Hard to start W/codes 06 6.0l
 

:argh:Hey all, Well I have a book/noval of codes going on. Symptons are very hard to start cold, blowing black and grey smoke out the tail pipes (alternates colors) and when I finaly get her started and warmed up go to drive drive her and at about 2,200rpm she wants to bog out and starts blowing black and grey (alternating) smoke.
Codes are many.

P0261,264,267,270,273,276,279,282 -all being inj ckt low volts

p0611 FICM module performance

p0401 ahh the egr code can deal w/ this from past post reads.

po500 vehical speed sensor malfunction. have replace speed sensor/abs sensor in rear-end but have not been able to get her down the road yet to see if that fixed the problem. Did check the plug and terminals and wiring all looked ok.

p2614 cam pos sensor output ckt/open

p2617 crank shaft output ckt/open

Ok thats the noval of codes.

Cleared codes and ran inj buzz test and all the inj ckt low volts codes came back.
As for the injector ckt codes and FICM codes checked that I had good volts (with scanner) at pid's vbat, lpwr, vpwr, all better than 11.98 volts. ign on engine off.

koeo test passed

koer codes came back as p0611 and p2617

Should i address the crank sensor first or would the injector low volts cause the crank code because it is not seeing the correct type of engine rpm and correct pwr output from the cylinders?
thanks yours truely,
lost in this pwr stroke.

Sounds like a combination of plugged EGR valve and a dead/dying FICM.

Read this and test the FICM: 6.0's, FICM's and Cold Start Problems - PowerStrokeNation

If you need help with it, PM me I'll give you my cell # and walk you through the test, it's easy. I would bet you'll find the FICM isn't putting out the right voltage. 8 injectors don't usually all go bad at once.

Going out to remove cover and check FICM volts.
 

Test sounds like a can do for me. Thank you.

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Initial key on the voltage goes to 18.5 then to 48.3vlts. (on the terminal furthest to the drivers side fender (L/S). While cranking the engine the voltage fluctuates between 22.7-31.2-45. It seems like as the voltage encreases IE. 45 the smoke at the tail pipe (useing passenger side mirror goes from the grey smoke to black. Also sounds like may be getting a little cough back through the intake while cranking.

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Well in desperation to get the truck started (cranking a massage indicator came on in the speedo TBC FAULT what have I done now.:s: Have to go get kids. check back later.

TBC is just the brake controller, I've heard of it doing similar things when trying to crank a truck a lot when it's not starting right. I wouldn't worry about that right now. So what was your FICM voltage with the truck actually running? You have key on engine off, and cranking, but what about when it's running, that's when a few of the one's I have fixed drop. So far it's looking like the FICM is at fault here... Where are you located? You should update some of your info so we know where you are, what you drive and what mods you have on the truck, it will help us in the future to diagnose.:c:

Yeah thats normal ive had hpo system repairs and you crank the truck forever and a day til it fires and the ABS light will come on, the Air bag light will come on the Brake light will come on the TBC fault message will appear the glow plug light comes on.... thats normal for cranking for an extended period of time its taking all the batteries voltage and amperage to crank the engine so it starves other modules that are less important to start it.

Replace that ficm.

Anyone know of FICM near Buffalo WY. 06 f250 6.0
 

In need of new FICM for 06 F250 6.0l. Voltage is dropping to 22vlts and fluctuating during cranking. Truck wont start. But it is blowing smoke out the tail pipe. Its 57 deg. here today.
Oil temp is reading 83 deg coolant temp is reading 57 deg. ??? Any more advise before I try and throw a FICM at it? Hate putting a part on when not sure if its for sure bad.

I can fix them. PM me, I've got one sitting in my garage ready to go.:c:

Running voltage is 22volts
 

Cranked and cranked finally started. Mdub707 tried to pm you but says I have to have ten post or more. Not sure what to do?

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Just posting trying for ten.

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Post post

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:argh: LOL I'll get the hang of this sooner or later

now post again so it doesn't automerge your post, Mdub has you covered, knows what he is talking about

Maybe I can PM you??? I will try.

THANKS MDUB707
 

Just wanted to say thanks to all. Got that FICM rebuilt and trucks a runnin again.https://www.dieselbombers.com/images/smilies/cheers.gif

Glad to hear it! Thanks for the update too. We always offer advice and rarely get to hear the outcome! :c:

Just an FYI, when you have had a failed FICM, it is wise to make sure the batteries and charging system are completely healthy.

Thanks for the battery & charging info.
 

I did repace both batteries about 2 months ago. went ahead and checked my charging system. It is charging at 13.5-14 volts. :tu:
Well now its time to adress the EGR code. Think I will try to pull it off and clean it and the passages first. I should be able to start the truck and blow any carbon out of the exhuast side I would thinkm, and check that the intake side is getting a strong vacume. (not to carbond-up to get a good flow) Then clean the egr with some carb cleaner? Not sure till I get it off exactly what I'll be looking for. If any of you have tried this fix maybe you could give me a few hints. May just be wasting my time but if it will get me by for a few more months or more it'll be worth it.

Yes, take the EGR valve out and clean it really well with some carb cleaner. Be sure not to damage the o-rings for the EGR valve as well. My guess is it's caked up so bad you're going to have a hard time even getting it out. A pry bar is your friend.

Bismic1 has brought it to my attention that you should ONLY use CARB cleaner on the EGR valve, per Ford, NOT BRAKE cleaner. Thanks Bismic1!

Thanks will get to it this weekend hopefully. Yes rubber o-rings and carb cleaner not a good mix. As far as brake cleaner is best used on brakes, and any time you may be spraying around rubber also good for cleaning say a fitting hole were oil is sitting and you want to apply lock tight to the fitting, but does little to help clean carbon build up.

No problem.

Here is the reference for Carb cleaner and not Brake cleaner:

At about 1:40 in the Ford Presentation below, they state NOT to use Brake Cleaner:
mms://multimedia.ford.com/seopts/Tech_31_250k.wmv

You will need Windows Media Player to play the video.

And also refer to old TSB 06-19-6 ......... IIRC