think one is a single unit and the other is the pair, the kit I posted comes with 2 standpipes and 2 dummy plugs. You can tell if the truck has the stock Dummy plugs or the updated ones, the stock dummy plugs use a 10mm allen to get them out and the updated ones use a 12mm allen. the standpipes use a 10mm no matter what but when you take them out look for the white ring supporting the oring, the stock does no have it and the new ones do.

 

bobfbigman,

Hello again. I just finished replacing the new STC fitting and have put the HPOP back into the truck. The kit came with new bolts and o rings. I have used all the o rings except one. I replaced all of the o rings and filter on the IPR valve (they came in a separate little packet) I replaced the yellow o ring below the mounting bolts on the drivers side of the engine. It looks like the STC fitting to engine is a machined fit and I didn't see an o ring when I took it apart. Am I missing something or is this possibly just an extra??

I am going to stop for the day until I get a reply because I don't want to tear it back down if I missed something. I wound up removing the intake manifold and EGR cooler cause there was one bolt on the HPOP cover that wouldn't come loose all the way to the back and under the EGR cooler. If this seems all ok my next step will be the standpipes and dummy plugs.

As always thanks for your help.

Whitey Cook

 

If I am not mistaken there is a small oring that sits in a recess in the branch tube where the STC fitting bolts to it.
6.0 branch tube - Bing Images
this pic will show what I am talking about, alot of times after it is compressed and has oil on you can't see the oring but it is there and should be replaced.

 

bobfbigman and/or all,

Thanks again I pulled my HPOP and did find the oil ring I had missed under the STC fitting, got it replaced and reinstalled the HPOP and the cover. I pulled the drivers side valve cover to replace the dummy plugs and standpipes and that is where I have a problem. The Dummy plugs in my kit look identical except for the Teflon backer seal. My new standpipes however are 10" long from tip to tip (I have 2). The one I took out of my truck is only 3&3/4" long. Am I missing something or did I get a wrong part or what.

Again I'm stopping for the day until I get some more feedback as I don't want to screw something up. I don't know if I'm supposed to have two more shorter standpipes and the long one go somewhere else or what. I looked at a couple of pictures of standpipes and they looked like the long ones from my new kit.

Again Thanks. All of the help is greatly appreciated.

Whitey Cook

 

The stadpipes are actually 2piece, and you only pulled the upper piece, you can pull the new one apart too but put some oil on the orings before you put it back together. mot of the times it is easier to pull the oil rail to get the other half out,, then retorque the oil rail bolts to 10 ft lbs, some guys have beeen able to wedge something in the other half to pull it out but it is safer to just pull the oil rail.

 

OK that make sense as I have read something about that. Here is a question I am grappling with. Since I am already this deep into the top-end and I have 155K miles, should I just go ahead and also replace the injectors as well? I talked to Ford a while back to do an injector clean and they said they don't do them. I'm in Oklahaoma City area.

I then checked with a diesel engine repair service and they said about $85.00 to do an injection clean. I have not had a problem as far as I know with my injectors. I have also heard of a additive called HOWES that is supposed to help injectors. My brothers who have 7.3L swear by it. Are most of the injectors on line remans or are there new ones available?. Except for new injectors if I need them I'm almost ready to put this thing back together hopefully for good. I plan on keeping this truck a long time as it is named after my granddaughter!! (2006 F250 King Ranch 4DR long bed.) It has transported her around since she was first born, she is now five.

As always thanks for your help, you have provided great help and assistance.

Whitey Cook

 

Don't bother with the injectors if they are OK now, I got 270k before had to replace any, also there are NO "new" injectors being made, the best reman injectors are the ones from Ford, they are totally rebuilt and redisgned by the original ,manufacture to help get rid of the stiction issue the originals had. Alot of companys just clean them up and put new orings on them and call them rebuilt, the Fords have new plungers,redisigned, as they are the part that caused the stiction issues.

 

bobfbigman,

Hello again, had to stop a couple of days on my truck to get some other stuff done. Back at it again this afternoon. I just finished the install of the standpipe and dummy plug on the drivers side. Hopefully I'll have the EGR cooler and intake back in this evening, leaving only the passenger side standpipe and dummy plug to complete and then put the rest back together. Hope to have it running this weekend.

My questions. Do I need to do anything special as far as getting it ready to start? I think I've read somewhere about leaving the FICM disconnected until oil gets pumped
everywhere, if so how will I know that has happened? Usually my oil pressure gauge does not register until the engine is running.

Also do you happen to know what size wrench fits the IPR valve off of the HPOP? The largest I have is a 32 and it just a little to small. We got it off with a pipe wrench but I would rather have the right size to tighten it.

As always thank you very much for your assistance. I'll let you know how it all works out. I've learned a lot. I've worked cars and engines all my life but never diesels until now.

Again,

Thanks,

Whitey Cook

 

I think it is a 35mm or 38mm, pretty sure it is 35mm though. I got a whole set of big wrenches from Harbour freight and it had the right size in it, some guys cut it so you can remove the IPR with the turbo still installed. 35mm is also the same size as the frame mounted fuel filter.
One thing you can do is to keep the ICP sensor out of the oil rail and the top part of the standpipe out, just push the lower tube part in. fill the standpipe tube up with as much oil as you can then reinstall the top part of the standpipe then using a squirt bottle fill the rest of the oil rail through the ICP port with as much oil as possible, this will help prime the system and help reduce the cranking time. if you can't get it filled enough then leave the ICP sensor out and hold a rag over the port and have someone crank it till you get oil out of it, then reinstall the ICP sensor.
It is also a good idea to have a good battery charger or even jumper cables from another car or truck hooked up while cranking it. I wouldn't unplug the FICM, it won't fire the injectors till the ICP sensor tells the computer that it has 500psi of high pressure oil.

 

bobfbigman,

My son and I finished up the passengers side dummy plug and standpipe, We tried to crank the truck to build pressure to the IPR valve but with the Turbo out it cam out the turbo inlet tube instead.

Anyway we have it all together and have cranked it with fully charged batteries and we have a battery charger up to 200 amps.

We can get it to try and start but no joy as yet. It appears it wants to start but just not quite ready. I do hear a kind of "tac-tac" sound. don't know if that is normal or not?? Do we just need to be more patient or are we missing something?

It would seem to me that Ford would have some type of oil pressurizing system that would pressurize the HPOP before trying to crank the system this much. Just wondering

We have went over everything we did and think we have every thing correct.

I just re-read your last post and am wondering if I'm doing the right thing to prime the HPOP. Where is the ICP port? I thought that was down on the HPOP You can't get to it after the Turbo is installed so are we looking at the right place?

Anyway we will put our batteries on trickle charge overnight and see where we are tomorrow.

As always thank you for your help. We most likely wouldn't have even got this far without your input.

Thanks,

Whitey Cook