2003 F250 6.0 nightmare
 

New hpop, fuel pump, injectors, lines to high pressure oil rail, icp, icp wiring but i still have hard starting. Ive wasted thousands trying to get this truck running but non of the mechanics can get it right. its been to ford and regular mechaninics. When its 65 outside it seems to start ok but when it warms up it wont start without ether. My batteries are over 3 years old and are leaking acid. could this be my problem? the last mechanic said the batteries were ok but hes questionable :]. any suggestions will help. im sick of wasting money just to be broke down and pay for another tow.

:dang::td:

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will it hurt my truck to start it with ether until its fixed?

Yes! Dont use ether more than you have to!! Have you googled hard starts on 6.0? Has the ficm been tested?

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

yes ive googled it alot. ill check on the ficm thats the first ive heard of it. thank you

hii am new to this website but i can tell you one thing about 2003 6.0 there not a very good truck to have i am not trying to put anyone down but ford rushed them out so fast that they never got a chance to fix all the flaws so i would go with a 2004 or later for a 6.0

And you sir dont know what your talking about.

You should have taken it to someone that knows what they are doing and I guarantee you, you wouldnt have had to buy all of those things. Do the hpops in the 03s go out, yes. Were all of your injectors bad, probably not. Someone who knew what they were doing could have hooked up a scanner and told you exactly what was wrong with it by monitoring ICP psi while cranking and they also could have looked at your FICM voltage which might be your problem. And no not all ford mechanics know what they are doing, my truck will NEVER go to the dealer to get fixed...:argh:

Today i will be replacing both batteries and testing the ficm. Im hopeful the batteries didn't burn it up. I've had this issue for over 6 months now and would love for my truck to run right. Of course ever mechanic ive taking it to says they know all about these trucks. There all full of BS.

After all this work it would suck to find out it was just the batteries and or a weak FICM.:argh: Simple test of the FICM should take 10 mins with someone else cranking the truck. Weak batteries and FICM will cause a no start/ hard start problem with these truck. Make sure the batteries are LOAD tested before testing your FICM. If one battery is bad replace BOTH.

Sometimes the ICP sensor (I think thats what its called) on the common rail will leak causing low compression on start up, which causes hard starts.. Or the plugs inside the fuel rail will go bad, you have to buy new ones, which are longer and that usually fixes it.

(Im probably way off but its something like that, I remember fixing a lot of these that had the same problem at startup when it is hot..

Is it doing something like it'll start up when its cold? then when it heats up, if you shut it off, it'll be hard to crank up again?

If so, check what I just typed, hopefully I helped.

This is probably an easy fix.

This is my NUMBER 1 GRIPE with 6.0's. 90% of the time it's not even a big deal, but it quickly turns into long downtimes and $ thousands in repair dollars all because it was never truly diagnosed properly. Absurd.

First step before doing anything else is take the batteries off, bring them somewhere to have them load tested. If they're leaking, they probably need replacement anyways eh?

After that, test the FICM, you'll need a spare set of hands, and about 15 minutes. It's easy, and should at least eliminate some issues.

90% of hard starts with 6.0's can be attributed to weak/poor batteries or a dying FICM. Seriously. :c:

Getting batteries replaced today. Found one bad for sure. I've already replaced icon and the fittings in the oil rail. I'm positive its the weak batteries and possibly the ficm. Hope its fixed today.
:rocking:

Weak battery's can kill ficms

Sent with a Droid RAZR in one hand and 14,000 volts in the other.

Hopefully mines not dead or weaken at all. I think ficm is $800 plus the $240 for batteries. Might as well call it a b.o.a.t. break out anorher thousand.

Nope, you can get them repaired for FAR less money bud! Batteries will be more expensive than a FICM repair. Glad you joined the forum yet? :c:

I think FICM's should never fall below 46 volts or something like that and yes, diesel engines run mainly off of compression and without the power from those two big batteries to turn that starter motor fast enough, you'll be a duck in the grass.. OR a duck in the water... (that doesn't sound right?)

You'll be stuck... Yeah, that sounds better.

The batteries run the FICM though, a TON of power is drained through that when you turn the key, listen closely and you'll hear it buzzing all 8 injectors, plus running the glow plugs, plus cranking the motor... it all adds up. However, even if your batteries are good enough to light the motor, a slightly weak battery will cause the FICM to not function properly, which causes poor fuel burn and delayed timing a bit. Makes it run like poo.

AGREED:c:

well:humm: is it fixed?:w2:

Ford sells both batteries for roughly $165 for both. I picked mine of at the local dealership for about that.
And Ficm repairs are alot cheaper. There is also an option for $500 that lets you replace the bottom half of the FICM for a do it yourself repair. Ill have to find the website for that in my last issue of Diesel Power Mag.

The 1/2 shell can be gotten from Ford, or International, International is WAY cheaper. However, that can only be done on a 4 pin FICM. No 1/2 shells for 7 pins.

Just looked up some numbers, part number for the International 1/2 shell is WAY cheaper. The part number is 5010598R92

From Ford it lists for $367.40 (at Tousley) P/N is 4C3Z12B599BARM There is also a $150 core from them it seems.

International is something like $135.78!!! I'm assuming still a $150 core too.

However, just be aware that the issues will likely arise again at some point, until it is actually opened up and soldered. :c:

Batteries tested perfect.still haven't done the ficm test yet

Where did you bring the batteries, or did you have your own load tester?

That's good, now on to the FICM!!!

I had the batteries tested at interstate battery. I'll be testing the ficm as soon as I'm off work today. Couple hours. I hope to find its bad so I can be done with these issues.
:scare2:

More often than not it is the FICM. The batteries really just need to be tested first so someone doesn't throw a bunch of money down on a new FICM only to find it was the batteries all along. It may not be either one though, but these are the most common points, we'll get you up and running good again!

Also just out of curiosity, what oil are you running and what oil filter? How often are your change intervals? Are all 8 injectors original?

I just tested the ficm. With ignition on its 48.0 and on start up its 47.9 to 48.2. Batteries tested perfect. I've been using rotela oil and fram filter. Changing it every 4500 then as the no start began I was changing at 3000.:scare2:

You tested it running too? The FICM should also be tested with a cold motor as well.

Have you tried pulling any codes yet?

ive fixed a ton of these first step is to see if you have at least 500 psi of high pressure oil if not u woNt start if you have a small internal oil leak it will still start but itll take a while and the colder it is out the better it wil start due to the thickness of the oil..... if you cant get a gauge or scanner pull your icp sensor out and put air to it with a compressor and a rubber tip blow nozzle and listen for your leak its usually a branch tube or the pump itself also put power and ground to your icp regulator while you have the air to it but not for more then 20sec at a time its really simple tho it dont sound it

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by the way if a ficm goes bad it will simulate a bad injector 9 times out of 10... and the 03 model does not buzz the injectors unless its been updated

i tested the truck on a cold motor. i did not test it running since it wont start i had a friend crank it for about ten seconds as i took the readings. the voltage never got below 47.9.

my oil pressure is 672 i have a new hpop, new icp, new icp wiring, and the new lines for the high pressure oil rail. the truck starts in the morning when it about 75 to 85 out first start of the day but i have to cycle the key about 5 times. but nomatter what i do it wont start later in the day when its hot out about 95 to 105 even if it sits four 10 hours. could it be the glow plugs? When i get the truck started it runs awesome no problems and plenty of power stock. No smoke and idles perfect.:argh::s:

oh and there is not codes to read. no egine light nothing to tell me anything. :scare2:

just because the idiot light aint on dont mean theres no codes, BUT you have to have a GOOD scanner to check it you cant just use elcheapo or the cheap one like one they use at autoclone, find someone that has a AE or a snapon and they have to know how too use it...

also check the wire going into the ipr. the FICM wires and ipr wires can get tangled together and pull the wire out of the ipr(happend to me)

It is possible the glow plugs are junk but they usually give u hell in the winter did you update the ficm????? In 2003 they were not programed to buzz the injectors

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Pull the fuel filter out that's in the frame rail and c if theres silver stuff that looks like paint chips

I have not updated the ficm but im the second owner I've had the truck fir 3 tears now with never-ending issues. I'm having the worst of luck and throwing money at it doesn't work. Everyone says take it to someone that knows what their doing. Hahahaha they all say they know but just bill and say I can't figure it out.
I'll check the wiring to the ipr
The fuel system is upgraded to the airdog 2. That was the first $1200 when the stock pump went out with a $300 tow Bill. Lmmfao

A few things, you say oil pressure is 670ish. Is that desired or actual?

Have you checked fuel pressure yet? You can get a cheap fuel pressure gauge from harbor freight, hook it up to the fuel bowl on top of the motor where the fuel filter is, run it out under the back of the hood up to the windshield and you can hold it down with the windshield wiper to see it. See what your fuel pressure is at.

I doubt bad glow plugs would prohibit it from starting once it got warmer... that's the opposite of what would happen. The glow plug systems on the 6.0's are pretty stout anyways.

When you're cranking it over and over and it's not starting, are you getting any smoke at all out the exhaust? What color?

Oil pressure is actually 670 ish. When im cranking it it hardly ever smokes but now an then ill get a little puff of light grey. If it was a fuel pressure issue wouldn't it run ruff or lack power? Once it started.i:s:

I've started my truck and had it idle smooth as silk... with the fuel pump unplugged. It just wouldn't run anywhere. It could be kicking intermittently. Tough to say.

Now, if you're telling us that you are not really seeing any smoke when cranking, this means the injectors are not firing.

How are you measuring ICP pressure? Scanner? You should check FICM SYNC.

If there is no smoke, it's either not building enough oil pressure to fire the injectors, or the FICM is not doing it's job, despite the good voltage readings.

Yes the last mechanic showed me on his snapon scanner the oil pressure. He said he could get any codes out of the truck. He basically wanted me to leave my truck there until he could figure it out. he already had it 2 weeks.

What does the ether do to make it start?

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I just was able to pull some codes p2617 and p123; thats no a typo that's what it read.

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The p2617 is crank position but i geuse yhat come when you crank it over a lot

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So if my small fuel filter on top of the motor is bad could that cause the problem? I pulled it out today and the truck started right up.

Don't use ether. It's a "fuel" source if you're having fuel issues. However, when the glow plugs are on you have a good chance of igniting it before anything is moving. Heard HORROR stories of blowing blocks apart and heads off. It's very dangerous and I would avoid it at all costs.

So if it starts with ether, or now it starts with the top filter removed... you may have a fuel delivery problem.

You're most likely right about the crankshaft position code, that and the camshaft code are thrown a lot falsely when trying to crank a truck a lot and it's not starting.

No smoke coming out of the exhaust also means no fuel.

I would put a fuel pressure gauge on and see where you're at, with the filters in. :c:

I will give it a try.

With the scanner the oil pressure is 670 is it possible thete is still a leak? The reason i ask is. When the truck is running i can shut it off and start it right back up but if i let it sit 5 minutes it won't start. I'm thinking the oil pressure is bleeding off somewhere. The scanner shows It's holding 10.8.

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10.8 when not running

If the truck isn't running or turning over it can't build oil pressure, so I wouldn't worry about that.

The 670 is actual ICP then? What's the desired ICP. We really need both of these numbers together. Your IPR % duty cycle will also tell us what is going on. The IPR is what actually regulates the pressure.