No power 04 6.0 powerstroke
 

When i first crank my truck in the morning it has no power and seems like it does not want to shift after it warms a little it is fine no problem at all, then after it sits at work all day it does the same thing it only started when the temp here has started geting cooler. it runs a little crapy first thing as well if i let it sit and idle for 10 or 15 mins befor i drive it then there is no problem. Do you guys think it is the FICM??

Hey eric i kinda have something similar. Still on going. Did you get it fixed? If so what did it turn out to be?

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by the way I have a 04 6.0 too

nope not fixed yet i will keep you updated. hope someone has some advice on here!

What engine oil? Diagnostics ran on the truck yet? Need some scan tool data while the issue is occurring to help with advice.

Snap on solus did a injector buzz test and it passed that glow plug test passed. The codes where a turbo under boost code and a ficm performance code

Have you had the scan tool on the truck when the error occurred? That sounds like ficm, but you would need to watch the data set to know exactly what is going on.

There is a sticky at the top of the page on how to test the FICM, you need an 8mm ratchet, a t-25 torx bit (not positive if this one is right), a multi-meter, an extra set of hands and 4 beers (2 for you, 2 for your partner).

Drink beer.

Use 8mm ratchet to remove coolant bottle from it's mount. It's not necessary to drain any coolant or undo any lines. Wrestle it out of the way, you'll see the FICM laying on the top of the drivers side valve cover.

Use correct torx bit to remove inspection cover, it's a small cover, only 2 screws holding it on.

Under there you will either see 4 screws or 7 screws. These are where we get the terms 4-pin FICM or 7-pin FICM.

Take multimeter and put the red probe on the screw closest to the drivers side fender (for a 4-pin FICM), or if it's a 7-pin, the row with 4 screws in it, put the red probe on the screw farthest away from the drivers side fender. Black probe goes to negative post on battery right there.

Have said buddy slam his beer. Then have him put the key in the ignition, and turn the key to the "run" position, but don't start or crank the truck. When it turns to run, you should hear your injectors buzz. Typically they will start slow and speed up. If it sounds like there is a "miss" to them, your FICM is probably already bad and your voltage should show accordingly. It should read 47-49 volts, typically right around 48. Then you need to read while the motor is cranking, and while it's running. It's tough to crank and not start the truck, so just have your buddy "start" the truck, and keep an eye on the meter while he's cranking. Should be 48 while cranking, and 48 while running. Drink other beer now.

If it's under those numbers at any times, PM me. I can fix it for you. Much cheaper than dealer.

The underboost code is a separate issue and we will take care of that once your truck starts better. :c:

Update this morning the truck would hardly turn over think my batteries are gone would that throw the ficm code as well?

Yes it would. Get batteries load tested, or replace. Replace BOTH batteries, not just one. Even if one tests good and the other is bad, they should always be replaced in pairs. Start there. If it still has issues after that, then test FICM. It really only takes 15 min or so to test the FICM. That includes the beer before you start and the beer after your done :c:

Thanks guys will keep u updated

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Ok guys I replaced my batteries truck starts good now but still dnt have much power first thing and seems like does not want to shift from 2nd to 3rd first thing in the morning then once it shifts it's fine after that shifts like normal. I will can the truck for codes tonight

what kind of scanner are you using?

Snap on solus

How cold is it? I haven't seen a diesel yet that runs good when it's freezing out and you take off after just firing it up. Did you test the FICM yet? Are you getting any smoke out the exhaust when it's running like crap?

Maybe high 50's low 60's. And no I have not checked it yet but no smoke

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What does the metter need to be set on to test the ficm?

direct current (DC). some meters have an auto range, others you wil need to set the range high enough to measure 48 volts

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and that temp I wouldnt really concider that cold enough to affect it that bad but I could be wrong. My truck acts tempermental when its below freezing, but that is a start and drive with an extreme tune. I take it easy untill it motor and tranny get up to temp and it runs fine.

It's been in the 30s here and have had no issue with customers 6.0s they may be a touch rough on initial start up but that's it.

Yeah that's not cold enough to effect it... check the FICM. The sticky is at the top of the page on how to do it. Set it to DC and make sure it can read above the needed 48V, might be a 100 or 200V setting... or auto, depends on the meter.

Just tested the FICM and it drops from 45 to 39 when idleing! is this going to be my problem??

yep, have it fixed. do not buy a new one because it will have the same weak flaws as the one you have now

yes, contact mdub. he fixes them.

That is certainly a problem. Quite common. I've seen a few of them test fine at key on, then cranking, but as soon as the truck fires, voltage drops slowly but surely.

You have good batteries on there right? I can always send you a spare FICM for you to try out too, and you can swap and send me your bum one back as well.

Rough idle , no power
 

I bought a 2005 f250 at an auction, replaced batteries and started truck.. It ran good for about 1 hrs and started running rough and extreme loss of power ... Injectors 3,5,7 came up fixing to replace and noticed metal shavings in oil filter... Anyone seen this before?

Thanks in advance

6.0 loss of power and misfire
 

my 2004 f350 Harley edition 6.0 138,000 recently started idling rough and shaking when driving at a constant speed. quits the moment u lift then get back in fuel but when u level out it starts again. also the truck has absolutely no power when pulling out or driving until you are at least going 30mph. no check engine light was coming on. I did however take the truck to orielly's and scanned it. the following codes came up. P0282-p0284-p0299-p0403-p0405-p0500-and p1000. could anyone please help me with learning exactly what I need or should do to fix the truck as diesel is quite new to me. as I bought the truck for my business since I was needing the ability to tow more weight. if you got any issues at all with a 302 or 351 gas though im your guy. lol

Not sure about your ficm issues but my truck does the same thing when first started. Takes a few mins to warm up and then its fine. It lacks a bit of power takes longer to shift and shifts quite hard. Once its warmed up for 5-10 mins it works like normal.