got my egr delete done and out of the way
Well i started at 6 at night just got done at 3 in the morning not bad got the kit from custom diesel great kit now my coolant filteration kit and sct livte wire with vivans tune will be ordered this week 6.0 is coming together
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awesome man. where are the pics at?
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Originally Posted by jeffa6980
(Post 828883)
awesome man. where are the pics at?
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I'll get some up i took a couple ill post when i get back to my lap top its wasn't as hard as i thought gonna do the banjo bolt and the ficm mod next
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Pretty sweet! I wish mine would have ONLY taken 9 hours. What did you mean referring to the banjo bolt?
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It gives you 60 pounds of touqe dyno provin ill take pics and a write up man
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You're kidding right?
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Nope
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Well I do believe I'd like to see the dyno on that one. Post the sheets.
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never heard of it. huh
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Its on my buddys truck if you read my recent post it ant been done yet on my truck
---AutoMerged DoublePost--- Mdub I've read post about the banjo bolt and seen you replied to the post so you've never heard of it huh? |
Never heard of what? The banjo bolt mod? Of course I've heard of it. Did it a while ago and ended up pulling the bolts out of mine for check valves with my vegistroke. I might have overlooked it. I spend too much time on too many forums reading too many things.
There is no way in hell anyone is getting 60 ft/lbs from an EGR delete. NOT happening. If it happened, post the dyno, I'd love to see it. |
No not 60 tourqe off egr delete I was talking bout the banjo bolt
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Strictly diesel says there are four of these, I have only seen the ones on the front of the heads. Are there two more on the back side? That would suck to change those out if there were.
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banjo bolt mod what is it?:humm:
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You replace your front banjo bolts on each side of the front of your motor with banjo bolts from a 6.4. 6.0s come with a banjo bolt with a check valve in them and smaller and fewer holes. The 6.4 has no check valve, more holes and they are bigger allowing more fuel. Im just going with what ive read but the two on the front are the only ones you replace. The ones on the back are just plugs. And I never heard of it increasing torque? I just did it because its supposed to increase fuel pressure in order to help save injectors. Im new to diesels but im slowly becoming a diesel mechanic thanks to owning a 6.0.:jump:
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My buddy said they gave it 60 more tourqe numbers I dunmo he bought a 6.0 new in 03 loved it so much he bought 4 more he has a 03 dually 04 Harley 04 lariat and a 05 lifted 10 inch on 40s he does all his work him self and he's a damn good mechanic he said something aboit it so where gonna try it on my truck since his is already done I'm gonna try to dyno it to see if the numbers are true
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Originally Posted by wohlf16
(Post 829388)
You replace your front banjo bolts on each side of the front of your motor with banjo bolts from a 6.4. 6.0s come with a banjo bolt with a check valve in them and smaller and fewer holes. The 6.4 has no check valve, more holes and they are bigger allowing more fuel. :
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Karl, you can buy the same bolts on ebay for like $25 shipped...
Stock 6.0 bolts < 6.4 bolts < ebay bolts. I don't really think any of them are that restrictive. The 6.4 bolts should suffice for 90% of the guys out there. |
Originally Posted by mike12v!
(Post 828873)
Well i started at 6 at night just got done at 3 in the morning not bad got the kit from custom diesel great kit now my coolant filteration kit and sct livte wire with vivans tune will be ordered this week 6.0 is coming together
When doing the EGR delete did you run into any surprises? Did you combine the delete with any other mods that would have you required to duplicate the labor of doing the EGR? Sorry for all of the questions but I'm positively in the beginning learning stage ---AutoMerged DoublePost--- Okay - was just checking BulletProof's web page and they talk about the EGR delete vs the EGR Cooler - supposedly the delete is for off road use only. Is everybody here doing the actual delete or doing the COOLER? |
From what i understand you have to do both. Correct me if I’m wrong but what good is the cooler doing if the EGR is deleted. I think you have to do both the EGR delete and the cooler.
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Originally Posted by The hosser
(Post 831551)
From what i understand you have to do both. Correct me if I’m wrong but what good is the cooler doing if the EGR is deleted. I think you have to do both the EGR delete and the cooler.
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Technically speaking, tampering with ANY emissions part is a federal crime.
With that said... I've deleted my EGR valve and cooler. Gone. MIA. BPD has a nice upgraded cooler, and if I lived in Cali where emissions testing is far more restrictive, I'd have one of those. For the cost, I figured to just delete it was my best option. A first timer can expect 12+hrs to do an EGR delete. Have a buddy on hand to help, because you'll need it. I don't think any special tools were needed... I remember having to go get a 12pt 8mm box wrench though as I didn't have on on hand. I know the bolts/studs for the up-pipe use the 12pt hardware. It's not difficult at all, but very tedious! You will swear a lot, and you will down a lot of beer. |
well i look forward to the beer part. haha:c:
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I left my EGR valve in place because:
1. Didn't want an open circuit with the valve unplugged. 2. The valve wasn't scavenging exhaust, the cooler was. 3. I agree with Liberator that the cooler is the problem not the valve. 4. I was tired of being under my hood! |
Another good reason to leave it plugged in is some strategies need it plugged in for the fan to operate, without the valve the fan will never come on.
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