Domino effect from HELL! FICM
 

Ok, so I figured out my IPR was bad out of the box! (Just my luck)
put a new one in and she fires up and runs great. A buddy and I take her for a test drive and put her through the paces. Everything is great. All gauges acceptable.

pull into the drive and park her. Figured I would let it idle for a while. Then all the sudden....
She just dies! We give each other that "RUT ROH RAGGY!" look.

Tried to fire her back up. She acts like she's gonna start and dies immediately after she fires up. No codes at all!

hmmm....

So, I figured I would test the FICM. I have the 7 pin. So I tested from the row of 4, top pin (closest to passenger side)
results: key on, 48v. cranking, 48v BUT... as soon as she fires it immediately drops to 22V!
Bad FICM
No problem, I pull the ficm and upen it up ready to solder resistors. But, one of my resistors marked "DALE R0075" is blown out.
So i looked online and found a supplier who has them. I have 8 being shipped 2nd day.
Supplier: Mouser electronics
direct url for part: 66ulrb1r0075flfslt Metal Foil Resistors - SMD | Mouser
Keep in mind when you do solder these in place, the max temp for soldering is about 250c for about 3 seconds! It is best to preheat them with 150C or so for around 45 seconds.
You gotta be fast and accurate!
Oh! they are 49 cents a piece.
I will let you know how it turns out for me!

Yeah I bought a roll of them last time, started just replacing any that look bad recently. They're pretty tough little buggers though. I've actually had some tombstone on me a couple times too. These FICM's are so poorly put together it's absurd. Glad you found your issue! I'm having issues with mine right now, issues as in it wont even start. Key on FICM voltage is 48 for about 1/4 of a second then drops to 36 and continues to slowly drop, after injectors stop buzzing voltage goes to 0.0 and stays there, there's an issue with power feeding the FICM, because I have several FICM's that work fine that do the same thing. Trying to find replacement FICM relays right now.:argh:

Yeah, I just hate to wait on parts! (I want it now!!!!)
you probably have Mdub707, make sure to check the 15a fuse in the relay box as well. Easy to over look. sounds like you have residual power until you hit the key then it drains out. Then trickles back in again.

I've checked every single fuse on the truck. Just went to the junkyard to get a different FICM relay, I seem to have FICM voltage across the board, but still no smoke when cranking, but my batteries are really weak now from cranking and running and running glow plugs and buzzing injectors.... ahhhh

Had to re-charge my batteries overnight twice already. And they aren't that old. Troubleshooting can be hell on them!

When you charged them did you leave them hooked up to the truck, or take them out and charge them by themselves? I'm thinking I should probably trickle charge them by themselves one at a time to be safe. Especially since I've got some sort of (at least what I think is) a weird electrical issue.

I took them out of the truck and charged them independantly. probably the weak batteries from all the cranking that i did that killed my FICM in the first place!:argh:

Ahhh don't beat yourself up over it. I think it would take quite a while on weak batteries to really damage a FICM, and it's never actually been "proven" it's just a thought, they seem to coincide with each other, weak batteries and a dying FICM usually happen around the same time. All FICM's will fail at some point, even the new ones, repair is the best way to go anyways.

While waiting for the resistors to show up, I found what sounds like a good deal.
Found a FICM from a totaled 2004 6.0 at a local salvage yard. $150.00. The truck was a sunday driver and only had 28k on it!
I know I would probably have to have it reflashed for my 03. But was thining on giving it a shot as is. What do you think?
Or at least sending it to say USAFICM.com and having it gone over and the 58v upgrade added.
I kinda figured that even at that around $350.00 total wasn't gonna be too bad for a spare "Working" FICM.

Any year FICM will work on any year 6.0, no programming needed. I'd buy it, solder it just like you did yours, and run it. That's a decent deal, I usually pay $100-$125 for untested FICM's. Chances are it's still good. Can you get any other parts off of it?