04 6.0L gutless until up to temp
 

Hey guys I'm new to the site. Need a little help. First 6.0 I've had and starts up fine but will barely move until warmed up??? It's throwing 2 codes (p0403 &p0405) after warmed up to temp it runs like a champ and all temps are fine... Anyone got some info for me please???

whats the status of your EGR??? (delete, stock, ect.)

those are both EGR codes

I just bought the truck yesterday... Not sure how to tell if it has a delete...Has edge evolution programmer

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

I just bought the truck yesterday... Not sure how to tell if it has a delete...Has edge evolution programmer, cold air intake and cat back exhaust... That's all I know about it.

Welcome to the site! :c:

Let's start here:
https://www.dieselbombers.com/ford-p...questions.html

I understand you probably don't know the full history, but any info you can give will help us. Your two codes are both EGR function codes.

Ok well I took a look and it has a sinister cap were the egr was... So I'm guessing it has a delete kit... 2004 f350srw 6.0l 147,000 miles sinister delete kit edge evolution programmer cold air intake.
Eot 185-190 ect 185-192

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

lacks power
my 2006 psd when its not warmed up stumbles and acts like its missing. lacks power too. when the engine warns up this all goes away. ive had it to 2 ford dealers and both have told me nothing is wrong with it....it doesnt matter if its cold or warm out either

This is exactly what my truck is doing... Except I have a 2004.
So I'm going to buy some rev-x and see if that fixes it.
And I was thinking its only throwing the egr codes bc of the delete and since there is no egr...
Hope it works

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

how can i tell if it has a oil cooler delete? and the kam code came up on my edge???

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

when it starts it blows white smoke and it smells like oil and fuel, not the sweet smell of coolant.

Sticky injectors likely... I would test the FICM.

Rev-x is not a fix for anything. Does it work? Yes, it works very well, but it's essentially a "cover up" for a problem.

Your EGR codes are likely just soft codes due to the delete, not an issue.

thanks alot ill try to do it tomorrow!!! the sticky injectors wouldnt throw a code? does my edge evolution read all the codes on the truck or do i have to have the dealer scan it?

Typically no you wont get a code for an injector unless it's a hard fail. Sticky one's typically don't show crap. A dealer's scanner (they use IDS), or even autoenginuity could POSSIBLY pick it up in a cylinder contribution test, but even then it's difficult because they will usually clear up as the truck warms up.

the Edge will read basic codes, but can't really "scan" like a diagnostic's tool. I typically recommend AutoEnginuity with the enhanced Ford bundle for our trucks for the DIY guy. It's ~$350, but you will need a labtop to run it.

Ok still doing the roughy start... I tested the ficm today and I got 47.5-48 koeo, and 48 for the other 2... So ficm is good... So it would be bad injector/injectors or bad glow plug/plugs??? Did all the maintenance since I didn't know what was done when I bought it. When I get the rev-x and put it in and it straightens out will that tell me injectors? Any suggestions??? Thanks again guys for your help and more to come!!!!

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

And I also want to tear the turbo apart and clean it since I don't know how long it sat at the dealer... What gaskets do I need if any are needed?

you can get a turbo hardware kit that has the oil supply line gasket which the the only gasket that you need, while you are there get the updated oil drain tube and oil supply line, it helps lube the turbo better

Very interested in how this turns out - my 06 6.0 PSD is doing the same rough start thing and the FICM tests great.

It is stock - Just Pulled the EGR valve and cleaned that and added a coolant filter. As soon as I can put the $$ together I want to do an EGR cooler upgrade.

Guys, just so you're aware, even a FICM testing at 48V under all conditions can still be bad.

I have two FICM's on my bench right now that test 48V under all three conditions, but cold starting the truck is a PITA. In fact when it dips down in the 20's or lower, I can't start the truck unless it's plugged in. Just something to think about. If you have a buddy with a 6.0 that run's good, maybe try swapping FICM's to see if it changes your starts. FWIW, these two that I have will start the truck and run great when the motor is already warm. When it sits overnight... forget about it.

Powerstroking84, what oil/oil filters did you use? Did you do fuel filters? What brands?

I had valvoline Do the oil change... So now that doing the research can I just change the filter? And I got my fuel filters from international. The truck cranks for 2-3 seconds and fires up. Then runs like its got a big cam for a few seconds then I can hear it miss fireing.. And at first there is a cloud of white smoke then it starts to taper off... And the truck runs like crap until up to atlest 170*... If I plug it in it starts a little better but not much and still barely gets out of the way until up to temp... I got a buddy who has a scanner and I'm going to have him do the balance test. Thanks for the help guys. Sorry I wished I had the money to dump into parts but I can't medical problems holding me back...

My situation exactly

Honestly your symptoms sound EXACTLY like a bad FICM. I believe someone else on here had the same issues, I sent him a FICM on good will to try out... he ended up hooking it up, truck started great for him, so we worked out a deal. Not saying it is... but sure sounds like it.

Just for giggles, how good are your batteries? It may be worth while having them load tested too, they make a world of difference in how these trucks idle.

Read here, I did this for Wohlf16 a while back. He didn't have the exact symptoms, but close... check it out and read here.

https://www.dieselbombers.com/ford-p...m-start-4.html

I had the batteries load tested and they turned out good... Not the greatest but they passed... I guess next step is to pull off ficm and try to fix it. I've notice that after it warms up my boost pressure isn't that high( highest I've seen it is 11-12) and I've noticed that the engine has a slight miss every now and then and slow response on take off. So that's why I was thinking injector bc mdub mentioned that earlier. Thanks alot again mdub for all the info and help!!!

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

I had the batteries load test and they were good but not the greatest... I guess what's next is to try to fix th ficm... I've noticed that the highest I've seen my turbo boost is like 11-12 psi max... And that the engine has a slight miss after warmed up every once and awhile... That why I thought it might be a bad injector... Thanks alot mdub for all the help and info!!!

You have some serious turbo issues if you're only pushing 11-12psi...

Are you getting any smoke coming out when you're at full throttle and you're only getting this amount of boost?

Could be a few things here.

soldering your FICM won't help if you're already reading 48V. I suspect other issues based on the new information of your low boost numbers.

Had batteries load tested and had one bad battery - replaced it with a NAPA (this was a few weeks ago) and the truck is still having the above listed problems. As also stated the FICM tested great but I am beginning to think it may be bad because my truck is doing exactly what has been described.

Once it is warm starts great and runs great!

No fluid loss no over temps no smoke after warmed up... Nothing at all... I think the turbo needs cleaned bc I don't know how long it sat??? Did I wast $10,000???

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

I've never really beat on it yet bc I want to make sure everything is all good... I'll test the wot after work today to see what I get out of my boost ...

Well you can't make full boost at 1/2 throttle...

Get it up to temp and ROMP on that thing already! It's either going to go, or not go, and if it doesn't go, make sure you are taking mental notes of what is going on... look for stutters, or smoke of any color, anything...

Ok just went out on the highway and beat on her!!! My recordings in my Programmer- boost20psi, eot204*, ect196*, tft2880, iat122*, egt1074*... Now I forgot I had my programmer on stage 2(economy) now smoke what so ever no loss of fluids ans no noise... She had alot of power!!! But I have also noticed that my fuel mileage hasn't been so good 1/4 tank only got me 83 miles... Waiting for fuel up to get actual numbers... And my wait to start light never comes on?

The lite doesn't come on when cold either? Houston whe have a problem..............

if its the orange coil spring on the left side of dash... comes on for like 1 second, cold and warm.. so how bad???

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

typo no smoke what so ever...

if its 30deg outside I would think it should stay on for at least 5 seconds, maybe more

yea never been on that long...so what was the houston we have a problem??? now im worried i bought a pos

No not a POS, just maybe a glow plug issue but this would explain cold start issues and will help diagnose alot easier, just waiting for someone who is a little more knowledgable about GP issues to join in

mdub:gayflag:

just kidding mike

Thats who I was talking about ,, welllllll:scare2:

Hi guys.

Welcome to my Friday morning help hours. I'm usually in not-so-great condition from Thirsty Thursday, so if I start asking the same question that I asked a couple pages back, or am regurgitating things I've already told, just tell me. (I probably wont change any of it, so you're going to have to just deal with it, but you can at least let me know, and I will pretend to care:hellox:)

What programmer are you using?

Stock these trucks should make 22-24psi.

Your EOT and ECT look to be in check, so far. Your EGT's are no where near "danger."

As for fuel mileage... you can't go off of a 1/4 tank man, you need to fill it up to the tippy top (this takes ~15 minutes and is not fun). Keep filling that tank until you have fuel resting in the filler neck. The pump is going to click off the first time, you've got about another 3-5 slow gallons to go, it will keep foaming up. Just hold the pump on the lowest setting and keep going til you have fuel resting there. Then drive your full tank, refill the same way and figure it out. Be sure to compensate for different size tires too.

Now, for your WTS light. Are you plugging the truck in at night? I know when I plug mine in, the light is on for a very short time, even when it's really cold. The good news is, that light is actually independent of the glow plug system. Even on a properly working system, when the light goes out, the glow plugs are still on.

The glowplugs themselves are dependant on the oil temp and altitude believe it or not. Glow plugs are on between 1 and 120 seconds, and if your oil temp is above 131*, they wont come on at all.

If you have access to a scanner we could check a few things. Do you? That'd be the quickest easiest way, otherwise you can get a multimeter and go to town. Careful with the glow plug harness, it typically breaks trying to remove it all the time, so if you do have to replace some, just get a new harness.

Measure resistance on the glow plugs and the glow plug control module. Glow plugs should fall in the .1 - 2 ohm range (not .2!) Glow plug control module should be 0-1 ohms.

If you're over 7000 feet in altitude, the glow plugs come on for 5 seconds more, but still never exceeds 120 seconds.

FWIW, these glow plug systems rarely have issues.

:c:

Ok well my budy works for a guy in new York that has a scanner so I'll see if he can do it... The programmer is a edge evolution not the best one...(came with truck). The wts light flashes for 1 second no matter what....I have been plugging it in at night and helps with the start exapecialy bc doesn't have to warm up as much( neighbors hate the 6" stack!!!) but the truck still won't get out of its own way until up to temp and won't go over 2,000rpm without breaking up.... I want to buy a sct x3 but waiting money issues with medical to clear up an I want to get the AE... I'm worried about the HG's with the tuner tho, not sure if it's had studs done yet. Thanks guys for the help

I'm also in NY with a few scanners...

The quickness in which the light goes out has me wondering. I'm going to look into this a little more. Typically these things don't really "haul the mail" when they're cold anyways, but your breaking up around 2000rpms is getting us somewhere. I bet a bottle of Rev-X would help your problems tremendously. As for studs, you can open the hood and look to see if you have them... Look at the valve cover. You can see some of the the bolts or studs right there at the bottom of the valve cover. If it looks like a bolt head, you have stock bolts, if it looks like a stud with a 12-pt nut on it, you have studs. Pretty simple. A custom tuned SCT is going to be much safer on the headgaskets than any Edge product. Though the recent stuff Edge has put out has been seriously detuned (to avoid killing transmissions like they used to).

Ok well I ordered the rev-x Saturday, I should get it today...

Let us know how that works out for you.:pca1:

How can I tell if my truck has had the latest update (flash?) from the dealer? Someone told me it would help a little bit with the cold starts... But I don't want to pay them to do it if it already has been done. Thanks for the info and I'll let you know tomorrow how the rev-x does!!!

I wouldn't worry about the flash... from my experience with repairing dozens of FICM's, the older programming was better than any of the new one's.

Ok after work I put the rev-x in and drove around a couple miles... Had to plow last night so parked the truck for a good 5 hrs not plugged in and it was like 20* out... Started it up and still took a like 2-3 seconds to start but when it did it ran a little rough for like 2-3 seconds but cleared right up...( just a little white smoke) no were near as much before... So now it runs almost perfect before up to temp!!!! I am a firm believer in rev-x!!! But I still don't get the wts light???? And I did my kam reset... Thanks alot for the help guys!!! Now I just got to fix the 4x4 auto( probilly vacuum leak)

Was cold this morning and forgot to plug in my truck. Went out to start it and it didn't want to!!!!! Was turning over pretty slow then batteries died!!! Went and got 2 napa legends 880cca, put them in and wanted to fire up first try, then second try fired right up, but there was a little cloude of black smoke! Anything wrong? I'm plugging it in tonight and see what it does tomorrow morning.