new hpop, new lpop...
 

after 600 some $ in parts now, still nothing good. swapped idm from other truck, charged glow plug relay with blown fuse #22. (blew it twice in a row, swapped relays, no more fuses). Have a hydraulic gauge plugged into hp oil rail, and am getting nothing for pressure at crank. even with a false ether start. managed to strip out the plug on the top of the hpop reservoir, so can't even check to see if that is contributing to the problem. it has been a long time since I had to trouble shoot one of these troublesome psd's. Any good Ideas would be awesome. :scare2: its getting closer and closer to getting a cummins... I have an extra:jump:

have you checked the IPR?

more than checked the ipr, put some new o-rings on her too. in fact my hpop came with an ipr rebuild, all for $379.

got an extractor to get ahold of the res plug on top of the hpop res, and she was clear full... could she be in drastic need of an oil change? been running amsoil, 5k between filter changes, and she is due for her second filter change here about now.

should be showing some pressure in the high pressure oil rail.

even if it needed a oil change, you should still be getting pressure on the rails. when you replaced the HPOP, did you get the lines on the correct ports? even tho it would be pretty hard to mess that up with the way they are bent. try draining the HPOP res then crank it and see if it comes back up. then you'll know if the LPOP is good. as for the HPOP, i don't know why it's not putting anything out unless the pump is just a dud. whose pump is it? or the lines could be air logged. crack one of the plugs on the rails and see if that makes a difference.

lpop is new from napa this morning. I am thinking maybe air locked. I also read somewhere else that maybe pull start her, and drive her like I stole her a couple miles to get the air purged out... , I don't know. there has to be a better way to get the air out of the system.

i would crack a plug on each rail closest to the lines. then crank it over. if you can. have some one look and see when oil starts coming out then tighten them back down. i wouldn't pull start it. that could really tear sh!t up.

I had to replace a my fuel lift pump a few months ago.And after i was done it wouldn't start.So i sat and cranked for ever finally took it in and they said there was no pressure in the oil system.They found that theres two wires that run neer the fuel bowl that got trapped under it and it when i put it back in and tightend down and they got cut and shorted out so id look or any wires that are missing insulation or cut.cus after they put the two wires back on it fired rite up.

those two wires could have been for the IPR...

checked the wires at the ipr already, getting 12v at the red, and 2.4v at the yellow/red. I am pretty sure it is down to a pressure / airlock issue, have already run a bit of oil out of the pressure rail, should have gotten a little pressure out of something by now. Don't even know for sure which part failed to start with. Might have been solely a blown fuse that I traced back to the glow plug relay. Its been a mighty expensive blown fuse. (that I was pretty sure I checked by the way):argh:

even if the GPR wasn't putting power to the glow plugs, it should still try to fire. have you checked for codes?`

What were the symptoms when it came to you?

I take offence to the "troublesome" comment... Change the oil in them and they will run forever...

the wife was backing out of the driveway, went from rev to 2nd, and she says it died like she turned off the key.

definitely had a short in the gp relay, changed it and didn't blow #22 fuse again, and still once again had a wait to start light.

is it possible, being that they are both linked through #22, that a bad gp relay could fry the pcm? do I need to put down the pipe for a comment like that? or could a bad pcm fry a gp relay? The only psd tech manual I have is the electrical/vacuum manual.

I have one of those sick feelings that I have spent a whole lot of money on parts that I didn't need, and can't take back; all while searching for and missing a rather simple solution.

Unplug the fuel bowl heater, check the fuses again.

Need some way to scan it, first to see if the PCM is getting fired up and second to see what the ICP pressures are.

icp pressures are near 0, I have a 0 - 5000 psi hydraulic pressure gauge setup with a boss o-ring fitting that I put together just for this type of test. As for the pcm, all of the outputs that are to sensors directly linked between the pcm and the high pressure oil system that I am aware of seem to check out. but it is dificult without further equipment to see if the pcm is sending all of this info back to the idm.

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Also I can say with near 100% certainty that it was the gp relay that was popping the fuse. changed the fuse...blew the fuse...disconnected the control wire from pcm to gpr and changed the fuse... no more blown fuse...changed gpr... still no blown fuse.

1 small battle won:jump:

going to try checking dead head pressure off of the hpop tomorrow when I am off work, and see what that gets me, if I can't get any pressure off of the hpop itself, I can swap out the ipr from my other one. If I don't get any pressure, me and someon'e gonna have some words...

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no pressure from the "new" hpop, going to try swapping an ipr, and see from there, might stilll have some words.

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... stupid stupid stupid... fuel bowl heater...

99.9% of the time that is what it is....

98.9% of the time people tell me I am wrong.:argh:

Glad you got it fixed.