gauges
 

ok so as ive said before this is my first diesel its a 2005 f250 6.0 with about 150000 miles. Its getting an egr delete right now as im writing this also new glow plugs and harnesses. I want to put some gauges in it like a A pillar 3 pod my question is my mechanic who is also a good friend told me the most common starting gauges is the pyrometer the boost and the tranny temp so are these the gauges i should start with or are there other more important ones i should buy first. Ive seen some guys got bout 15 gauges but im just wanting to start with bout 3 then maybe max out with bout 5 total somtime down the road. And thanks in advance for the information.

Those are the three I bought when I first got this truck.

If I had to do it again, would I do it like that? Nope.

I'd get:

Fuel pressure
Engine oil temp
Engine coolant temp
pyro (if using a tuner)

and that's it to start with.

Or just get a pod monitor of some sort like the Edge CTS insight, and you can monitor a whole bunch of things at once.

I'm going to try a wireless blue tooth OBD deal soon, so I can use my smartphone. You can download the "torque" app, for $4.99, and buy the bluetooth connector for $100 or so, and watch anything your OBD port can read. Pretty slick.

And if you have a iPhone/iPad/iTouch, you can check out DashBoss. For a total of $300 you can watch a butt load of parameters including external sensors like EGT and Fuel psi.

Looks like the same kind of setup as the torque app, just for iphones. Why is it $300 though? How does it monitor fuel pressure, or EGT? Where are the add-ons for that, or is that included in the $300 price?

Isspro EV2-

Pyro, Boost, Trans temp and fuel pressure...

on a 6.0 coolant temp is a good one to watch as well.

does anybody know any goods or bads about the autometer z-series gauges?

I had them on my Powerstroke and they worked really good.

Sent from my dumb phone!

Do yourself a favor just go with the 4 pod pillar.

If I were to do it again, I wouldn't waste money on a boost gauge until I started pushing big numbers, the '05+ factory boost gauge on the Speedo works fine, granted it's not as accurate as an Auto Meter or ISSPRO since it isn't as fine of a reading but you can get pretty close on your readings with it +/- 2psi. Fuel pressure is a must, a quad A-pillar pod with EOT (Oil Temp), ECT (Coolant Temp), Fuel Press and Pyro. If you are planning to do a lot of towing then it would be who of you to get a Trans Temp as well. If you aren't interested in the whole cockpit look then go with a monitor computer such as the Edge Insight. Also remember that usually with gauges you get what you pay for...so if a Glow Shift EGT gauge is under $100 then guess what, you're getting under $100 worth of gauge, ISSPROs are $198, and it's a full $198 worth of gauge

trans temp is all but useless on a 5R110 anyways. I tell everyone to not bother unless you tow every day over 10k. They always seem to just run about 90* above outside air temp, no matter what. pyro definitely if you're running a tuner, and boost is kind of useless on an 05+ truck, since they have that factory. Or just listen to what the turbo is doing.

Joe, a coolant temp gauge is only useful in these if you have the oil temp gauge too, we need to monitor the difference between the two, that's what is telling us if the oil cooler is clogging or not, since that's it's sole duty is to regulate the temp between the two. Clogged oil coolers restrict coolant flow and are the root cause of most EGR cooler and headgasket failures, thus the importance to watch the two together. 15* is the "rule of thumb" temp difference where it's time to rebuild the oil cooler. Just FYI!


Exactly my thoughts right here. :c:

Eh I've never had a problem with glowshit gauges. But you do get what you pay for. Mines pretty accurate. Shot a laser temp gun where my prob +- 4 off

The DashBoss is $170 for their OBDII connector and is preprogrammed for any CAN supported ECM/PCM vehicle. I believe the Torque app needs to be programmed with the PID'S. The DashBoss can monitor 12 PID's on one screen (digital view) and can monitor 12 other PID's in the Dash view screens, that's 24 PID's with a swipe of the finger.

The other $130 of that $300 is to hook up external sensors (EGT, Fuel psi, or whatever psi,temp,volt) you want. It's $100 for the EGT box and probe and $30 for fuel psi. These external sensors can be monitored right on your iOS device.

Here is a review I did for another site (I can copy/paste for this site if you want). At the time of the review it was only a beta, but has since then been released to the public with great results.

Here is the review with pics and video.
http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/gen...ng-review.html


And here is how to hook up external sensors (temp, psi,volts).

http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/gen...-port-how.html


DashBoss will also let you hook up to a external monitor like a double din radio, so you will have your gauges shown on your radio or external monitor.

Pretty slick, but I wouldn't be caught dead with an iPhone... :w2:

I'd imagine you can do the same thing with Android, just each has their own name for it.

The last time I checked the Torque app forum, they were working on a way to add external sensors. I tried the Android platform, I just prefer iOS mobile devices. The Torque App looks great.

Even though I prefer analog gauges, digital monitors can support much more info.

Selecting a monitor solution comes down to personal preference and money.


Now only if someone could package the Autoenginuity software into a smartphone, then you would have everything in one little package! LOL!

That would be pretty bad ass.

I've always preferred the stand-alone gauges for sure, but if I can monitor a whole bunch of OBD stuff for ~$100, I might as well add that too.

I've contemplated selling all of my gauges and getting some sort of pod setup, just not sure I'm ready to do that.

Me to, I run 7 analog gauges and use the DashBoss at the same time. The Gryphon FICM tuner I have also is a monitor, but I don't care for the display, and using my laptop with AE is just too big!!

The team at DashBoss is working with Pioneer App2 radio right now so you can use the DashBoss app on the radio screen. When that is approved, I'll be ditching my OEM radio!! LOL!!

I'm in the same boat as you, 6 gauges in cab now, more sitting on the table waiting install, and I want the gryphon too.

Out of control!

I know I'm not ready, I prefer the look of the gauges rather than a module, I know where everything is and no sorting through menus.

Just bought a four pod pillar, gonna put in EOT, ECT, Pyro and Boost, but im planning on getting the above mirror pod with a Fuel Pressure and I was thinkin about a Voltage gauge for the FICM to keep an eye on that $500 failure waiting to happen, but im lost as how to hook that up yet. anyone know? any other ideas?

:humm:

Yeah that's simple. There's a write up floating around (I know bob has the link on hand) that shows how to test and repair, and I believe it shows the guy hooking up a voltage gauge too. I'm not sure I'd worry about it honestly though, when it starts going south you'll know and simple check with the multi-meter will verify I just think there are better options for a gauge that would be more useful.

I have ben looking for ages now trying to find a way to get gauges on a doublr din dash unit!!! This is good nees I like to have everything clean looking in my cab.
my cab looks like a cluster f%+ bomb wentt off gps cords, iphone cords, fm modulater for phone! Double din unit with everything all in one is my dream lol

Sent from my GT-S5830D using Tapatalk 2

One of the beta testers for DashBoss has his display showing on LCD rear view mirror!!!

Well ive heard that the FICM dies slowly, so I was figuring that if it starts to drop over time id know to get it fixed ... found two battery charge level gauges today too, dont know what to do with them yet, free stuff rules

Not really, mine was bad and didn't show any signs. Was 32v while running and no indication of it being bad while cranking or running.

I will probably put some sort of FICM gauge in mine, but I am swapping FICM's around so much and testing others it's quite useful for me, I don't think everyone needs that as a gauge though. I think I would put an HPOP gauge in before FICM voltage, but even that isn't a "needed" gauge, just nice to have. As far as the FICM dying slowly... maybe, but you'll know when it starts getting weak. You'll have rougher idles and smoke on first start up.

Yeah lately been noticing just a hint of smoke at startup, goes away pretty quick though

Tough to say, it really could be so many things.

Batteries
FICM
sticky injectors
due on oil/filter change?
fuel filter change?

Due for oil in 200 miles, already ready already, fuel filter was changed 3500 ago along with new cap, Ive been running DieselKleen religiously in it. So ima check batt and FICM today

Batteries should be load tested ideally, THEN test FICM. 90% of the time it's the FICM, but can't be sure unless you know batteries are good first.

Doing that at my buddies shop tonight, just called him.

Is there a way to tap into the stock boost gauge in the instrument panel and run a secondary ( and wayy easier to tell how much boost ) gauge in my pillar?

And what should fuel pressure be at normally?

You can T into the map line, quite simple. I just drilled and tapped mine into the intake elbow to take a more "stand alone" approach.

Fuel pressure before blue spring should be around 55psi. Ford's actual spec I believe is 50 + or - 5. They say below 45psi is doing damage, but I've yet to see proof. However, I'm not going to disagree either, if it's dropping below 40, something needs to be done. With the updated blue spring, most see idle pressure around 62-67psi. You should obviously test this while driving down the road with some WOT runs too, though if you're having issues like this, I'd suspect you'd see it fluctuating all the time or something.

63psi at idle and maxed out at WOT, i got a 100psi gauge ... i think either my gauge is wrong or i missed something ... ugh ... isnt the pressure supposed to drop about 10-15psi at WOT