Vibration
 

I was driving my 05 250 6.0 down interstate and bounced going onto a bridge and the truck bounced so hard and didn't stop I thought I had a flat tire when I let off the gas and slowed down it smoothed out and I haven't took it on the interstate since. Any ideas of what could cause that?

Might be "death wobble"....Does it happen on every big bump or just this one time??

It happened once on interstate I was running about 85. Got right off interstate and havent been back on since just taking regular roads running about 60. Kind of scared to take it on interstate again til I figure out what it could be. What causes this death wobble?

Does it vibrate any other time? Just spit balling here but you may have dislodged some of your wheels weights so now your tires are out of balance.

Just bought the truck two weeks ago tires are bad and front end is a touch out of line.

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That was the only time it vibrated. Vibrated is an understatement though it beat me to death

Also is it lifted? A lot of times a run of the mill lift kit does not have the perfect geometry for the steering/driveline so your front end could need an alignment job

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Could have just been a bad patch of road too. There is a spot out here that was bad enough to completely turn my dirt bike sideways in the bed, right as my truck came down from the first bump and the suspension compressed, the second launched it back up, same with the 3rd and 4th

No not lifted but shook like I had a flat tire almost. Til I slowed down. I was going on a short bridge I dropped on the lip of bridge a nice steady stiff suspension bounce preceded thn holy crap I have a flat but I didn't. It was first day I had the truck

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Diesel daddy do you have an egr delete and tune on your truck

No delete because I'm in CA so I have to have the cooler "intact" for my biannual inspection. Mine is from BulletProof Diesel Solutions which is a factory EGR with all of the holes plugged and TIG welded shut. And yes I have an SCT

Dos the egr do any good for the 6.0 besides emissions

The 6.0L factory EGR setup is a ticking time bomb, the internals are small enough that any sediment floating around in the coolant will plug up the passages in the cooler (oil cooler has the same problem) and if the coolant can't flow, there are still 400-1000° exhaust gases coming in causing a flash boil which can easily lead to blown head gaskets. An engine gains absolutely nothing from pulling already burned fuel/soot and reintroducing it to the intake (good for emissions because it burns off even more of the bad stuff). My recommendation to you would be do a full EGR delete if you local/state laws allow (blocked cooler if you still have to do inspection). While the engine is torn down replace the oil cooler with a new one and add head studs, then add a coolant filtration system (to prevent future oil cooler clogging) from wherever you choose, there are a lot on the market now and I haven't heard anything bad about any of them as of yet, one of the least expensive components ($100-140 depending where you order it from) that will give you piece of mind and could save you a LOT of work down the road. If you are short on cash and not in a position to do all of this (about $4k worth of work) then at the VERY least put on a coolant filter and get some oil and coolant temp gauges and monitor the delta (I think anything over a +/- 10° difference you could be looking at a bad cooler). The most important thing to remember with these engines is to be meticulous on maintenance, change your fluids and filters at appropriate intervals and monitor as much as you can that way you can see a problem starting before it becomes serious and causes damage. Sorry for my rambling but I figure it will get you pointed in the right direction and set you off to a good start. :c: