f250 6.0 oil in intake pipes
 

I have a 2003 F250 Powerstroke. We are changing the injectors and when we pulled the air intake and the pipe on the other side leading up to the turbo we found oil in both. Does anyone know what would cause this and how to fix it.

Moved to the correct forum...

However some oil in the IC pipes is normal from the Crank Case Vent and its location.

Our 6.0L has that issue its due to a bad seal in the turbo...

CCV mod will help stop the oil in the intake.

No, it is not a bad seal, when you pulled the air intake off there was a hose that attached to the top of the valve cover, it is basically the PCV valve for a diesel, it is a EPA thing so instead of dumping oil and fumes to the atmosphere it is taken into the intake system and burned in the cylindes, you can get a oil/air seperator from Jegs and replumb it so ou don't get the oil in intake anymore, some guys run a long tube from the valve cover towards back of the truck but this is not the best thing to dobecause the air has to be forced out of tube but when you put a vaccum on the tube it helps seal the rings better in the motor like it was desighned to do.

Thanks for the reply guys. I was told by my mechanic/step dad turns out I have a burnt piston and somehow oil is getting into the turbo. He figured this out by taking the oil cap off and turning the engine over. Every time the engine missed we got blow by coming out of the valve cover. Looks like I will be rebuilding the engine. And changing the O rings in the turbo just to be safe. Any suggestions on how to proceed or if this could be a different prob entirely?

By the way, other symptoms are: Hard starting, White smoke, Rough Idle, Misfire, and now that we changed the injectors it stalls out after about ten miles and won't start until it has sat for a while. When this happens we can see oil dripping under the truck. (Thats how we found out the turbo was filling with oil)

Kind of doubt you burnt a piston, either loose injector or loose glowplug could cause the same thing, make sure you tighten the injector hold downs to 25ftlbs plus a little umph for good measure. the oil leak on the back is most likely a bad ICP sensor wich will leak oil when they go bad, also will cause it to stall out. I had a dead miss on my truck and I was able to repair the injector, 2nd one I did, you could also have a high presure oil leak, it could be the snap to connect fittings on the oil rails, did you remove them all the way when you did injectors or just move them out of the way? If you can have it scanned it would tell you if the icp sensor was bad.

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Also, every single 6.0 that came off the line will have oil in the turbo tubes unless it was modified to eliminate it.

I have to agree with bob. Unless you are running magor mods and high egt's I duobt you burnt up a piston. And the ccv canister mod was the #1 favorite mod ive done to my truck to date. Although you will be suprised by the ammout of oil in it after 5k miles.

You seriously need to get that thing on a scanner with someone who knows diesels, whoever you're dealing with now, clearly does not. Bob hit the nail on the head.

I've had it on a scanner and the only codes we got back were for a misfire on cylinder 1 and 2 and a bad brake switch. After replacing everything we are still getting misfire on two with the scanner, only now it's stalling after ten miles. Before I could drive it all day and it would just smoke like crazy. And you are right he does not know diesels. He has been a transmission mechanic for 26 years. However, he called a friend for advice on it that works for ford strictly on their diesels, according to him if you get blow-by exactly when it misses thats a bad piston

@Bob - When we removed the oil rails we only took the bolts out and moved it out of the way. The ICP sensor was replaced about two years ago and we haven't got a code for it. So your saying the blow-by could be caused by a loose injector or glow-plug?

@Josh - Yea the only major mod done was the 8 inch suspension lift. I haven't really done any mods to the engine. I was thinking about doing the CCV canister mod. Do you have a link on a good way to do it?

Thanks again everyone for the replies

Oh yea, and I'm getting about 8mpg

A loose injector or glowplug could cause a misfire because they both are used to seal the combustion chamber. I can't believe none of us have mentioned this yet but did you test the FICM yet, there is a "sticky" at the top of the Ford section on how to do this, being an 03 you are most likely going to have the 7 screw FICm. My truck would smoke out the neighborhood on start up and it didn't matter how warm it was outside, would have a misfire until warm and then after a couple months turned into a dead miss all the time, pulled all the injectors on drivers side and found #6 injector had a nut come off the mag cups that fire the injector, I was able to clean it up, put locktite on it, new orings on the 4 injectors, and also did the upgraded fuel spring sinse it was in the garage and now it fire right up, no smoke and starts stronge than it has in a long time.

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Forgot to add this, you can unplug the ICP to see if it bad, just unplug it and start it up to see if it makes a change, it goes into a safe mode to make sure motor has enough fuel to get you home, see what happens.

Your buddy's "buddy" who is a ford diesel tech, doesn't sound like he knows what he's talking about either. I've all but lost faith in anyone with the "ford certification" when it comes to diesels. They don't seem to know squat, for the most part.

When I say it needs to be put on a scanner, I mean a real scanner, not a code reader. We need to monitor some things. Do you have access to something like this? There is something really wrong, and I'm 99% sure it's not a "bad" piston.

Follow Bob's advice. I'd have a cylinder contribution test run.

We could use some more info about the work done, when it was done, when the problems started etc. Did these problems arise right after the work was done?

Ok I'll start from the beginning.

Bought the truck 2 months ago. about a week after buying it it started blowing white smoke. It hard starts, has absolutely no power in between 0 to about 1500 rpm (I could floor it and it won't move), rough idle, and gets about 8 mpg.

This weekend we hooked it up to the $4000 snap on scanner we have (if I should be using a diff scanner let me know) and we got misfire on cylinder 1 and 2 and a bad cam position sensor and a bad break switch. We changed the cam position sensor and it fixed the misfire on cylinder one. We pulled cylinder two injector and found the O ring was cut. We replaced the O rings and put the injector from cylinder one in cylinder two and vice versa to see if the misfire moved over to cylinder one confirming a bad injector. The misfire was still in cylinder two. We cleared the codes and drove it down the road to see if they came back and it stalled after ten miles and was dripping oil (only happens when it stalls). Got it towed back home and called our friend that works for ford. After telling him all of this he said (once again) "pull off the oil cap and turn it over. If you get blow-by right when it misses you have a bad piston. There is and small wire on the passenger side under the hood the if you unplug and touch to the positive on the battery it will turn the engine over but not let it start." We did this and had blow by everytime exactly when it missed. And that's the whole story.

That might be your problem, if you had a bad oring on one injector you must replace the orings on all injectors on that side/at least/ what happens is the combustion presure will travel through the fuel rail/which is a passage through the heads, and it can blow out the orings for other cylinders. this was probably caused by the injector clamp coming loose, that is why you don't use ford's spec of 24ft-lbs, I use 25ft-lbs plus a little more to make sure they are tight, it almost impossible to narrow down exactly which cylinder has a true problem untill all the orings are replaced. It would more likely be a hurt valve than a piston by the way.

Thanks Bob! That's deff good to know. We only replaced the O rings on one and two. I'll be replacing all the O rings next then. It may be a few days before I can get to it but I'll post an update when I do.

sounds good, yeah when one lets loose it can be a pain to find out what others have been hurt, you basically have combution presure going through your fuel rail and the orings can fail at 75psi, the combustion presure is alot higher than that, even the static compression ration is over 200psi.

I agree with Bob, highly doubt you have a piston problem. You can get blow-by a few other ways. Start with replacing those o-rings and let us know what happens. :c: