FICM, ICP, IPR replacement
 

I am replacing my FICM, it died last week, and a leaky ICP sensor. My questions are, should I replace the pigtail also, I don't know what it looks like yet. I also have read alot about replacing or updating the IPR valve. What is the update.

I wouldn't replace the IPR if it's not broke. What are you doing with your busted FICM? Interested in selling it? Or having someone like me fix it? I wouldn't worry about the pigtail on your 06, it was more of an issue on the 03/ early 04.

OK on the IPR, do you know what this upgrade is I have read about, something to do with a screen? My FICM was reading 10.5v with the key on not running, and couldn't get it to turn over. I had the batteries load tested about 2 weeks ago, after your PM, when I was getting new rubber and they are good. I took the opportunity to order a tuned 58v from Innovative. I have plans to upgrade my injectors to 190. I also thought about getting an STC fitting for the HPOP, do you have any opinion on that?

You should do the STC fitting upgrade. 4C3Z-9B246-F

The tuned 58V should do you good. The 58V mod is done by Swamps, and Innovative does the tuning on them, they work in conjunction with each other for this.

What are you going to do for fuel system to support the 190's? What about a turbo?

My only guess as far as the upgraded screen is the new stainless mesh HPOP screen. They're about $20, and it should be done, especially if you're digging in to do the STC fitting on the HPOP.

Is that a Ford part #? What about the screen, Ford? I'll be getting an air dog II, haven't looked into turbos yet, thats after the first of the year.

Yes that is a Ford number...

Looking through my parts lists, I see there is an IPR screen, but I'd have to imagine it'd be something you'd replace if it was broke... not sure if it's an actual upgrade, but might be worth digging in to. PN is 3C3Z-9H529-A.

Planning on running stock turbo with the 190's for a while then? Not going to be doing much towing then I take it? It's gonna be a smoky mofo.

I won't do the injectors until next year also. I should be getting a commission bonus in December that I'm hoping will take care of injectors, fuel delivery and a turbo, at least most of it. If there's any left over, a nice set of K5LA horns.:choochoo:

The FICM core is going back to Innovative.

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By the way, I should probably invest in a code reader so I don't have to go to the stealership to have them read, what do you use?

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I just read about replacing the stand pipes and dummy plugs when doing the STC fitting. What are these? Also, what are banjo bolts?

I use my SCT generally for codes, but I've got Autoenginuity with the enhanced Ford bundle for datalogging and scanning now.

I've got the P/N's for the stand pipes and dummy plugs at work too, same for the banjos. I'll try and explain it more tomorrow.

Don't know that much about turbos yet. I've read alot about powermax. Big picture, I plan on a 36 ft toy hauler in a couple of years and also be able to smoke the occasional mustang/ camaro/ corvette.....i think you get the picture.

I wouldn't run 190's if you're planning on towing that large of a trailer, unless you're dedicated enough to run compounds.

So I replaced the ICP and FICM, but it still takes about 5-8 seconds to turn over, and the batteries, which were fully charged, almost ran down. Now what.....HPOP? Would that be why I have all this oil in the valley and running down my bell housing?

You could very well have a high pressure oil leak causing the hard starting.

This could tie into the stand pipe and dummy plugs too. If the o-rings go on those you're bleeding off high pressure oil and it will have trouble starting.

FWIW, I haven't seen a 6.0 yet that didn't have oil on the bellhousing.

Are the stand pipes the oil supply and drain tubes for the turbo. I have read it could be those. I still haven't found out what dummy plugs are and what banjo bolts are or do.

stand pipes and dummy plugs are part of the high pressure oil system.
Banjo bolts connect the fuel lines to the heads. I hard a hard start issue. I replaced the stc fitting, dummy plgs and standpipes, had a few blown o rings. If your down that far its really up to you. you will have to pull the valve covers and remove the high pressure oil rail. The stand pipe is a two piece construction and will seperate when you pull the top part that is threaded into te rail. some manage to pick it out, I just found it easier to pull the rail. drive side is easy, passenger side is ok once you pull the cover off of the ac condensor.
Do the banjo bolts. took all of minutes to change them.

heres a pic of what you will be dealing with.
Attachment 22197

Not quite. the oil supply and drain tube are the supply and drain tube for the turbo, they are what the name suggets. Yes, there are upgrades for both of these, but they wouldn't cause your hard start issues, all those do is supply oil to the turbo and a way for it to evacuate, it's on the low pressure side of the oil. The high pressure is the side that fires the injectors so if there is an issue there, then yes you will have running/starting issues.

2003 oil rails were different than every year, they had a port front and rear of the head where oil went in/out. The design was changed. Now one of those ports is plugged with a dummy plug, literally just a plug that does nothing else but prevent oil from going out there. It is sealed with o-rings. If the o-ring fails, oil bleeds past, you lose high pressure oil. On the back part there is what is known as the "stand pipes" you can see those in the picture Luke attached. They run from the oil rail up on top of the head, down through the head and to the high pressure oil pump feed lines. I'll highlight them in red on the picture.

The banjo's are on the fuel side of things. If you look where your fuel filter housing is on top of the motor. You'll see a fuel line feeding into the bowl and two lines coming out of the bowl to the front of the heads. Those are the fuel lines that feed diesel into the heads and then to the injectors. Where those fuel lines attach to the heads, you'll see a bolt holding them in. This bolt is actually a check valve. However, for whatever reason in Ford's infinite wisdom, these check valves don't even work like a true check valve. Pressure bleeds off. So a common upgrade is to either modify those check valves by gutting them and removing the internals, and drilling out the feed holes larger, or just buy the ebay "open banjo bolts". Now Ford has made their own version and they use them on the 6.4. So a lot of 6.0 guys just buy the 6.4 bolts and washers. You're basically just opening up the biggest restriction on the fuel system of a 6.0. For a stock truck, it probably wont matter, but someone running hot tunes may benefit from more sustained fuel pressure. It's not a be-all end-all solution, but it is just opening up that restriction some what. It's a cheap and easy upgrade.

Here's some pics. Below is the stock banjo bolts holding the fuel lines to the heads:

Passenger side:
Attachment 40194

Drivers side far away:
Attachment 40195

Drivers side closer up:
Attachment 40196


This is what you get to fight with if you're lucky like me and have dual alternators. It's a major PITA with dual alts...
Attachment 40197

Everything out of the way on the passenger side (single alt guys can do this side in about 5 min, mine took over an hour.)
Attachment 40198

Here's a comparison of the bolts.
Left side is one of the ebay bolts. They were like $25 shipped. It's a completely open design, and it has 3 large ports at the top to feed the head. The 6.4 stockers have 4 smaller ports, same deal though. The middle bolt is a supplied bolt in my vegistroke kit that goes in the back of the heads, but it's the same thing as the ebay bolt, I was just making a comparison for some of the veggie guys, so it doesn't really apply here. On the right is the stock check valve. Notice how small the entry holes are near the bolt head, also notice the "guts" on the inside.

Attachment 40199

Attachment 40200

Damn, thats alot of good knowledge you just hit me with. So, I am taking the truck to the stealership to have my door keypad reset and read codes. Ill let them tell me where the leak probably is. STC fitting, pipes, banjos, and anything else i can come up here I come...thanks for the info.:c::c:

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Oh, and that dual alt. looks nasty. What is the purpose?

I believe it's under the ambulance prep package. It's just for trucks that will be powering a lot of accessories. It's more of a PITA to me than anything, but I guess it's cool to say I have two alts right? It was on the truck when I bought it, I got it used with 14k miles on it, so it wasn't exactly something that would hinder me from buying the truck you know?

I can tell you how to reprogram your keypad too if you want, so you don't have to pay the dealer to do it. It would probably take you all of 10 minutes to do the keypad on the door and the fobs. I guess if you have to get codes read it doesn't really matter though.

does it start harder when its cold or warmer?

When it's cold. I don't seem to have a problem when it's warm, but I can't get it to turn over at all now; cranks for about 5 seconds, then click click click. Somebody else told me to have the batteries load tested, which I had done about a month ago; tested good, and have the alt tested too. It has never died on me while driving, so I don't know why I would need the alt. load tested. I have a feeling the batteries are shot. I bought the truck used and the batteries look new and have a sticker on them dated 3/11. but the seller could have cleaned them and put the sticker on them, I can't reach him anymore, :bat: Looking at Interstate Megatron II, CCA 875.

I charged them overnight and am going to try to limp it over to the stealership this afternoon. I told them I had an oil leak and they offered to take a parking lot peek. I'll have them load test everything while I'm there.

That's a good idea. Definitely sounds like the batteries are weak, or something else in the starting system. Does it start any easier if you plug it in?

No

So.... new batteries and it cranks like a dream now, but still takes 5-6 seconds to start. Getting a puff of white smoke but idles pretty smoth and starts easier when warm. I'm going to tear into it next week and replace the following.....
stand pipes, dummy plugs, o-rings, oil supply and return lines, stc fitting, banjo bolts, recondition the turbo, and replace the oil cooler. Could use some suggestions on a cooler:tu: I should probably do studs since most of it will be torn down, but need to save some dough for that one.

OEM Ford oil cooler.

Sounds like a great plan of attack though. Do you know anyone with a scanner? Your smoke on start up, is it a fuel smell? You may just have an injector hanging up. I'd recommend trying some Rev-X, unless you know someone with a scanner of some sort and can get a cylinder contribution test done as well as an injector buzz test.

I'm all about learning how to myself if you have the wisdom.:c:

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Sounds like a great plan of attack though. Do you know anyone with a scanner? Your smoke on start up, is it a fuel smell? You may just have an injector hanging up. I'd recommend trying some Rev-X, unless you know someone with a scanner of some sort and can get a cylinder contribution test done as well as an injector buzz test.[/quote]

I have some Rev-X on the way, along with some Opti-lube. Don't know anyone with a scanner, but am considering buying one.