I had problems with my high pressure fuel valve in oct we changed it ran great. My guy didnt change oil so valve got plugged up again. Oil change and new filters it ran fine. last week i had an injector changed and two days later i drove it and stoppped wouldnt start. i sat for a bit then it fired up. no problems till this weekend i drove for an hour parked and shut off no start. had towed to house i pulled turbo and changed high pressure valve no start still. Im getting a scan tool tonight. Im going to pull valve and crak to see if oil is flowing. any ideas on what to check. This thing is getting to me.

 

Typically a no start when hot condition is a high pressure oil leak. The 05's were notorious for the STC (snap to connect) fitting on the HPOP under the turbo. If you dig in to do the STC fitting (upgraded kit available from Ford) I'd also throw in the upgraded stand pipes and dummy plugs. I've posted both the P/N's for these kits in the last week in the threads below! Depending what you get to scan, you can monitor ICP desired and ICP actual to see if you have a leak, or you can hook a 12V source to the IPR valve, close it, and hook shop air up to the high pressure oil system and listen for leaks.

Welcome to DB!

 

Ok so we scanned it and found nothing out. No easy find have base pressure. So i took out pump and changed stc fitting after we air tested> heard a hiss. With pump out i didnt see any metal. I did think oil was shinny. new stc and pump bolted down cranked it twice and she started. Cover back in and starts up easy. Ran it for 300 miles the last 2 days. Then with no warning it died no smoke and wont start again let sit all day. Had to be pulled by a HEMI into my job site im at my breaking point. Whats my next step? hpop or oil sensor or crank sensor or major rebuild. I ve spent way to much on it to give up now only 167000miles Four injectors a new harness, stc, new high pressure fuel reg, other thing that have slipped my mind nothing to due with it not starting. Let me know or call me 978-866-4049 names james im not sure if i just want it towed to ford or if my guy can fix it. Thanks alot.

 

Typically just throwing parts at it wont fix the issue, this will usually just lead to further frustration.

You scanned it with a real scanner, or you put a code reader on it? No easy find have base pressure? What does that mean? Did you monitor ICP desired and ICP actual, that would have told you if you had a high pressure leak. Hooking air up you will always hear a hiss if you didn't put a 12V source on the IPR, you're gonna hear air going right out the IPR.

Since it's died again, are you getting any smoke while cranking? Your next step? Probably none of the sensors you just mentioned, why do you think it would be one of them? Are you getting codes for those? You can't just throw parts at it and expect it to work.

Diagnose, verify, repair. I can see why you've spent so much, throwing parts is a good way to do so!

lets take a step back and look at this logically. Scan for codes. let me know if you have smoke coming out of the exhaust when cranking or not. Your new injectors and harness, why were those replaced? My guess is you have FICM issues and half of the stuff you've replaced wasn't even needed.

We can get this resolved.

I need to know these things next time you post:

ICP desired vs. ICP actual, and IPR duty cycle while cranking

Are you getting smoke while cranking?

Test the FICM voltage, you can find the test procedure at the top of the 6.0 page.

 

Im getting the info off scanner it was scanned with a matco scanner the guy in a mechanic so its not a 100.00 tool. No smoke. Ill have the shop take a look at ficm and check it. I had to send it into a guy i know cant run a company with a limping truck. let me know of any more ideas on what it could be.

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The scanner read O actual and desired around 900 ipr duty cycle around 35 then jumped to 85.

 

Definitely a high pressure oil leak. I'll bet it's the High pressure oil pump. The truck is asking for the pump to make 900psi (only needs 525psi to fire), and your actual is 0 because nothing is being pumped... the IPR duty cycle will keep rising up to a max of 85% trying to get more oil going, but if the pump isn't running, then that wont help.

I would first try and test low pressure oil... as it's cranking, if you're not getting smoke this tells us the injectors aren't even moving. My gut says high pressure oil pump is shot, but of course if the low pressure oil is shot, and not feeding oil to the high pressure you can't build pressure either. When you're cranking, (or your guy) have him check and see if the oil pressure gauge on the truck is going up, if it goes up, you've got low pressure oil and no high pressure.

I would replace the high pressure oil pump, the dummy plugs/stand pipes and the updated STC fitting if it hasn't been done already, let me know if you need the P/N's.

 

Its at shop now wont be torn down till next week but ill post what he finds. Cant wait to get it back with no worries. Im having hp oil system rebuilt new pump and any o rings and tubes egr delete and lets hope thats all for this year. should i have them put a tuner in while its in? not looking for power just fuel mileage. I travel two plus hours to some jobs and fuel is around 4.18 a gallon. So thats easy three hundred a week in just fuel. Any ideas on how to get a bit better than 380 miles out of 28 gallons 12 to 14 per gallon now or just get a prius.

 

I'll tell you what was told to me on the first powerstroke forum I ever signed up on, and I should have listened...

"Never mod for fuel mileage. Mod for power, and if you get some extra MPG's, be very happy"

Now with that said, I bought a tuner with the hopes of "2-4mpg increase!"... yeah right. Could you gain mileage? Probably. Will you? Probably not. It's a catch-22. The hottest tunes available (via custom tuning with an SCT), offer the best mileage, but only if you can keep your foot out of it. Once you've gone WOT on an x-race tune or something similar, the smile is hard to wipe away, and WOT runs become more addictive than crack.

You start with a small tune, then it's not enough, then you're into the hot tunes, then your headgaskets are blown, now you're putting ARP studs in... it just keeps going.

If you want to do a tuner, you can do that yourself at any time, no need to have your guy do it. Very simple. You get tunes via email, load them from you computer to your SCT, then from the SCT to the truck, very simple. We can help you with that too.

I say get your oil issue resolved FIRST. Once you've got that squared away and know there are no more issues with the truck, then we can talk tuners.

Your mileage isn't really out of this world. I get between 13 and 15mpg. 29 gallon tank btw. You're probalby not recording fuel mileage correctly anyways (if you are, my apologies), most people don't realize that when the pump clicks off the tank isn't anywhere near full. The only true way to record mileage is to keep filling... keep filling and filling and filling, very slowly to avoid bubbles. Stop once you see fuel resting in the fuel filler neck. That's the ONLY way to get it to the same spot every time. If you're just filling til it clicks off, your fuel amount in the tank is different every time.

 

EXACTLY

 

I put twenty four gallons every time i stop a truck stop and i know she wont go much more than 340 miles till the light is on. Good to know i have 29 gallons that extra gallon may make a diffrence one day. So i know i have five gallons when light comes on. I fill it till it almost spills out so i know its full. I live in Vermont fuel is hard to come buy a a cheap price. What type of power are we talking out of this tuning? I pull a five thousand pound trailer through mtns weekly id like to not even know its there. Sounds like i need to get it tuned after i get i back. Do you know what size tire i can squeeze under it stock? What tires are good for a lot of miles? I seem to get a year and a half if lucky.