07 6.0 P2291 No Hot Start
 

My dads 07 F-250 6.0l recently went from a hard hot start to a no hot start. The truck starts a little hard cold, you have to crank on it a couple seconds, let off and then crank on it some more and it will start up within a couple seconds. Once running it is low on power and a little jerky for the first few minutes of driving. Once warm it runs great...i just don't start warm.

I used my Auto Enginuity to check codes and I get a P2291. I also used it to check some sensors while its is running warm in the driveway and cranking while warm.
Hot Idle:
-ICP Pressure: 575PSI
-ICP voltage: .87Volts
-IPR duty cycle: 23%
-FICM Main Power: 48.5 Volts
-FICM Synced

Hot Start(5-10 seconds of cranking and 175* ECT)
-ICP Pressure: 348PSI
-ICP voltage: .61Volts
-IPR duty cycle: 85%
-FICM Main Power: 47.5 Volts
-FICM Synced

I did an ICP air test and when I energize the IPR there is no change in air noise i just constantly hisses out of the crankcase fill tube. I've tried energizing it by commanding it with AE, back probing wire pin 2 on middle ECM connector, and hooking IPR directly to battery with a different connector, and there is still no change in air.

I changed the SCT fitting out since i know they are a common problem on them, but it didn't help. I'm thinking maybe the IPR might be going but I would like some guidance before I tell dad he needs to spend another 200 bucks on his truck.

Normally the IPR doesn't go up, what happens is the screen on the end becomes clogged or damaged and can be replaced/cleaned and IPR reinstalled. It sounds like you have a failed Dummy plug in the oil rail, very common, you can get a kit from Tousley ford that has new oil rail dummy plugs and stand pipes which can also leak, part #6E7Z-9A332-B AND IT IS $102. when you do the work replace the stand pipes first and then do dummy plugs, after you do dummy plugs pull the ICp sensor and the small plug at back of drivers side oil rail then fill the oil rails with oil through the ICP sensor hole, ou might need an old fashioned oil squirt can to do it right, this really cuts down on the cranking time to get it refired. You will also need a 10mm allen wrench to pull the original plugs and a 12mm allen wrench to install the new plugs.

my STC kit cam with a new IPR screen and my old one only one or two pieces of junk in it that kind of looked like small metal shavings. the truck has 113k on it by the way.

SCT fitting and oil rail plugs are most common problems when you have a hot no start, the new dummy plugs have a nylon or teflon backer for the oring which helps prevent oring failure

I would say the dummy plugs would be what you should go after. Pull both valve covers and air test it again. It should let you know for sure.

Does anyone got the international part numbers for these? if i get time to pull the valve covers off tomorrow i want to call the local international dealer and be sure they have the stand pipes and dumby plugs in stock.

Make sure you tell them it is an 07 VT365 not a ford, around here they won't sell you the part if they know it is a ford.

When you find out the International part number for the dummy plugs and/or stand pipes, can you post it(them) here?

So you tried air testing it just by commanding the IPR with the AE software? That's part of your problem right there. AE can only command the IPR 85% closed, not 100% closed. You need to buy a spare IPR pigtail and hook 12V switched source to it to fully close it, then air test.

Still sounds like a high pressure oil leak, or possibly even a low pressure at this point.

When cranking are you getting smoke out of the exhaust?

If no smoke, when you're cranking the truck, can you watch the low oil pressure gauge on the dash come up? If it does, it's a high pressure oil leak, if it doesn't, it's a bad low pressure oil problem (usually the pump itself).

If it's a high pressure problem, you can see this with AE, when you're cranking, monitor ICP desired, ICP actual, and IPR duty cycle and report back with your findings.

I would replace the STC fitting (if not already done), the standpipes/dummyplugs, and you MAY need an HPOP depending on what we find from your readings. If you don't need an HPOP, just replace the screen and o-ring on the IPR valve, if you do need an HPOP, get a new IPR.

Mdub I've used a pigtail to wire the ipr direct to battery and it still dumps to crank case. can hear it the best it loudly though crankcase filler and lightly though CCV. no there is no smoke while cranking. there is a little white smoke on a cold start but it goes away. STC has been replace as that was the most notorious reason for this. Ill post back new results on cranking PSIs when i get back from work.

That's right where the dummy plugs are. I'd order the dummy plug/stand pipe kit, it's like $110 or something. Those are really the only other leak points, other than injectors and if an injector was leaking high pressure oil I don't think it'd be running good at all.

Ordered stand pipes and plugs from Tousley yesterday as the international dealer wanted 192 for them. hopefully they will be here for the weekends so I can at least get the passenger side done.

Yeah just re-read your findings and your ICP reading at hot idle is low. It needs a min of 525psi to even start. Definitely sounds like a small high pressure oil leak to me. :c:

Got the passenger side changed today. the lower o-ring on the dummy plug was toast. Hopefully will get to do the drivers side tomorrow or will at least get start it.

The drivers side is the easy side, glad you found the problem, let us know it it starts afterword.

Glad to hear the hard one is done. stand pipe came out in two pieces. which pissed my off when it happened because I didn't want to take the oil rail off. but now i know it has to go in as two peices and the oil rail has to of to get it in there.

You can put them back in as one if you have the room

That Evap box was completely in the way to do that.

Yeah I know the pass side is too tight but the drivers side might be possible, worth a try to save you some time,

thanks y'all! started her up last night an ran it to get the air out of oil rail. ran it around today and then shut it of and it started back up on the second crank. now if i can track down the crappy cold start issues....maybe time to try some rev-x. already using VPBE 5w-40.

Great to hear! How old are your batteries? I'd recommend having them load tested first. You'd be surprised how poor it will make these trucks run with weak batts. Then test your FICM. Those two areas (batts/FICM) are the resultant of probably 90% of cold start issues with 6.0's. :c:

One was replaced about 6 months ago and the other was about a year ago. Yes I know they should be changed as a pair, but I can't get my dad to listen to me...this is his truck. The older battery was load tested when the newer one was put in and it tested good. The FICM sits at 47.5-48 volts KOEO, Cranking, and KOER.

Yeah even when they test good, chances are that older one will die first and it will just bring the new one down with it.

Anyways, glad to hear it's going good now, and thanks for posting back to let us know too, so many people never tell us anything after.:c:

Another update. Dad started the truck up this morning i would say it was 40ish degrees out and he said it started right up no cycling of the key just wait for the GP light to go out and couple seconds it started. so i had to go out and check it. its been sitting for the last four hours and its 55 degrees out and it started up on the second crank. i would say that's good. I guess when i started the truck up yesterday there must have been air in the rails still.

It can take a while to get the air out, normally 40 miles of various driving should get it out.

Well i diffidently didn't drive 40 miles when i was running it Saturday. but it probably got 10 miles or more of hard driving between Saturday and Sunday.