Diesel Bombers Newb
 

How's it going all, I'm new to the site, and enjoying it so far. I am picking up a 2006 F-250 Lariat, super crew, 4x4 with 109K in about a week. I have worked on these trucks very little so I will be turning to you for the majority of my help I may need. I think I've read about every problem people have with their 6.0's. I plan on upgrading the truck quite a bit within the first year I have it. ARP head bolts, EGR delete, oil cooler, SCT tuner, 5" turbo back MBRP exhaust and possibly a CAI (I understand it's not needed when under 500HP), and possibly a couple other things I can't think of right now. I'm sure all of you have heard these questions a million times before :argh: , but what should be done first. As of now the truck runs like a top, but with my plans up fixing it up I was hoping for some guidance as far as should I replace head bolts before I do anything to it? Also, if anyone suggests kits (bulletproof or complete solution, etc.) I would appreciate links to the better sites to do my business with. I also hear that the Black Onyx head gaskets are junk, why is this? Any other good info you can give me would be greatly appreciated. Thanks a lot everyone, looking forward to meeting some new friends on here!!:c:

welcome:tu:

for reliability sake my first mod would be a coolant filter, followed by either EGR delete or bullet proof EGR. When you go in to do headstuds i would stick with Ford head gaskets. Be sure you have the heads decked when you do it to make sure they are flat. while you are in there rebuild the oil cooler and if you are planning big power then would be the time to do injectors also. Take your time learn the motor and then plan mods. A custom tune on an SCT device whether it be live wire or X3 will get you more than enough to play with to begin with. Gauges gauges gauges...that really should be higher on the list. Coolant temp, oil temp, fuel pressure. Make sure you keep up the 5000 mile oil change interval and 10000 mile fuel filters. when you go to pick up the truck find out when they were changed last...make a command decision here but if the maintenance wasnt kept up id be extremely leary of adding a bunch of power before running it a little while just to see if everything is up to snuff. If you have any problems please refer to the newb thread up top so you can provide good info so we can provide a decent diagnosis. just remember we cant see it hear it or smell it. Good luck and welcome.

Because head studs are VERY INVOLVED, I'm flat out waiting till I push a gasket to do it. That's just me.

If I had to do it again this would be my list
1. Gauges EGT, boost, ECT minimum or OBDII monitor for gauges. Either shut off below 400* EGT or buy a new turbo. I had a turbo timer, it caused more problems than it was worth.
2. Exhaust kit, do it once turbo to tip and be done with it!
2a. AiRaid filter, ditch the front of your air box, and cut out behind grille for max airflow to the filter. Why pay $200 for a K&N filter box that you already have?
3. EGR cooler delete (you're going to find throttle response here)
3a. coolant filter
4. SCT with custom files (don't mash the loud pedal below 190*)
5. Go-go Diesel high gear trans solenoid
Also throw in there somewhere a fuel spring kit from Thoroughbred Diesel (NOT a BB) and upgrade the banjo fittings in the heads. These will set you back less than $75 combined.
Avoid at all costs the BD Diesel Boost Builder, this $80 plug in proved junk in TWO 2003 6.0s.

Above all else remember this: opinions are like belly buttons, everybody has one! Your responsibility is to research the opinions and draw your own conclusions.

Thanks a lot, can you elaborate more about the cutting the hole behind my grill? Are the gains worth it? Also what is the high gear trans solenoid for? Is this it? http://holderdownperformance.com/GoG...solenoid60.htm Thanks again

Look where the air inlet is on the driver's side of the radiator, go forward, there is a fiberglas vertical support, cut there. There's a name for this but I can't recall it at the moment. The grille is held in with 5 or 6 clips top and bottom, a flat blade screw driver and some patients will remove it, it's necessary. This isn't going to make it a 12 second truck, but it can't hurt the air flow either.

Yes, that is the solenoid. The TorqShift can have a "lag" in the 3-5 shift (sometimes called the 3-4 shift, but that's another thread entirely), this solenoid is suppose to tighten that up. I lost to a 94 LT1 Trash Can at the track because of this shift. I had my shell on, a classic 8oz Coke machine, and my spare 365/65-16 Toyo in the back, and I was pullin away up to that point! Grrrrr!

ZOODAD mod..............

Kept thinking VOODOO. ZOODAD, VOODOO, it all starts with a "Q". That's what I get for watching Jimi Hendrix on Biography Channel yesterday. :rocking:

Sorry, the spring was from Gillette Diesel

http://www.gillettdiesel.com/gdsfuelspring.aspx

That's cheap for that spring, they used to be something like $70. The reviews are pretty bad on it on their site, said fuel pressure shot up to around or even more than 100psi at idle... that seems excessively high.

You can get just the spring and the o-ring seal for the cover to do the job from Ford too. P/N: 6E7Z-9C165-B Tousley lists it for $38 or so.

I really appreciate all of this guys, any other good info you can send this way would be great. thanks again!!:tu: