are 6.0 really that bad
 

Well guys I come here from the cummins section I've sold my 12 valve and am looking at a 2005 Ford f250 lariat with only 113000 miles loaded up one owner my dads friend bout brand new I can get it for 14 cash good buy? Are they junk?

the 6.0's are hit or miss.. chances are if the truck has lasted this long without issues its one that will last. the main issues with the engine are the egr cooler, oil cooler, injectors, turbo and head gaskets. if you upgrade or delete the egr, upgrade the cooler, and do head studs (with a tuner for an egr delete), they'll run like a raped ape and last a long time. they're a good motor once you fix the problems!

I think the "issues" are mostly related to the coolant maintenance. Flushing the coolant or replacing it with an ELC should prevent the EGR cooler or oil cooler issues. Deleting the EGR system using whatever method you choose helps TONS.

Injectors and turbos feed off the oil so using cheap oil will lead to premature failure. I don't know of any real "issue" throughout the 6.0 injectors, same with the turbos.

Head gaskets are the real "hit-and-miss" item listed. I ran modded for SEVERAL years driving and towing never having a major HG issue. Only recently did I have a HG job done since I had several mods to do at once. My tech said there was only a small area on one gasket that had a questionable area.

Have a Ford Service department run an OASIS report on the VIN. This will tell you what service work has been done at any Ford dealership.

Very true on the injectors ^. cheap oil or neglected maintenance really seems to ruin the high pressure oil pump and injectors. otherwise they really dont have issues. also true with the turbo's!

and still the head gaskets, you might as well install head studs and not have to worry about it anyway if you have the money. :choochoo:

ive had mine for about 6months and it runs awesome, mine had the arp head studs and the egr was welded closed when i bought the truck so luckly i didnt have to worry about any of those problems, i think if you get one and do those mods you will be very happy with it.

I bought my 03 F250 used in 06. The previous owner clearly never came to this sight because at 35K the turbo was smoked. My best guess is that the previous owner did not allow proper cool down of EGTs and coked the turbo. I do cool downs and the factory reman'ed turbo has been flawless for 55K.

I keep mine oiled at 7500 miles and fuel filters changed at 15K as per Ford's maint recommendations. I changed BOTH trans filters at 60K. I've only had one injector stick open and I filed that under "crap happens". Kinda like when the x-fer case solenoid went when I was in a muddy ditch.

I recently dumped my EGR cooler (I left the EGR valve in place. Why not, its not the problem the cooler was.Plus I won't get a MIL with it hooked up.) With an Innovative tuned SCT X3, I can get 17~18 on the highway rolling 35" BFGs, outrun most 5.0s, I have several 2nd and 3rd place truck pull finishes and IT'S MY DAILY DRIVER!!

If you made 1 million widgets at a 5% error rate (pretty good margin BTW) you would have sold 50,000 bad units. Let these units fall into the hands of folks who would rather complain than do the proper maintenance or the math and now the uneduacated consumer thinks you have 500,000 bad units out there. This about sums up the bum reputation that the 6.0 has in my opinion.

As a stock daily driver, an egr delete and a coolant filter would be more than most would ever need, along with proper maintenance.

As a hot rod, if you can keep headgaskets in them, they are extremely stout. Stock bottom end should be good to the 650-700rwhp range, stock valvetrain has been spun up and over 1200rwhp (see shaun ellertons CC/SB running 10.40's in the 1/4), the 5R110 is one of the most stout auto trans out there, living up behind tuned 6.4's putting out near 600rwhp... they are really great trucks.

Thanks guy i bought it

Where's the pics!

Congrats!

One thing to remember is to let it warm up to temps (150 degree oil temp at least before you "romp" on it.

Mine had a few issues, but i Love it:rocking:

I am loving mine more and more everyday now that i have been tinkering with it more!

Im not sure how too post pics to be honest ha

Upload your pics to photobucket.com first, much easier that way, then just copy and paste the links in here.

Just to add on the EGR topic. I seen earlier that some said that he just deleted the cooler since the EGR valve isnt the issue. This may be correct but something also to keep in mind is, it is Exhaust Gas Recirculation. Any particulate or "black smoke" your blowing is being fed back through your engine and is not helpful in any aspect. Slowing wearing rings faster, shortening oil life, carboning intake, and so on. Just my two cents i though i would let you think about. Hope things go well with your new ride.

If the cooler is gone, there is none of that going back in. The cooler itself connects the passenger side up-pipe to the intake manifold. So exhaust comes out of the head, through the manifold, to the up-pipe, to the EGR cooler, to the EGR valve and into the intake. So if the cooler is gone, no more exhaust entering the intake again, so he's right, the valve doesn't really matter now. :tu:

10-4 didn't know that ab:tu:out the cooler. Good thing your ontop of your sh.. Thanks for the clarification.

No problem! I know a little bit about a lot... :c:

haha jack of all trades and master of none lol i know the feeling:c:

Another question I have a ppe on mine run on stage 5 (100hp) setting with a 5 inch exhaust i dont have my Egr deleted is this safe or ok?

With the soot that programmers generate, its a good idea to delete the cooler if you're going to run one. This Diesel Power article has some pretty good how-to pictures and information.

EGR Block-Off Kit - Diesel Tech - Diesel Power Magazine

My 6.0 has new HPOP, ARP studs, Full EGR delete, 90 hp injectors, 4 gauge pod with Pyro oil temp, coolant temp, and fuel pressure. Im in the process of getting the money for an air dog to get some more fuel to those injectors and a SCT programmer.

My 6.0 has had no problems that was the motors fault. I have had MULTIPLE issues with the injectors i purchased from River City Diesel. Im at 80,000 miles and she isn't doing bad. If you take care of the thing and do your proper maintenance then you wont have any problems. 6.0's get a bad rep from the kids that go out and daddy buys one for them and they treat the thing like a race car; do little to no maintenance and wonder why they cant keep it out of the shop.

If your going to own a 6.0, do your research and put a little work into it. Youll have a fine rig.

The least safe part about this is the PPE programmer. Your transmission will probably fail before anything EGR related.

I agree, programmers will accelerate any issues (more heat).

RCD has been known to have issues with their injectors, but so does any company that uses old injectors to make "built" one's out of. I see they do offer injector builds from brand new Ford cores now, just more money.

What does a 90hp injector equate to in CC's? No one really uses HP ratings on 6.0 injectors. So you're not running a programmer? Yikes. Larger injectors are usually a bad idea without some sort of custom tuning to help the tranny live. Though, maybe I'm just reading that wrong!? I'd also be pretty nervous of what the fuel pressure is dropping to, but I'm glad to see you have a gauge and are actually watching it!

I have a ppe for just fuel milage I'm not hard on it

Well that still seems counter intuitive. Why not get a custom tuned SCT, that will save the trans, as well as offer safer power at higher levels than a "fooler" programmer like the PPE? You can get custom mileage tunes for the SCT's as well, though the best mileage comes from the hottest programs with quick torque converter lock-ups, which you can only get on an SCT....

To each their own I guess.

I'm gonna get a sct what do they run?

someone is sellin one on this site for $400

You can get them new for $430....

Used one's typically go around $250 for x-3's.

I've got used X-2's for as low as $150.

If you're going to buy new, you're better off going right from the tune writer, since they typically include new tunes for free. The chances of buying a used tuner and having the tunes on it work for your truck are slim.