Need Advice ASAP
 

I have an early 99 7.3L Powerstroke. Bad injectors so Im going to replace. Need to know if i should put stage 1 injectors in, and if I do Im going to install the appropriate gauges, and need to know which tuner or chip to get and how to get it custom tuned so that the single shot injectors will work. Need advice and opinions asap. :humm: Truck Down!!!

Are you sure the injectors are bad and not something else? Wiring harness, etc.
Going with stage 1's is really up to you. It will give you more power and possibly better mileage depending on your driving. You will need a custom tuned chip and guages.
If you want to go that route, go with a ts chip using php, beans, tony wildman, or swamps tunes.
I have 250/100 injectors and run php and beans tunes. However it takes time getting the tunes dialed in unless you live near one of them and get live tuning. I have also noticed a big increase in egts with these injectors and it drives me nuts. I am currently working with both places to get my tunes dialed in until I can afford a rd trip to get live tuning. If I can't get where I want to be, then I will go back to stock injectors.

Yea injectors are stock with 236k miles. scheid did diagnostics and thinks its the injectors or idm. Im gonna replace the injectors because theyre shotty. They have stiction all over them and the split shot fuel release is completely clogged. So...im starting with the injectors but i decided to go with stock (gonna do the 25hp gain on the side of the hpop (i think). Not sure if thats right but i know where its located and how to do it so that seems like a good option. Plus with the less expensive injectors i can get my gauges and ts chip

i would lean more to getting stage 2 (160/100), so you actually gain a decent amount, but just call beans, swamps, dp, php, gearhead, any of those guys and tell them what you have done and what you want and they'll set you up with some good tunes :tu:

Please inlighten me on how you know the split shot fuel release is completely clogged?

What is Stiction and now does it get all over my injectors?

What CSIPSD said! Plus just what is the 25hp hpop gain?

How to Turn Up the Fuel on a 7.3 Injector Pump | eHow.com
you can manually turn up the fuel on your injector pump for a quick easy 25hp!!! check it out.
CSIPSD - I pulled my injectors and just looked at them I could barely scrape this black residue called stiction off of my nozzles with a knife (making sure not to damage obviously..i need my core charge back) It was really bad think I might have got bad fuel from BP so Im filing a claim and hopefully I can get all this paid for.:jump:

Need some more help tho......Bought Autometer 5757 trans temp that didnt seem to come with much does anyone know what I will need to purchase to install this? It doesnt even look like it came with a sender unit. Id just look and double check but its at the farm in the shop and Im not. Thanks for the help hope you guys turn up your fuel!!!

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turns out the turn up is only on the older model fords with injection pumps :argh: Any other suggestions to get some extra hp I know I need a new intake..got the exhaust. Should have moved on up to stage one injectors but figured a new fuel system upgrade would be close behind and the chip is a necessity to change to single shot. Ran out of money after the ol' lady found out about a damn good work week :ouch:

Rosewood injectors are dirt cheap and good reviews. Beans, swamps, DP, does tuning for single shot.

I was figuring as much since there is no way to "turn up" a HPOP. Static Friction aka "Stiction" is an internal friction force, not something that gets on them. 7.3's dont really have an issue with it but 6.0's are terrible about it, thats why they run the injector warm up "Clicking" while the GPs cycle. Sounds to me like you were just scraping the carbon off them, also doing such is a TERRIBLE idea! Honestly you could have just been having UVCH problems and tore down for no reason. Properly diagnosing is everything with powerstrokes.

As for power, since youre doing injectors already I'd personally do more than just stage 1's since the price difference is pennies in the long run so at least stage 2's altho I like hybrids. With a custom chip you can pull down any size injector to limit them to your fuel system/HPO setup until you get your upgrades in.Talk to Jody at DP tuner for this, then when you have the funds get yourself an AirDogg and a terminator T500.

since i was replacing the injectors anyways i didnt really care that i was scraping it off...i realize its a bad idea lol still not the smartest i agree. Got another problem and am going to do another post but just to get replies from guys i know have good advice......I installed my injectors pushed them in good but am kind of figuring MAYBE they didnt seat right. Got the truck to start and let it run for 45-1 hour just idling. Ran it down the road 10 mins and it was missing and very low power. When going uphill I had the accelerator more than halfway down and was only going 30 and wouldnt accelerate until it dropped down to 25 then kicked into overdrive to get up to 30-35 mph. Hard shifts and really low power. Missing out under load.

Solution : It was the injectors.
So after you tear down your truck and remove the old injectors and prepare to start installing your new injectors, MAKE SURE you oil the orings on the injectors very good (this will help with easier installation). Push your injector straight down until you hear a snapping noise. I believe this noise is the copper ring making direct flush contact with the bottom of the injector sleeve. (Quick check) Make sure there are no old orings or copper rings in the injector sleeve before you go to insert the new injectors. If you do not hear that snap sound pull the injector and reseat it until you HEAR it seat properly. This will save you much trouble rather than putting your injectors in and finding out that they are not seated properly and you have fuel spraying into your valve cover and mixing with your oil. Take it from someone who made this mistake, it sucks! :argh: However, once you have your injectors in and seated correctly and the rest of the engine put back together be prepared for hard shifts and air in your lines. Before you start and run your truck change the fuel filter. It should take about 100 miles give or take some..to get the air out and for your tranny to act properly. If your truck loses power after 300 or so miles change your fuel filter again. I had to do this because of bad fuel. Even tho I drained the lines and the fuel tank, I believe there was still sediment. So, I ran the truck for awhile and it started to bog down again. Simple change of the filter was all it needed. I hope this helps anyone that has an injector issue. I know that in my search of figuring out what was wrong with my truck, I got really annoyed by the fact that people would post and post and post about their problems but never put a resolution to that problem.

TRUCK YEA:rocking:

First, transmission shifting hard after injectors has nothing to do with air

Second, NO it does not take 100 miles to get the air out.

Third, and I think this is the big one we're all thinking around here. STEP THE FRAK AWAY FROM THE INNOCENT POWERSTROKE AND BY A 350 CHEVY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Your incompetence for working on this vehicle is LEGENDARY!!!!

Not sure why your having fuel filter issues.... I've changed three sets of injectors in my truck with the same fuel filter... Also, like smokey said, your trans shouldn't change with the injector swap...

All the diesel mechanics I talked to said you would have hard shifts at first...and literally only like four or five. But they all said it would happen. The fuel filter issues was from bad fuel the filter was wasted but never changed. And your right I dont have very much knowledge about diesels actually NONE...but I do know that I successfully changed my injectors and for only having the truck for less than a month with this happening Id say that that's pretty freaking good. Thanks for your comment tho seriously helpful. Might just think about that Chevy :moon: