO I didn't balk at the price of the mechanic and NO I didn't try to fix it myself. I took it to a mechanic that advertised themselves as POWERSTROKE SPECIALIST! And asking a question about what someone posted on THIS thread is not hijacking it! The ORIGINAL poster said he was switching out the IDM with his brothers truck which was a contradiction to what the "Powerstroke Specialist" told me could be done I asked that about it! But sounds like you are another dickhead mechanic just like the one that has taken full advantage because I am a female and trusted what he said and have spent so much on my truck that I am so far into in now I have no choice but to fix it. I came on this forum hoping that with knowledge I could stop the mechanic from taking advantage but we can see how that worked out! I might add that I don't live in a big city we live in a very small town with the nearest "big city" 3 hours away so I guess we take what we can get! Thanks but no thanks for no helping!

And you don't have a clue about me!!!! I think ANYONE with any sense can see that I am not a tightwad just simply by the parts I have bought and had installed AND I didn't BEG anyone to come to my house and tell me what is wrong, you know what they say about ASSUMPTION!

mysterync 02-06-2013 08:03 PM
Originally Posted by ELWashburn (Post 986571)
Well actually I do have my own post on here and nobody had any answers! And NO I didn't take it to the cheapest mechanic and NO I didn't balk at the price of the mechanic and NO I didn't try to fix it myself. I took it to a mechanic that advertised themselves as POWERSTROKE SPECIALIST! And asking a question about what someone posted on THIS thread is not hijacking it! The ORIGINAL poster said he was switching out the IDM with his brothers truck which was a contradiction to what the "Powerstroke Specialist" told me could be done I asked that about it! But sounds like you are another dickhead mechanic just like the one that has taken full advantage because I am a female and trusted what he said and have spent so much on my truck that I am so far into in now I have no choice but to fix it. I came on this forum hoping that with knowledge I could stop the mechanic from taking advantage but we can see how that worked out! I might add that I don't live in a big city we live in a very small town with the nearest "big city" 3 hours away so I guess we take what we can get! Thanks but no thanks for no helping!

And you don't have a clue about me!!!! I think ANYONE with any sense can see that I am not a tightwad just simply by the parts I have bought and had installed AND I didn't BEG anyone to come to my house and tell me what is wrong, you know what they say about ASSUMPTION!
Well for starters if you'll read my reply I stated that IF i was being a smart ass that would have been my reply, secondly you really think i knew you were female, and for that matter what difference does it make? I suppose you think that had you come to my shop that you would receive any other treatment because of your gender than a man???? If you mechanic took advantage of you i hate that for you and I'm sure there's legal action that can be taken but thats not my point. My point is that you ASSUMED (as you put it) that i was being a smart ass and questioned my knowledge when not only do you have no clue who I am or how i intended for my initial post to be taken. If you had read the entire thread you would have seen i have if nothing else a basic knowledge of automotive electronics. My initial post wasn't being a smart ass its simply indicating that regardless that replacing the given list of parts by the owner or a shop seems ridiculous at best to solve a problem. Not one peice of technical information or test procedures taken were included with your list which indicated to me that you may not have the information or ability to properly diagnose the issue, rarely would a vehicle require that many replacement parts to repair for a no start.
why would i not recommend that you find a qualified tech to work on the truck? Would you rather someone work for hours typing page after page of tech info for free till your trucks fixed? I guess im trying to say its not as easy as "put this part on, i think its bad".
Dont take me for a sexist pig when you dont know anything about me! And dont ASSUME that someones being a jerk when there not. Ps i live 3 hours away from any metropolitan area myself..plenty of qualified shops around.

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ELWashburn 02-06-2013 08:19 PM
Why would it take page after page of typing to say either "yes the IDM has to be programmed" or "no the IDM doesn't have to be programmed"?

mysterync 02-06-2013 08:33 PM
Originally Posted by ELWashburn (Post 986602)
Why would it take page after page of typing to say either "yes the IDM has to be programmed" or "no the IDM doesn't have to be programmed"?
I honestly didn't see the very last paragraph only the first and i answered it in my reply, but you say you couldn't find a answer yet i googled it and found the answer atleast 50 times? There again not being a jerk but the answer was available.
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&redir_esc=&client=ms-android-verizon&source=android-launcher-widget&v=141338691&qsubts=1360204261758&action=devloc&q=do+ford+idm+modules+require+programming
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ELWashburn 02-06-2013 09:36 PM
I am sick and tired of your condescending attitude, I know full well how to look things up on the internet. If you would read my original question you will see that I said I have had contradicting answers. I know what the internet says, I know what the company that I purchased the IDM said AND I know what the Ford dealerships say. Call any Ford dealership and ask their mechanics, they will tell you about 900 for the IDM and 140 to program it and it HAS TO BE PROGRAMMED. I was looking for an actual non ford dealership mechanic to give a straight up answer but I guess that was too fuckin much to ask for. This site is a JOKE and so are you!

Diesel Dawgs Performance 02-06-2013 10:19 PM
WTF?


Luke

mysterync 02-06-2013 10:31 PM
Originally Posted by ELWashburn (Post 986631)
I am sick and tired of your condescending attitude, I know full well how to look things up on the internet. If you would read my original question you will see that I said I have had contradicting answers. I know what the internet says, I know what the company that I purchased the IDM said AND I know what the Ford dealerships say. Call any Ford dealership and ask their mechanics, they will tell you about 900 for the IDM and 140 to program it and it HAS TO BE PROGRAMMED. I was looking for an actual non ford dealership mechanic to give a straight up answer but I guess that was too fuckin much to ask for. This site is a JOKE and so are you!
How did you get a condescending attitude from that lol? Maybe you should look back at the previous post , you instantly thought i was being rude, i wasnt. Im not trying to upset you further or be rude, i really feel like you think im some mean nasty old mechanic just trying to keep you oppressed or something. Quit reading my post like im trying to be a jerk! For gosh sakes lady its the internet, you cant see my facial expression or tone of voice, how can you say im condescending? I swear to you i had no intentions of starting a war by saying you should hire a professional technician. I had no intentions of being condescending when i posted a google link, for heavens sake the first result explained that a new unit from international or ford required programming while most reman units did not.Ford units are new iirc and are blank most remans on the market come pre programmed. That i know of the vin isn't stored in the unit.

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mysterync 02-06-2013 10:35 PM
On the bright side this is one of the only post on this forum with more than 10 current views lol

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Woodsracer 02-09-2013 01:32 PM
To the op does the WTS light come on. If not unplug the fuel heater and check the fuses.

deathius 07-25-2014 11:36 AM
I just had the same thing happen to me last night. Has anyone figure out what the cause was? 2002 7.3 diablosport tuned got on it then "Bang" and whole truck shut down. Will not start, a little oil next to the turbo between the valve cover on drivers side. Can't find where it's coming from without tearing it down. Any help would be appreciated.

~Jason


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