Ordering the tune, or the whole FICM? What's wrong with your FICM? The tunes themselves are supposed to be great! I've been wanting to order a PHP gryphon with all of the tunes, but I'm a little nervous after reading all of the posts on other sites about people having issues getting in contact with PHP. They're short staffed and they keep it that way intentionally, but unfortunately it seems to mean that some customers get dropped off the face of the planet.

Nothing is wrong with my ficm but i was reading about the one with a warranty and upgrade to atlas 40 that improves drivability turbo lag heips milage and they said you can still run a programmer with it

I wouldn't replace one that isn't broke bud. Repairs are always cheaper than replacements. The Atlas 40 tune can be loaded to your FICM, supposed to help quite a bit with drivability. You can still run a programmer with it yes. I've heard of some issues on trucks with larger injectors having high EGT's running both custom tunes AND the FICM tuning, seems geared more towards stock injectored trucks. :c:

I wouldn't replace one that isn't broke bud. Repairs are always cheaper than replacements. The Atlas 40 tune can be loaded to your FICM, supposed to help quite a bit with drivability. You can still run a programmer with it yes. I've heard of some issues on trucks with larger injectors having high EGT's running both custom tunes AND the FICM tuning, seems geared more towards stock injectored trucks. :c:

I just cant have the down time to send mine in to have the tune installed that was the only reason i was going to replace mine

You don't have to, you can pay for the tuner to be sent to you. I think you just pay a deposit on it and they'll mail it to you, you load the tune up, send it back and get your money back. I know for a fact Innovative Diesel does this, and PHP might as well.

Or just order the gryphon from PHP, that way you get ALL of the FICM tunes they offer and a pod that can do a few things gauge wise for you, all for less than $400 if memory serves.

I had the same thing happening for over 6 weeks and everyone I took it to wanted to change everything and charge alot of $. Finally I decided to try Rev-X and within 10 miles of driving the bucking and lunging went away. A cheap fix:jump:

Sam, have you tested your FICM, it can cause similar symptoms too! Rev-X is an awesome product, but at the end of the day it's really just a band-aid unfortunately. However, I will continue to run it regardless. I can't help but wonder if it will work as a preventative thing too... avoid stiction issues before they even pop up.

Hi Hox, I have an 03 that had the exact same problem. After a ton of research and mods I figured out how to fix that problem and it is very inexpensive in most cases. Trouble is I'm a newbie on this forum and I cannot tell you yet how I fixed the problem because it might be considered advertising my product and I can't do that until I find out about being a sponsor and then placing an ad on the site somehow. I have an 03 with an edge tuner, invisible egr (lol) and my own home brewed external oil cooler. If you want to see the oil cooler mods you can go to Oil Cooler Upgrade Power Stroke Diesel I don't make those mods for sale or anything I just did it for my own project and satisfaction but there is a ton of info there for free and even instructions on how to diy if you want. There is really no link there for my product either because I don't want to violate the rules here. Anyway stay tuned to my username (acetron) and if the site admins agree to let me talk about it I will.:tu:

Had same issue found problem to be a bad injector was only running on 7 cylinders replaced it now runs like new

Replace it or not? That is the question!
 

Yes! Precisely, and that is what most everyone does. Sometimes injectors are actually completely shot and must be replaced. Having said that I had a mechanic with a good rep tell me that I had two injectors peforming poorly on the right bank. He also said that I should just replace all four because the labor was so high that while he was in there it would be smart to just go ahead. At the time I was new to these trucks and didnt know much so I agreed and I paid $1700 for 4 factory refurbed units to be installed on the right bank. When I picked up the truck it did run much better but I still had some disapointment in its overall perfomance when it was cold it ran very bad for the first five to 10 minutes, limping down the road in the morning when I was too short on time for warm up. Then when the truck was good and hot on a summer day and I shut it off it would not always restart and I got stranded a few times. I thought it was FICM, went through all that stuff and everything was good. Then I bought an edge tuner and found out that I had low contribution on two injectors, one was on the right bank and one on the left. Just had all the right bank replaced so this threw up a red flag. That's when I started doing my own mechanical work on the truck and really began learning. Go to the basement biz section and you can see a posting I made about a solution that I developed. It works! My truck runs so good now that I cant hardly believe it myself. I live in Indiana and it has been very cold here in the mornings last week. I go out and fire up my cold truck at 29 degrees F and take off immediately like a scalded dog. Don't even have to plug it in, it runs that good!:tu:

No start hot conditions are typically a high pressure oil leak, I can't see an oil additive fixing that at all. However, I'd like to hear more about your product and would love to see some of the oil analysis results...

That's why I use rev x oil and fuel additives takes care of any stiction and keeps my rig running in great condition

Free Samples are hard to beat.
 

Two words, FREE SAMPLE, two more words, FREE SHIPPING. You decide.

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That is true in many cases. I tore into my truck and had all the injectors out for inspection, checked and replaced all the o-rings fittings etc. that everyone advised. My engine was in pristine condition inside with less than 100K miles and still had hot start issue. I know I sound like a snake oil salesman but believe me this stuff works. My truck did not have any of the suggested failures and I still had both hot start issues and cold performance issues. I would not provide oil analysis even if I had done it because it reveals several of my ingredients in my formula however I will send you a free sample of my product if you like and you can have the analysis done yourself. You will find out some of my ingredients in the process but you still wont know the ratio or mix or any of the other trade secrets that it takes to make it so I have no problem with you doing that and could not stop you anyway. So what to you say? Want a free sample? Free shipping? You decide.

Again, if you had hot start issues, you had a small high pressure oil leak somewhere... they're not very complicated systems.

As for the rough cold starts, yes the additive would definitely help that. I've found different FICM tunes can really change that as well. Bumping the FICM's up to 58V has also helped others. Few different ways to skin a cat and you can use multiple approaches as well (FICM tuning, good batteries, oil additive).

We'll be looking forward to hearing and seeing more about your additive.

Truck buck
 

Hi all.

I have a 2006 F350 6lt diesel.

It has to be warmed up for 10-15 min , or forget it takes long time driving to get where t should be .

Over a yr ago was talking to a guy at work , same truck , same symptoms 3 places said you need injectors .

Back yard mech(old school) says use AFT in fuel half a liter per tank , one liter in oil changes.

So I did in about 3 tanks no more truck buck.

Stopped using AFT in fuel , sure enough it was back truck buck.

Started using AFT again its cleaning up , takes 2 or 3 tanks to get back to normal .

AFT works for me , hope this helps others .

Sticking injectors. I just had this problem not even a week ago and made a post on it. Everyone said the same thing and sure enough they were right.

If U haven't replaced the injectors yet , try AFT in the fuel .
Give it some time a few tanks , half liter per tank 130 lt tank .
Heck its worth a try ,
AFT will clean and lube those dirty parts.
O ya u will get the odd puff of white smoke .

Works for me and its cheap !

I need some advice with same studder in OD and a slight up and down idle. Just got done installing injectors that were rebuilt to 155cc by Warren Diesel after hearing nothing but good things. They claim that my issue is more than likely an injector not sealing properly. I am somewhat skeptical about their diagnosis. Also, I know a lot of you will tell me that I should have only gone with OEM replacements or Alliant injectors, but since mine were doing so well prior to the solenoids/coils getting fried I thought having them rebuilt was worth a shot.

I torqued them down to 30 ft/lbs. They recommend 32 ft/lbs. I did not clean out the injector cups with a brush or anything like that, but I did blow out the injector hold down bolt holes. They said if my injectors were sticking that it would show up during cold starts and not just in OD.

Like I said my injectors were all doing great prior to my FICM frying and taking several out on the electrical side with it. Now after having them repaired and reinstalling them this issue has showed up. The truck doesn't feel like it has quite as much power as it did before the problem. Plus while I was getting my FICM rebuilt I got the ATLAS 40 tune on it and also had my ECM strategy rolled back to a VXCF4 stategy so that along with 155cc injectors with stock nozzles you would think I'd have more power. Also, why would my injectors suddenly be sticking?

What should I do to properly diagnose my problem? Warren Diesel said I will have to pull injectors until I find the one that is leaking past the copper gasket. I have an AE scan tool. Should I do a Power Balance test? I will probably do a buzz test while I am at it, but don't forsee that showing any issues. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

truck buck
 

Not sure , but with mine it needs at least 10 to warm up no matter the temp out side .
Also when its acting up put it in tow haul keeps up rpms less jerking .

I cant stress the warm up enough its gotta be done.

What is AFT that you put in your fuel? Do you mean ATF? I usually run ashless two-cycle oil at about 3/4 oz per gallon in my fuel. Also, my truck is fully warmed up when it is giving me the issues.

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Really what I need is thoughts on how to diagnose which injector or injectors are not performing right and causing the shudder. Also, it sounds like I should have cleaned the injector pockets and maybe gotten a better torque wrench.

Yes ATF.

The fuel presure regulator maybe on the way out . 5C3Z 9C968 CA

It get riped the screen on the end .

Location behind turbo .

The ATF will clean up dirty parts .

Because of the sudden onset I am convinced it is injector related but don't know how to best diagnose which injector is giving me fits. Is it a sealing issue or a sticking issue? If so what is sticking? The spool valve? Wouldn't that show up on cold starts as well? It starts fine with no bucking/rough running.

It ended up being an injector connector that was disconnected. I must not have got it popped on good when I put it back together.

04 6.0 Missing HELP!!!! PLEASE
 

I have read all the posts on here, I just had all 8 injectors and all 8 glow plugs replaced. Truck had misfires in few cylinders. Now since having them all replaced the truck bucks or misses at highway speeds....I had mechanic ride with me and hook up computer, there is no misfires in any cylinders and the FICM only drops to 47, but they cannot figure out the issue. I have an EGR delete done...also the truck never did miss or buck at highways speeds even when I had bad injectors! It would only miss first thing in morning and had a rough idle, since new injectors and glow plugs, truck idles smooth. HELP!!!! Truck is getting expensive!

Bucking 06 6.0L
 

I am experiencing the same thing in od. In August I had an egr delete put on. We cleaned everything, new gaskets, the works. We took apart the turbo and ran through the sandblasted at my buddies shop who is a diesel mechanic. This was just extra because the turbo was only 1.5 years old. Changed oil, oil filters and fuel filters. Drove to Florida the next day. Truck ran better than it had since I bought it. There are no codes for injectors. We hooked up to laptop and they were fine. Just started getting the bucking again. At a loss!

Same issue exaclty, ever find a solution?
 

Ever figure this out? I am going through this now. I have purchased a new injector harness, my injectors are all new and testing fine, new TPS, no codes. I cannot go over 60 or it starts doing this and stalling. Runs fine up to 60

Same as Lemming
 

I have same symptoms.
I left truck parked on a hill about 24hrs with 1/4 tank of fuel, the rear was approx 1 1/2 - 2 feet higher.
When started it ran fine about 10 seconds and began to run rough. No power On cold take off. I was certain I'd spilled in some dirt.
45-60 bucks badly and I can drive out of it. I've replaced fuel filters, oil filter and oil. Added 8oz rev x oil add. And rev x fuel add. Driven 100+ miles, no change
No lights on dash no codes.
Any got an idea.

My issue turned out to be a broken oil rail... The oil rail itself had sheered right at the end of the plug on top. From the looks of it, it was a casting flaw that ad grown and finally split under pressure. This effectively killed my oil psi without throwing any codes. Acted like a missfire over 60mph... Truck ran great until the PSI was high enough to start forcing oil out the crack.

I was replacing the injector I thought was bad, took it all apart and checked the injector. after putting it all back together again, I had this feeling that I should check the oil rail and make sure it was seated tight. Sure enough... +1 God. thanks for impressing me to check again. :argh:

Had the same problem with my 05 unplugged the icp sensor and problem went away. On the 03 and some 04 the icp is under the turbo and quite a pain to get to. But on the newer trucks it’s located on passenger side valve cover. If problem stops when unplugged then you should replace icp and pigtail.