when considering HPOP replacement
As some of you know i just replaced my hpop and it was a nightmare for me so my intentions in this thread is to help others not run into the problems I did so here it goes
First off if this is your first time tearing into this engine its gonna be some what intimidating but it can be done. The pump is about 700 with a $150 core depending where you get it i got all my parts from the dealer. But the pump isn't the only thing you need you also have gaskets and a ton of o-rings some can be re-used but if you are gonna go through all the work just do it right the first time and get all the parts you should replace. Parts: Hpop Turbo oil drain tube update Intake man. Gasket Turbo o-ring and screw kit Hpop o-ring kit Hpop cover gasket ICP IPR or at the least the filter kit for it ICP pig tail If you have the extra time/money Bullet proof egr cooler Oil cooler Oil cooler filter screen re-condition turbo Tools: 10mm ratcheting wrench Good brand 10mm 6piont socket 1/4 drive and 3/8 Serpintien belt remover Pnumatic ratchet for clamp on Y pipe Pry bar Deep 12mm socket Torx bits 1/4 and 3/8 extentions with wobble heads preferred Pipe wrench if needed A friend if possible Bolt extractor if needed if you strip out bolts on turbo Telescoping magnet you will drop bolts and or sockets hopefully not into the engine like I did The things you will need to remove Belt Alternator Turbo and pedistal Unplug all nessasry wires even the injectors plugged into the drivers side the look like they won't be in the way but you don't want to discover one is broken because it was like I did... Oil filter Oil filter and fuel filter housing Intake manifold (03) Hpop cover egr cooler My issues the turbo bolts were hard to get to they are kind of crowded in there I used a 1/4 extention and went under the wiring harness on the drivers side unfortunately i stripped that bolt out which sucked the clamp on the down pipe was easy the one on the y pipe needed a air ratchet because there was no room to turn a wrench there is also a bolt in the back that cant be seen but I assure you its back there The heat shield I ended up having to bend it out of place because it wouldn't come out The drive belt was no easy task which drove me crazy There is a hose that looks like its connected to the egr cooler my hose was red with strange clips on it I was about to cut it off but realized the egr slides right out of it The front most injector clip on passenger side could only be installed with intake manifold slightly lifted If you are unlucky like me and this is your first time be prepared to spend a few days and a lot of frustrated hours working on it The whole job cost about 1300 I'm sure I'm forgetting some thing but just have patience and you will have a good running truck before you know it |
I have an 06 and since I have plans of doing the same mods I was following your posts. Glad you got it all bolted back together and I hope it is a 1,000,000 miles before you need to do it again! :)
Thanks for this updated post |
it just cost me $1600 to have mine changed. Fun Fun:s:
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I gotta say though its only challenging if you have never tore into this engine half the battle is the turbo once that's removed its all down hill I'd imagine if you were extremely organized like you had all the parts and all your tools laid out this job could be completely done in about 8 hours part if my problem was I kept loosing my tools but the job was totally woth the 1700 in labor I saved
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This is a good example of why getting studs done is worth the cash and effort. If you got to dig into the motor like this you might as well get studs done at the same time. I know not everyone has the cash to drop for that kind of work. I took several months of buying parts before I had the stud work done.
I didn't see if you did a full oil change during the work. I'd suggest adding to the list the oil change fluids and filters. Maybe even add in the fuel filter kit as well. :jump::jump: +1 for brondondolon for wrenching it on your own.:c: Makes you feel good doesn't it?? |
Originally Posted by brondondolon
(Post 838305)
As some of you know i just replaced my hpop and it was a nightmare for me so my intentions in this thread is to help others not run into the problems I did so here it goes
First off if this is your first time tearing into this engine its gonna be some what intimidating but it can be done. The pump is about 700 with a $150 core depending where you get it i got all my parts from the dealer. But the pump isn't the only thing you need you also have gaskets and a ton of o-rings some can be re-used but if you are gonna go through all the work just do it right the first time and get all the parts you should replace. Parts: Hpop Turbo oil drain tube update Intake man. Gasket Turbo o-ring and screw kit Hpop o-ring kit Hpop cover gasket ICP IPR or at the least the filter kit for it ICP pig tail If you have the extra time/money Bullet proof egr cooler EGR cooler delete as an option also Oil cooler Oil cooler filter screen re-condition turbo Tools: 10mm ratcheting wrench Good brand 10mm 6piont socket 1/4 drive and 3/8 Serpintien belt remover Pnumatic ratchet for clamp on Y pipe Pry bar Deep 12mm socket Torx bits 1/4 and 3/8 extentions with wobble heads preferred Pipe wrench if needed A friend if possible Bolt extractor if needed if you strip out bolts on turbo Telescoping magnet you will drop bolts and or sockets hopefully not into the engine like I did The things you will need to remove Belt Alternator 03, if the intake doesn't come off, the alt can stay put Turbo and pedistal Unplug all nessasry wires even the injectors plugged into the drivers side the look like they won't be in the way but you don't want to discover one is broken because it was like I did... Oil filter Oil filter and fuel filter housing Intake manifold (03) Hpop cover egr cooler For more wrench access on up pipe band clamp, I pulled the FICM My issues the turbo bolts were hard to get to they are kind of crowded in there I used a 1/4 extention and went under the wiring harness on the drivers side unfortunately i stripped that bolt out which sucked the clamp on the down pipe was easy the one on the y pipe needed a air ratchet because there was no room to turn a wrench there is also a bolt in the back that cant be seen but I assure you its back there I disconnected down tube and put wrench behind turbo for aft facing bolt from the passenger side. A You Tube video showed going at it from the driver's side behind turbo with an air ratchet. The heat shield I ended up having to bend it out of place because it wouldn't come out The drive belt was no easy task which drove me crazy SINGLE ALT, a RATCHETING torque wrench or a LONG 1/2" drive RATCHET will reach, I doubt a fixed breaker bar will allow the angle needed to push on the tensioner. Removal of upper, aft, clip-on radiatior shroud fairing required. There is a hose that looks like its connected to the egr cooler my hose was red with strange clips on it I was about to cut it off but realized the egr slides right out of it This is where my EGR cooler was leaking when I bought my truck in 06. Crappy clamp, recommend replacement with proper hose clamp and hose if retaining EGR cooler. The front most injector clip on passenger side could only be installed with intake manifold slightly lifted If you are unlucky like me and this is your first time be prepared to spend a few days and a lot of frustrated hours working on it The whole job cost about 1300 I'm sure I'm forgetting some thing but just have patience and you will have a good running truck before you know it |
You dont need to use a tool to loosen the tension bar to get the belt on the alternator. If you get on top of the motor and have the belt in place everywhere except the alternator you can pull upward on the belt by hand against the tension pulley and easily attach it to the alternator.
Hope this helps many of you who are trying to get a socket or tool in the pain in the a** square tension access spot. |
Originally Posted by brondondolon
(Post 838305)
As some of you know i just replaced my hpop and it was a nightmare for me so my intentions in this thread is to help others not run into the problems I did so here it goes
First off if this is your first time tearing into this engine its gonna be some what intimidating but it can be done. The pump is about 700 with a $150 core depending where you get it i got all my parts from the dealer. But the pump isn't the only thing you need you also have gaskets and a ton of o-rings some can be re-used but if you are gonna go through all the work just do it right the first time and get all the parts you should replace. Parts: Hpop Turbo oil drain tube update Intake man. Gasket Turbo o-ring and screw kit Hpop o-ring kit Hpop cover gasket ICP IPR or at the least the filter kit for it ICP pig tail If you have the extra time/money Bullet proof egr cooler Oil cooler Oil cooler filter screen re-condition turbo Tools: 10mm ratcheting wrench Good brand 10mm 6piont socket 1/4 drive and 3/8 Serpintien belt remover Pnumatic ratchet for clamp on Y pipe Pry bar Deep 12mm socket Torx bits 1/4 and 3/8 extentions with wobble heads preferred Pipe wrench if needed A friend if possible Bolt extractor if needed if you strip out bolts on turbo Telescoping magnet you will drop bolts and or sockets hopefully not into the engine like I did The things you will need to remove Belt Alternator Turbo and pedistal Unplug all nessasry wires even the injectors plugged into the drivers side the look like they won't be in the way but you don't want to discover one is broken because it was like I did... Oil filter Oil filter and fuel filter housing Intake manifold (03) Hpop cover egr cooler My issues the turbo bolts were hard to get to they are kind of crowded in there I used a 1/4 extention and went under the wiring harness on the drivers side unfortunately i stripped that bolt out which sucked the clamp on the down pipe was easy the one on the y pipe needed a air ratchet because there was no room to turn a wrench there is also a bolt in the back that cant be seen but I assure you its back there The heat shield I ended up having to bend it out of place because it wouldn't come out The drive belt was no easy task which drove me crazy There is a hose that looks like its connected to the egr cooler my hose was red with strange clips on it I was about to cut it off but realized the egr slides right out of it The front most injector clip on passenger side could only be installed with intake manifold slightly lifted If you are unlucky like me and this is your first time be prepared to spend a few days and a lot of frustrated hours working on it The whole job cost about 1300 I'm sure I'm forgetting some thing but just have patience and you will have a good running truck before you know it But yes. Patience with that turbo is key. I had mine out in 12 min. Flat. But if u lose ur.cool with it expect delays!:) ---AutoMerged DoublePost---
Originally Posted by maxeyac
(Post 1041120)
You dont need to use a tool to loosen the tension bar to get the belt on the alternator. If you get on top of the motor and have the belt in place everywhere except the alternator you can pull upward on the belt by hand against the tension pulley and easily attach it to the alternator.
Hope this helps many of you who are trying to get a socket or tool in the pain in the a** square tension access spot. |
It's good to hear I'm not the only one who struggled with that up pipe! :jump:And yes, oil change and coolant flush while your doing.
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