6.0 wont start
 

The dash ie odometer, and check engine light comes on. It cranks fast, and it will pop off like its about to start and then it goes back to cranking

https://www.dieselbombers.com/ford-p...questions.html

Welcome to the site. You're going to need to provide a whole lot more info for us to even take a stab at this, but read the link above, re-post and we'll start picking this one apart.

Need more info. What mods are done to it? when was the last time the fuel filters were changed? How old are your batteries? Read the sticky about the help for newbies and posting threads. Need more info to help.

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ahhh mdub you beat me too it...

This was suppose to be in front of last one, I have a 05 F250 6.0 turbo, i have recently swapped the engine b/c the egr cooler went bad and dumped fluids in places they weren't suppose to go (upgraded the egr cooler). I have had it back for a month now. It cranks but will not start, I have drained the water seperator, purged the fuel lines (disconnect from the head and turned over three times), replaced the fuel filters, pulled and cleaned the EGR valve, charged batteries both will hold a charge, cleaned the battery terminals. I did notice oil around the oil filter housing. I am going to check the FICM as soon as i can get my hands on a volt meter. but any ideas would be greatly appreciated

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no mods all stock batteries aren't but a year old give or take a month. fixing to check the ficm, will post the readings

have you load tested the batteries?

went and bought a charger/tester last night they are holding a charge

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i see some oil around the oil filter housing. could it be the hpop not getting enough oil pressure thats not letting it start. im by no means a diesel mechanic i jus did alot of research on this and just asking

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it stopped turning over and is clicking now my battery tester/charger says they are charged and the volt meter says driver side battery is at 10.90 and the passenger battery is at 11.90 but its like they don't have enough juice to turn the truck over:argh:

your batteries probably have the voltage but not the amperage (the capacity to crank it). get some new batteries.

if you can get a scanner with datastream, check and see what your hpop is putting out for psi.

any codes?

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also can you see if anything has come unplugged? IPR? ICP?

Were you getting any smoke out the tail pipe when you were turning it over?

Your oil leak is on the low pressure side, so as long as it's pretty small it really shouldn't effect the HPOP. Though, I'm not ruling the HPOP out, we just need more info.

You don't really need to bleed the air out of the fuel system like on other engines, this will work itself out. It may take a while to bleed the high pressure oil though, but usually 3 or 4 times of 20 second cranking should get it fired, worst case.

I'll bet you're not getting smoke out the tail pipe, and I'll bet it's some electrical connection causing it. Especially since you just did an engine swap.

What year truck do you have and what year motor was used? How many miles on the new motor, and what was the life of the motor before you got it, if you know that?

I agree, the batteries are clearly drained, they really need to be load tested, not just read with a multi-meter.

To check HPOP pressure, he needs to read ICP actual and ICP desired and compare the two. Desired is what the truck wants, actual is what the HPOP is doing. I'd also check IPR duty cycle along with those two to really see what's going on. The IPR is what commands the ICP. If IPR duty cycle is up near 75% or 85% you either have a stuck IPR or a high pressure oil leak somewhere.

If ICP was unplugged, the truck would start still.

The oil around the filter housing could be form the O ring on the filter cap. Check the O ring and replace as necessary but be sure to lube the new O ring so it doesn’t bind while tightening. As for the tester/charger it is only a way to test how many volts and charge the battery. It is not the way to load test the batteries. The batteries need to be load tested. Any auto parts store can do this. Sounds like they both need to be replaced.

I've got extra oil o-rings too if you need any, I can send you one out tomorrow AM if you need one.

hey by chance you wouldnt happen to have a 4x4 shifter bracket for a 97 powerstroke with E4OD would ya? you know the ones that snap off at the bolt flange?
you seem to have alot of parts, figured i'd ask haha

Na, I mainly have 6.0 junk.

damn, well it was worth a shot haha. thanks though!

I had the batteries load tested at auto zone as they are still under warranty they said they were 100% so I have no idea. I don't have a scanner with data stream but I am having it towed to the shop in the morning I just don't have the tools to get it done and done right. I appreciate all the advice

You don't need a scanner. If you just answer some of the questions I asked we could probably point you in the right direction. No special tools needed. Your call though, hope it works out! :c:

i know the problem! autozone....... no offense to anyone that has family or friends that work there, but from my experience, 3/4 of them dont know what the hell they're talking about.

but good luck! let us know what they find! :c:

Could it be the crankshaft sensor?

umm, do 6.0's have crank sensors? or just cam? :humm: to be honest im not quite sure about 6.0's hahaha. we'll find out!

like they said...DID U TEST THE FICM? when it was cranking was it smoking??

Answer the questions posted already, otherwise we really can't help you.

The 6.0 has a crankshaft and camshaft position sensor and both will typically be thrown as codes falsely when someone is cranking the truck an awful lot trying to get it started. It is possible it could be that, but unless that code popped up a while ago before it wouldn't start, I wouldn't count on it fixing anything.

Unfortunately I feel I have nothing else to offer in the way of help without knowing more...:humm:

true ^
i did some research, IH borrowed this concept on how this works from CAT (just like the injection system)

If the crank sensor fails, a code will be logged, but the truck will still start and use the Cam Position Sensor as its reference for engine position and timing.
If the cam sensor fails, a code will be logged, but the engine will still start and use the crank sensor as its reference for engine position, but will change the timing to FIXED and adjust it 2 degrees per revolution until the correct timing is reached. (will start but takes alot of cranking)

unlike the 7.3's when you loose the cam sensor...... its all over :argh:

To add to that, typically these sensors in the 6.0's don't go bad.

right, its not every day you hear about bad cam and crank sensors in a 6.0 like the cam sensor in the 7.3.
unless both are bad (which is HIGHLY unlikely) the engine should still start

i just think this guy dosnt care:td:

When it was cranking the ficm was putting out fluctuating between 46-48 while cranking and was smoking. it wasn't the crankshaft sensor it was the cam sensor that was bad putting it on in the morning if thats not it. it has to be the ficm. I really do appreciate the advice i can only check this thing in the afternoon during the week as i work during the day. my next question would be how reliable is having the ficm repaired vs buying new?

DO NOT BUY A NEW ONE... Mdub fixes them, PM him:tu:

A new FICM will still have a minute amount of solder on the boards and eventually the same problems.


If you have smoke coming out while you're cranking it, I don't believe it to be a FICM. Especially if you're getting 46-48V. Though, that doesn't always mean they're good.

If you're getting smoke while cranking though, that tells me you're getting fuel, just not getting a full burn for some reason.

Have you done any maintenance recently, or has any work been done at all? Did the truck just develop these issues out of no where, or was it a gradual thing?

It was beginning to take a little more time to crank it. But the truck ran fine that day parked it for the night got up the next morning to go to work and it was turning over (with smoke) but thats all it would do then I drained the water seperator, pulled the fuel filters, and drained some fuel from the lines by disconnecting the line from the block and cranking a few times, replaced the filters and primed, still wouldn't start. I also pulled and cleaned the egr valve.

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What does it usually run to rebuild a ficm?

Ford charges $900 for a new one without programming
They also offer a "half shell" for around $400
Swamps charges like $450 and a $300 core I believe, or something silly.

Like I said, I seriously doubt it's your FICM.

In the beginning you said check engine light was on... did you ever get the codes read? That will help us tremendously....:c:

the codes according to the shop are water in the fuel, crankshaft sensor, and another one fuel related i can't remember the exact terminology. I will double check to see what the scanner acutually coded it as

Please be sure to post back here. How often is the water drained and how often are fuel filters changed? What filters are used?

I drain it once a week it only takes a minute. I have only had the truck a month after an engine swap and the filters weren't completely shot but I decided to replace them anyway i used the purolator filters.

I would stick with international or motorcraft only for fuel filters. A lot of those aftermarket one's don't even have the water separator membrane built in... and this makes a lot of sense if you have water in fuel codes...

Could the filters keep it from starting or is that just for the water in fuel code?

the water in the fuel could keep it from starting..

but you say you regularly drain it, i personally dont think its the issue. unless your filters are totally plugged...

have you ever at any time noticed what looked like metal flakes in your fuel filters?

your seeing smoke, your FICM is probably working, this probably isnt fuel related.

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while your mechanic has it on a scanner, can you have him check what the hpop is putting out for pressure? i understand this is only as good as what the icp sensor see's but itll help.

I would still like to know exactly which codes you had. Can you get that info? That will help us tremendously.