06 6.0 hot no start
 

Well I've decided to start wrking on my truck myself. I ve lost faith in dealership an local diesel mechanics. The dealership mostly customer service aspect an high prices with little results. An I brought it to two local diesel mechanics that were supposed to be masters. Well my truck is barely running. The history is misolanous injectors egr cooler twice fuel pressure regulators all dealership wrk. Then I died one day going down the road ipr was supposed to be replaced with new one I guess it wasn't but ran for awhile. Then a new fuel pump was put in which was supposed to fix hot no start. Well it didn't. Then it wouldn't start agin had towed to another guy. He replaced ipr new starter n two orings above injectors an removed exhaust which got it started but runs rough all the time won't start when cold out 30 degrees needs to be plugged in to start at 30 will start at lower temps if icp is unplugged. Anyway I'm fed up with all these people n am going to start wrking on it myself I plan on getting autoingenuity with ford bundle. I am mechanically inclined I've rebuilt the engines in my loader an back hoe but they have no big electronic controlled stuff like this.
My question is where to start on this also I was wondering if I should do egr delete kit while I'm in there. I would like to fix all possible problems n be set for this season for wrk

Where in upstate NY are ya bud, I can hook it up to a scanner for you this weekend or next if you're close enough. I've got AE and a PPE scanner too.

Hot no start is almost always a high pressure oil leak. Best bet is to scan it and watch ICP desired vs. ICP actual, as well as IPR duty cycle. That should at least let us know what is going on.

Have you tried scanning for any possible codes yet?

How many miles on the truck? How is it primarily used?

I'm located in queensbury by lake george

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I know it's throwing codes for glow plug two an injector number six

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I know it's throwing codes for injector number 6 n glow plug two. Supposedly everything else is in range

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It has 117,000 on it an it's dually dump so it's hauling or towing most of time.

My truck would start be slow as a dog and when it warmed up if i turned it off it wouldnt restart I replaced both batteries, icp, hpop, and ipr filter screen haven't had the problem since dont know if that applies to you though. I'd go to the dealer and get a diagnostics on it tell them that you will be doing the work your self so they arent under the impression that they will be able to milk you. I don't know where you live exactly but here in california I've never had a problem when it comes to the dealer diagnosing my trucks/cars

Yea havnt had much luck with dealership here. N service reps n manger are ...... The tech isn't bad but u don't deal with him directly

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So I've been unplugging the icp when I start truck up in mornings lately an it starts easy almost like it should. With the icp plugged in I can crank an crank an won't start if it's cold most times

Bad ICP sensor? Typically if you unplug it and it fires... it's the sensor.

You can check ICP voltage with a scanner too to see what it's doing during cranking.

Next week I should have the cash to get the auto inginety software. That's kinda what I've been thinking. But thinking is usally start of my problems. Seems like if it was icp that woulda been easy for the last guy to figure out. I guess I'll have to wait till I get that software. What my thoughts is is to rebuild hpop replace all o rings in the heads replace #6 injector n add egr delete kit. Software will tell Alot if there's something else. If this dosnt seem like good plan let me know. I would like to get the system close to new as I can. I just can't afford the down time I had last year prolly a total of three months all together.

Your plan sounds good man. Might be worth rebuilding the oil cooler too if you're in that far. It's ~$231 from Tousley Ford. It will also come with the new HPOP screen too. Coolant filter would also be a good item to add to the list as well as a full coolant system flush. :c:

I hear you on the downtime brother. Mine spent 2 months at a dealer lot this summer with very little work being accomplished. I'm so glad to be out of warranty it's not even funny. Should have just done the work myself from the beginning.

Where is coolant filter on that? It's defintly flushed. The first non dealer mech " I didn't leave grease rag in engine that took out wires to fan broke a peice off that flung into radiator cause small leak four hrs after u left my shop" that caused for bigger crack that I replaced radiator an also belt tentsioner which magically wore out shortly after new radiator. N then guy that was wrking for me was helping line shroud around radiator put a screw driver through brand new radiator. So fluid has been replaced three times since sept. I've heard about that tousley ford. I call them? Any recommendations on egr delete?

There isn't a coolant filter at all, you'd have to buy one and install it. Dieselsite.com has them and so does Sinister/MKM. Same thing, same price, different colors. 20 minute install, and they're ~$130.

That's still not a coolant flush. I would run something like Restore through it with distilled water, it will remove the silicates in there, not just a drain and refill.

You can call Tousley or order right online if you have the P/N's.:c:

When you get your AE and when you've collected some data let me know. I have an AE and I can give you some example data from a truck that runs good....mine. At least it doesn't have a Warm Start Hot issue any more, now that I've removed the STC fitting and put new standpipes and Dummy plugs in.
I'm just a little less of a novice that you are at using it. It helped me find out my FICM voltage, my EOT's and ECT's and also gave me my ICP readings. On the ICP readings, I installed a mechanical pressure gauge in place of the ICP to get a sanity check on it, but now I trust the AE readings, especially since the truck runs so good now after the repairs. A lot of other guys on the forum will also give you some numbers for comparison.
Good Luck.

I have a 2006 f-350 4x4
I cap'd off the erg ,I continiously changing injecters,I only use exxon diesil because of low sulpher, can anyone tell me which is better to use with the feul?
When my truck sits for 5 or more hours it starts right up but has to warm up for 5 mins or more but when its warm its good.

Well my as should be here Monday or Tuesday. So does the software give the hauled it's supposed to have or just the values it has at that time. I would imagine most people are like me n as soon as it's all loaded on computer I am going to wanna plug it into truck. So what am I in for?

It will just give you the values it has at that time, not a big deal really, you can find most of what it "needs" to be right here. It's pretty straight forward. I have found that you need to connect all of the cables in a certain order. Connect the OBD plug to the OBD port first, then connect the USB cable to the OBD plug, then connect that to the labtop last.

K I'll try that when I get it. Where an what should I be looking for the info on what it's supposed to be.

I would start by checking out these three items at the same time:

ICP actual
ICP desired
IPR duty cycle.

ICP desired is what the truck would "like" to see for injection control pressure. The "actual" is what the truck is really doing. So if the two of these are different, then there is an issue somewhere. Typically if desired is higher than actual, there is some sort of a high pressure oil leak. The truck needs something like 525psi to fire. At WOT, it should be around 4000psi. You should try and drive to test this out. IPR duty cycle is what the actual IPR valve is doing, if the duty cycle is very high, chances are it's trying to overcome a high pressure oil leak as well.

Typically they'll start when they're cold because the oil is cold and very viscous, making it easier to fire the injectors. As it heats up and thins out, it can now leak out of areas easier, making it hard to start when warm.

the Dog - start a new thread and give us some more details, why are you continuously changing injectors? Fuel is only 1/2 the problem with injectors, oil is the other half. Fuel pressure is key, as well as good oil and oil filters for long injector life. :c:

Mine started to throw injector codes like hell when my STC O-ring started to leak. It was bleeding down the HPOP over night letting air in the injectors causing the code.

60 bucks for the kit, 4 hours later and no more problems.

I'm leaning toward the oil rail plugs, think 06 was the worst year for them, also one of the easiest things to fix.. classic problem of the Hot No Start for the 06

STC fitting is pretty much guaranteed to go out on them at some point too. Why do you say 06 was the worst for the plugs? I thought they all had the same until the updated kit came out? Just wondering if you knew more about this?

Either way, you'd be a fool to dive in and not replace the STC fitting AND the updated dummy plugs/oil rails at that point. I have all of this stuff waiting to go on mine when I get to tear in for gaskets.:pca1:

Interested to see what the OP finds though.

I read it somewhere, they had a list of the most common problems with the 6.0 by year, 05 is the only year with the bad SCT fitting, it was changed for 06 and up and 03-04 had different pump, 06 had the most notorious oil rail plug issues, 03-06 had turbo issues because of no oil return groove in turbo, 07 has it, helps keep sut from forming in oil system in turbo

Yeah I read all that in dieselpowermag, about 1/2 of it was believable. My 06 definitely has the old style STC fitting. I'm thinking that was a mid year 06 change over, like around the time they put the 20mm heads on.

As for HPOP's I have different part numbers for:
03/04
Late 04
05-07, so that would be at least 3 different pumps

Now the E-series Ford P/N is the same as the 05-07 Ford P/N, but each one has a different international P/N.

I think the oil rail plugs were the same in most of them, but not positive. It was a fix that was put out in a kit, I'm not sure it ever came on any of the trucks.

As for the turbo... we all know exactly what causes issues on these... long periods of no use, long idle times, and driving it like a grandma.

There are three different p/n's.... I don't see any of them lasting any longer than the others though. Ford even changed the strategies on the trucks to cycle the vanes at idle, mine does it.

No software today yet

Bobfbigman,

I can tell you from experience that Ford did not remedy the STC fitting issue on all 06's.
Mine was definitely sloppy when I pulled it out. Also, I would never tear into one of these things without resolving the STC fitting issue.

If I ever buy another 05-07, the first thing I will do is remove the STC fitting.

Fixed!

Hey Bustednuckles, what is the build date of your truck? Mdubb seems to think they changed it midyear in 06, maybe we can narrow down which ones have the bad SCT fittings for future diagnosis. Thanks

I think my build date is 07/05.

In the upper left of the door post sticker it says 'Date: 07/05'.

The truck is an 06 year model which I bought in June of 2006.

I think mine was 11/05 build date, I'll have to check. I'm not sure exactly when it was changed, just an educated guess.

*EDIT*

Ok, did some digging around... turns out there were two revisions to the STC fitting issue. The first "fix" was a metal bracket, but I guess it didn't work very well cause they got rid of it quick, and came out with the "new" kit we all talk about now. This newest kit didn't come out until 07, so only the 08+ econolines with the 6.0 probably got it. Doesn't sound like any of the trucks got the newest kit. The 07 trucks and econolines probably had the bracket deal. Here's some info/pics on the bracket setup: http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/articl...icle-06-10.php Note, the part numbers in this article are no longer good, they were for the bracket deal.

The newest kit with P/N's can be found here: http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/articl...icle-07-08.php

Though you'll notice the P/N in there ends with a -E, and I've just read about guys ordering them with a -F on the end, so it seems like it keeps getting changed/updated for some reason. Now I'm interested to see which one I have on my table at home...

So mine was built 12/05.

Mdub707,

That's the type of fitting I installed last summer.
I installed dummy plugs and stand-pipes at the same time, so I'm not absolutely certain where my high pressure leak was.
But it runs great now, and I will never have to worry about the STC fitting again.
If I have another high pressure leak, I'm not going to pull the intake manifold.
The dummy plugs and stand-pipes I installed have the white plastic backer next to the o-rings.
So, my next high pressure leak is probably going to be 1 of the injector seals. By the time that happens I'll probably need new injectors anyway. I currently have 87,000 miles and it's running really good. With all the work I did on it last summer I'm hoping for another 87,000 trouble free miles.

I hear that man, I've got the new STC fitting, and updated dummy plugs and stand pipes on my kitchen table. My table is basically a parts counter right now...

My soft ware is finally Here I'll go pick it up later it'll be tommrow before I get to use it

Okay so software is here I got codes for po276 an po672. Where do I go now

First code is #6 injector low
second code is #2 glowplug failure.

The software told me what the codes were. I wanna check icp ipr etc...