Lots of STUFF going on. Help please
 

Alright, was checking a bunch of other threads and couldn't find anything exactly like mine but close. 2003 6.0. Only mod is a 5" straight pipe.
Recent Work Done
6months ago- 2 batteries, 1 injector, Motorcraft Fuel filters
3months ago- 2 more injectors
1month ago- ICP sensor (nightmare on the 03's I might add) and oil change. Used Rotella T 5w40 syn. and Motorcraft oil filter.

Problem now
Was going to base and cruising at 50 mph. went to accelerate and black smoke came barreling out of the exhaust in an endless line. Let off the throttle completely then slammed my foot down and held it. No more smoke came out but literally took me about 1-2 minutes to gain 5 miles per hour. Was confused so I let off the throttle and kept it at half throttle, and to my surprise, it was pulling my speed down still. Slammed my foot back down and still would BARELY accelerate. Fought it for about 1 1/2 - 2 miles to base. Took an off ramp to the visitors center and let completely off the throttle to let it decelerate itself on the curve. Could hear it idling like complete CRAP. Then once it hit 40 mph it just stalled out. Coasted it into a parking space in a turn around area, put it in park and started cranking it to see what was going on. Would not start. After 2 1/2 hours of sitting and came back off base for it, it still won't start. Checked FICM, came out fine. 47.5 with key on engine off, and 47.5 cranking. Just couldn't check it running, obviously. Loosened a fuel line and it sprayed fuel when the key was turned on. So it has no problem getting fuel.

I could not appreciate any more help than what ya'll can give me right now. I'm stressed the :edit: out. I'm changing bases in a month and a half and have to travel 1600 miles to my new base. So i need to fix it ASAP. Thank ya'll.:argh:

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Could it be as simple as the STC fitting or SCT whichever the hell one it is

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Or dummy plugs?

you can unplug the ICP sensor and see if it will start, it will be a default setting for High pressure oil. While you are back there pull the IPR valve and see if he screen is blown out or clogged, blown out would make sense for this scenario, clogged wouldn't make sense.It would be nice to put this on a scanner to see if you are getting HPoil, almost think the HPoil pump took a dump on you, hope not.

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if this is your 03 they dont have stc fitting that goes bad all the time, no dummy plugs either. you do have snat together fittings but they are less likely to fail, I just replaced all of mine for a maintinance and piece of mind thing, 257k on it. A pressure test using air would tell you if one of the lines has a leak in it

how hard is it to take out the ipr valve? im assuming the turbo has to come out. I don't have any buddies that have a scanner either. So unfortunantly i'm gonna try and get it to the mechanic in town and see what happens.

I use a 35mm wrench, bought a whole set of big ones at Harbour freight for like $40, they do make a socket for them too. it can be accessed by moving you degas bottle out of the way and removing the FICM, alot easier then pulling turbo. the IPR has a a foil wrap with velcro on it so its kind of hard to see, on the other hand if you pull turbo and it winds up being the pump you are halfway on the removal process.

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Oh yeah if you do it from drivers side remove the intake to turbo/filter housing and tubing/

ok. i'm gonna get it scanned tomorrow hopefully. I'll definitely let you know what they say. I found a new pump online at accuratediesel.com for 586. At O'Rielly's it was 1017. So i'm definitely gonna order that one if I have to lol.

without the socket it is definately easier when you pull turbo because if need be you can get a small pipe wrench on it.

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Check out Tousley Ford parts online, best prices you will find. If you want the best pump DieselSite.com has a billet one that eliminates all the failure prone problems with the stock pump, it huirts though, around $960

As long as you swear by it, i'd get it. lol. I don't wanna have these problems ever again. Having to drive from New Mexico to Michigan/Indiana area in a month and a half and don't want it acting up while my wife is driving it following me while i'm in the UHaul truck

Profanity is not tolerated anywhere in the open threads. I have changed the title of your thread, and your first post. I understand your frustration, and how things can slip.

https://www.dieselbombers.com/web-si...-language.html

ssorry. you only gotta tell me once.

The last time my work truck, 2006 F550 w/6.0L, left me on the side of the road, it was the sealing o-ring for high pressure oil to #7 injector. I pulled the high pressure oil sensor out, threaded an adapted fitting into the oil rail, and used shop compressed air to listen for leaks. The only air leak was from the back of the passenger side, so that is where I went. Unfortunately the steel ring in the sealing area was broken, so I had to get a new injector instead of a seal kit.

I was waiting for Mdub to ADD the "I like Turtles" to the title, instead of the wordy durds...
The Diesel Site pump is the best you can buy, hands down, as soon as I get back to work I will be buying one. Do the air test on High pressure system and scan for ICP desired and ICP actuall, these trucks need to see 500 psi to fire the injectors.

I went to the truck this morning after letting it sit for a night and half the day yesterday to see if it would fire. Aboslutely nothing. just cranked and cranked and cranked. My other question to ya'll would be, could it possibly be the crankshaft position sensor? i've heard of people having them go out and the motor dies and wont start

Sounds like the HPOP crapped out to me, definitely want to get a scanner on it and monitor ICP desired against ICP actual, and IPR duty cycle. Pulling the IPR would also work if it's got a busted screen and a bunch of debris... time to replace the HPOP.

The crankshaft position sensors RARELY go bad on these. Typically it will start throwing that code and the camshaft code when it's cranked a bunch and doesn't start.

ok. thank ya'll. gonna take it to the shop at 3. will let ya'll know what he says as soon as he calls me

any update:pca1:

Nothing yet bud. He was supposed to call me today and never did. As soon as he does ill have it posted though. I'm thinking either hpop or ipr though. If its hpop I'm gonna pop it apart and see how bad it is. If hpop then ill just do the ipr with it since the icp is new also. Just freshen up all those parts that work together since I'm in there

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Got an update.....Like ya'll said. His guess is either HPOP or IPR or maybe something as simple as just a leaking line. Said it only has between 250-270 PSI when he hooked up his scanner.

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Ok so how hard is this gonna be and time consuming? My only guesses is I have to take the Turbo off and the intake out along with everything connected to the intake. Is there anything else? Also how do you do a "air test" or whatever its called? I've looked up youtube videos and everything but don't quite seem to understand what i would be doing.

I pulled the high pressure oil sensor out, threaded an adapted fitting into the oil rail, and used shop compressed air to listen for leaks. You may be able to use a blow gun, with a rubber tip to pressurize with air, just harder to listen and hold the gun at the same time.

Do u mean the icp sensor? Did u take off anything, like valve covers or anything?

I didn't take anything off at first. Just the ICP sensor in the front passenger side valve cover. If you have the time, pull the sensor and take it to a hydraulics shop. They should be able to match it up to the correct fitting, and adapt it to pipe thread. From there, yo can add a ball valve, and air fitting for a shop air hose. Works wonders, and is WAY cheaper then the $900 kits I have seen.

yea that does sound way better. only thing that sucks is mines an 03. ICP is in the back of the motor. AHHHHHHHHHHHH. lol. Definitely taking the turbo out this time. Cant even tell you how many times I dropped the socket back there when I was changing that sensor. Took me 3 hours to change that thing.

they sell a adapter to hook up an air hose to the oil rail on the 03s, put it this way, if the ipr is good the pump is bad or the branch tube is cracked in half... when you hook up the air you remove the oil fill cap on pass side and and hook the adapter to the drivers side oil rail and listen for which side the air is coming from. remove turbo, remove turbo pedestal, undo all the claps on the egr cooler and the 2 bolts that that go through the intake to hold the egr cooler on, save yourself alot of time and loosen the 2 uppipes at the exhaust manifold to make it aesier to remove cooler and tighten them back up as the very last step/makes hooking the turbo up easier.
now is the time to find youself a late 04 and up intake to put on there, makes the ICP change a snap because you can see it with ease. diving in this far you don't have to remove the intake for the HPOP, buttttt, if you don't have a coolant filter on the truck and have over 40k on it then I would highly recomend doing an oil cooler rebuild and adding a coolant filter, they all will clog if coolant filters aren't used.

Yea i've got 130,000 on her and no coolant filter. I bought the truck back in December and it was 100% stock. I've pulled the EGR valve out twice since owning and checked the intake to see if it was dry or wet. It's been dry this whole time so far. If I changed the intake to a newer one, wouldn't I have to relocate the ICP to the valve cover? I figured I would pull the intake off at the same time as this work and clean the crap out of it and freshen her up inside. Would this help with anything or will it just soot back up quick? I also need to clean the Turbo out. I was getting a tiny little black poof cloud whenever I would slam my foot down after I put my exhaust on.

I have an early 04/ basicly an 03, and I put the later intake on, ICP screws into the cover of the HPOP and doesn't affect the intake at all. With the newer intake you can move the degas bottle out of way and remove the FICM then you can reach right back and touch the ICP and IPR. if you do a EGR cooler delete/ highly recomended/ you can cut off the mounting tab for the cooler and that will allow you to remove intake without removing turbo, helps speed up jobs that require removal.
To clean the intake spray it down real good with a good degreaser, royal purple or something like that then I used a pressure washer and went through every hole on the thing to get the junk out, remove the intake air temp sensor first and clean that up too as it will be totally soot covered.

Sounds good. One last question concerning the Turbo. What is best to use to clean it out? just some brake cleaner or is there something else that's recommended? Thank you for all your help Bob. I appreciate the he!! out of it right about now.

Turbo cleaning: DTS Articles - Turbocharger Reconditioning

Nice. Thank ya'll for all your help. I definitely appreciate it. Especially when I'm leaving in 4 weeks to move 1600 miles back home.