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shim on the fpr
:hellox: So today as I trouble shooted a fuel delivery problem which consisted of removing the fuel pressure regulator from the filter housing anyway to clean it, I wanted to try the advice I had picked up in another thread. It said you could shim the brass plug to achieve more fuel pressure. The thing is that my truck is stock motor to the best of my knowledge ( I bought it about 4 weeks ago). I shimmed it by using 1/8" industrial gasket material. When I got the truck running, I used a tire gauge and it showed 50 psi at idle. I had read you could use a tire gauge a few times before it would be trashed. Does anyone have any thoughts for or against this procedure? Did I just waste my time by doing that? It has a stock air filter and box, that I plan on putting an air intake on it soon. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
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How did you shim it?
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Originally Posted by CSIPSD
(Post 925103)
How did you shim it?
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most guys use a .177 cal BB...
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well i guess that im not most guys. haha. I had seen it mentioned and when i hear 'shim' i think one thing. and that is just what i did. Nobody ever mentioned a bb. Im not confident that I understand how it works. I feel a little stupid now, but could you elaborate a little? Switch it out, or place it on top of the other ball with the spring in there?
---AutoMerged DoublePost--- the article I had read on this subject mentioned not to go too far. 1/8" should be enough. |
i hear ya, workin in the oil patch you hear "shim" you think a flat piece, not a round object. ok, pull the FPR housing off, leave the spring in the fuel bowl housing. put the BB in the FPR and then screw it back to the bowl. and wala! you just bumped the fuel pressure. if you need more than a 1/8" then you need a new fuel pump.
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Oil patch is all ive ever known. Thank you very much for explaining that for me. I will work on that in the next couple of days. just for clarification, under the plug is a spring and ball that fit inside of a hollow plumb bob thing. the bb goes between the spring and the plug? or under the plumb bob thing? :humm:
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what do you do in the patch? rig mover down there? ok, like a said, just pull the FPR off and the spring and put the BB in, then the spring, then the FPR. and then check pressure/ what was the pressure before?
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Originally Posted by fordornothing
(Post 926845)
what was the pressure before?
Originally Posted by fordornothing
(Post 926845)
what do you do in the patch? rig mover down there?
---AutoMerged DoublePost--- I do have 1 more question though for you, I went through my 'no start' problem and it ended up just being some gunk issues and some loose hose clamps on the fuel pump. Every thing is cleaned up and fixed up with new fuel filter. She runs strong and good, but when she idles,,,,,i dont know,,,,, it's like she hiccups a little. the tach will go up a little and then back down. the tone of the idle sound will change to a not so smooth tone, then smooth out. This is with out the a/c on and it doesn't matter if she is warmed up or not. Basically I am worried that I may have damaged something, allowing the dirty fuel to get that far. I'm thinking of trying an ipr and hope that does the trick. Right now I am not so sure I can trust her to go out of town. |
my 94 does that. put a fuel pressure gauge on it and watch it as it idles. or get a scanner like AE and see what comes up. if you got 88 psi then you don't need a shim.
how long does it take to punch a hole? just a vertical or horizontal too? what depth? |
Yeah, I thought it would be a helpful mod, like a trick to get more hp on the cheap. I plan to get some gauges soon before I get to modding it up. What would make it do that? I never noticed it before I had that dirty fuel problem. Bad injector worries me. Oh and when I fixed the fuel problem, I filled the fuel bowl with 30% marvel oil and the rest diesel then put the new filter in to flush out any gunk, ran it around a bit then drained it and put all clean diesel in the fuel bowl then put the filter back in. I don't think that would've screwed anything up though.
We go about 9-11k ft down then kick out another 4-6k ft horizontal to hit that eagle ford shale play that's all the rage now. Takes about 1 month to drill one hole, plus another couple weeks to frac, and clean out then put the tree on and rock and roll. We drilled 25 on the lease I run but there's a lot of action aroun here all the way up to Victoria, Gonzales, Kennedy area. :):rocking: |
oh boy. that's a big hole. LOL. there was a fuster cluck out here last week with a drilling company. we got the derek coming in on wednesday for repair. i think it's a 200'. this will be funn getting in the yard.
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sounds to me like either an ipc, or an injector harness plug. I have had a crushed terminal in my injector plug before and she ran a little crappy, while it is running, unplug each of the four plugs one at a time where they go into the valve covers, and see what you hear.
:argh: |
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