Welding v.s. Buying a EGR Delete Kit??
 

Ok, so im doing my headstuds 4th of July weekend (Cab on BTW and will be posting a pics and a write up) While im eyeball deep in engine i thought i would do the EGR delete. Ive read and read all these guys arguing and bashing each other but i want to know what works.... whats the best route to take. Diesel Dog can get me the sinister delete kit for $300 but if i can weld it up myself without issues id rather use that $300 on the SCT i want go get DIRECTLY after the headstuds! I know what the system does but what do i weld to block it off ?? I was told there are a few gaskets i need to replace on it also.

If anyone can help me out i would be thrilled.

You will need to take the cooler off the truck and weld freeze plugs in both ends of it. For the side that touches the up-pipe, you will need to push the plug in a 1/4" or so and FILL that whole area with weld, to prevent the heat from the up-pipe from destroying it. You can take this further and use some stainless steel plating insted of doing the weld fill. You can also cut the scoop out of the stock up-pipe if you wish, but even with it there no flow goes to the cooler/valve anymore. I would take the intake manifold out and have it hot-tanked to clean the gunk that's already there out while doing this job. The valve you can just leave there, or weld it shut, or whatever.

I did an RCD cooler/valve delete, with a solid up-pipe. It was $185 shipped on ebay. I see similar knock-off kits for even less now, just up to what you want to do, they serve the same function. The sinister is the same as the RCD.

So with the RCD you just bolt and go?? and my father in law is a truck driver. He is getting me a gallon of this acid they use to clean the grime off their truck. Ive seen this stuff in action and it is pretty awesome. Going to plug all holes and fill her up let it sit and repeat till its spotless.

Bolt and go yeah.

What are you doing for gaskets?

OEM I dont really know where to order them, you know of any other odds and ends ill need. I figure manifold gaskets also. Just dont know what is "Reusable" or of the reusables what is going to be needed changed anyway.

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I looked and the RCD its at $285 now :ouch:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FORD-...#ht_526wt_1165

I found this one but once again i dont know if its what i need.:argh::argh::argh:

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No gaskets in that one either

I'd weld up the manifold and just tap a 90* coolant fitting in the bottom to feed the oil cooler. Weld up the EGR valve as well.

Then all you need is the up pipe. either buy one, or take yours off, cut the T off it and remove the scoop from inside.

Keep looking, every time they put 10 of those on, they'll throw one up there for $225, with a "make an offer" option, that's how I got it, and I know others have.



If removing the cooler completely, I would replace the up-pipe, they will crack very easily without the cooler there to help support it.

I think im just going to buy the sinister kit. Got to get the thing soon to be safe. Im going to have 4 days to get the head studs done but like i said ill post a lot of pics and everything.

Here's an RCD for $160 buy it now bud... 6.0L 6.0 Ford Powerstroke EGR Valve Delete Package | eBay

Done deal haha

holy shit! that was a damn good price!

Just got purchased...... not quite sure of the pricing for OEM head-gasket sets but i found this also

Ford 6.0 Litre diesel engine head gasket kit 6C3Z6051AA | eBay

That link for gaskets is PER SIDE just FYI. That will only do one head. I haven't really priced OEM out just yet, I've only recently decided that's what I'm going to use.

From the few prices i have seen they are between 300-320

Black Onyx

Ive heard bad things about the Black Onyx..... I was told that OEM holds up the best

I've heard that as well.

The black onyx are not the correct thickness even uncompressed, once compressed they're even farther off.

my egr delete cost $15. :jump:
I'll post picks tonight, woman is suppost to let me borrow a camera to add picks to my thread.

I cant even find anyone that sells OEM..... Is that a dealer only part?? I found one listing on ebay

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Just called dealer and they said $98????????????? No friggin way

and yes thats for BOTH

Something cant be right

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UPDATE haha

Ok i went up there with the guys name because i called back and said i thought he gae me a price for the wrong part. He said it was the right part. Got up there it was Valve cover gaskets haha. Then he was like "Ok i got the right ones now and they are even cheaper.... $16 bucks a piece hahaha!!! Idk who hired this guy. I would figure if your working in the PARTS department at a FORD DEALER you should know what a d*** head gasket is. Idiots i tell ya!

https://www.dieselbombers.com/member...ess-welded.jpg
https://www.dieselbombers.com/member...3-delete-2.jpg
https://www.dieselbombers.com/member...round-3-8s.jpg
I didn't do the last one. guess thats what I get for letting some one else help me. oh well, nothing a die grinder cant handle.

Good looking mod Luke!! Yep it's just that easy folks.

:td:You will hate your life. I dont even do factory head gaskets in cab. nobody can convince me that its either easier or faster Have fun trying to get the back head bolts out. And unless you have a engine crane and a bracket have fun lifting those heads off.

Ive done only 1 in cab and wont ever do it again. Only because it was an ambulance body F series and the last one of those i did, i chopped the main harness for the lights and sirens with a pair of bolt cutters and forgot to splice it all back together and the gasket around the cab leaked when it rained so i wasnt allowed to ever do it again on an ambulance. Anyways your going to have almost no room to get an impact even with a swivel 18 to get the back head bolts that are on the drivers side theyre right against the fire wall, i remember bashing the firewall in with the biggest mallet i had. Then the really shitty part was breaking the air conditioning and heater core box when iwas removing that, then after zip tieing the head bolts as suggested by ford, trying to tip the heads to the perfect angle without dropping them on the frame or floor and then removing them... Good thing i blew my back out after that otherwise that ambulance would have sat for 2 weeks before it got any work done to it. Stood on the drag bar and bent over to lift em. Then the fun part is torqueing the head bolts and doing the 3 90s in cab. F*CK THAT! at least with studs your doing 70 140 210 90* run it hot then another 90*. the other guy up here pulls the engine out to do em, i can have the a/c system completely evacuated and the cab would have been ready for lift off 10 minutes before the a/c machine is done.

Well some of us dont have the ability to take the cab off. It can and will be done headache or not. I dont do this for a living so one time the hard way is better than running a hot tune and blowing my gaskets.

Tips or anything to help would be a lot more apreciated than saying have fun with it and your life is going to suck........

Cheers :c:

So buy a crane and rip the motor out. Youll have to remove the turbo to pull the motor otherwise youd have to remove the 2 19mm nuts by the lower support and the front cab bolts and jack the body up with a floor jack and put 4x4s under the front of the cab.

Obviously youd rip the whole front end out grille, radiator, intercooler, condensor, shrouds. The other guy gets an engine out taking his time in 2 hours. Let me ask you this, what do you have for tools?

Taking the engine out is the hardest and most time consuming way. I've seen it done in cab a few times. It is more difficult than cab off obviously, but can be done. For the pesky bolts back by the firewall you can't get out you can just dent the firewall in with a sledge (redneck, but it's behind insulation so you'll never see it), I've also heard you can jack the rear of the transmission up to lower the motor, or undo one motor mount at a time and rock the motor to the side.

powerstroketech, why are you doing 90* torque method on studs? ARP specifically recommends NOT to do that.

More clamping force... until i have a come back or break a stud or some sort of failure ill keep doing it that way. Just like the STC brackets. I installed 2 in a row on a truck and had no start and air checked still leaked at pump, guess what? I dont do 5 turns in and 49 ftlbs, i just put the plastic T on and crank them in as tight as i can without the bracket turning. Been doing it that way for years now and had not had 1 hpoil concern since. Just like the CAC hose clamps. I used to clean em with brake clean and torqued em to specs and had em pop off not even under full boost I run them things in with my air ratchet til they cant get any tighter. Never had 1 break, or break 1000s of miles down the road. Just like before ford updated the stand pipes and dummy plugs, I replaced them with the LCF stand pipes and dummy plugs. Which is now what the updated 6.0 stand pipes and dummy plugs are.

I dont think pulling the motor is the hardest or time consuming. But then again i rip these trucks apart every single day. Doing it in cab. No way. Wont do it.

Some of us just don't have any other option than to do it in cab, but want it to get done.

You wont break the stud doing the 90* method, the block is softer than the stud. ARP has warnings right on their website about doing it this way.

I know I had ARP's put in at a Ford dealer at one point. My headgaskets have never lasted such a short time before. Needs to be done again.

If your torque angle method works for you, great, but it hasn't worked for a lot of people.

Taken from ARP's website:

The Torque Angle Method


Since the amount that a bolt or nut advances on the thread per degree of rotation is determined by the thread pitch, it would appear that any amount of stretch in a given bolt or stud can be accurately predicted be measuring the degrees of turn from the point where the underside of the bolt head or nut face contacts the work surface. Termed the "torque angle" method, this procedure has long been the standard of civil engineering. It has been suggested that torque angle is a relatively simple and valid procedure to use in "blind" installations—where it is not possible to physically measure the actual bolt stretch.

ARP has conducted extensive evaluations of the torque angle method, and concluded that – for high performance engine applications – it is suitable only when calibrated for each installation.

Our investigation has proven that installed stretch is dependent not only on the pitch of the thread and the degree of rotation, but also on the amount of compression of the clamped components, the type of lubrication, the length of the male fastener, and the amount of engaged thread. It's important to note that for the same degree of rotation, the amount of bolt stretch will be critically different between an aluminum or cast iron cylinder head, or when installing a steel main cap on a cast iron or aluminum block. Furthermore, there is a significant difference in stretch between the long and short cylinder head bolts or studs on the same head. The torque angle method can be accurate – but only if each individual application has been previously calibrated by direct measurement of bolt stretch. If you do employ the torque angle method, it's best to begin calibrating rotation from some small measured torque rather than the first point of contact with the work face. To achieve optimum accuracy, always use ARP Ultra-Torque® fastener assembly lubricant whenever possible.



Wanna do my headgaskets? Maybe I'll be your first come-back? :tttt:

Two of my injectors are bad!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


:argh::argh::argh::argh::argh::argh::argh::argh::a rgh::argh:


Looks like i will be replacing those also. Im just putting in a new set..... RCD has got some 90hps for 1,400

That price is probably not for new injectors. In fact, I know it's not. You want new from Ford, and if you want bigger injectors, you pretty much have to buy new Ford and send them to a builder, or find a builder that starts with new Ford's. Now, Ford's are "remans" but they seem to be one of the only places that gets them right. Stay far away from places like Pensacola diesel and pretty much any other place that is that cheap, cause they're not new.

Now, lubeowner (famous on some of the other powerstroke forums) is offering a service to rebuild these, including freeing up sticking spool valves, which no one else does to my knowledge (maybe Ford), for $100 per injector. Jwarren is also selling some injectors from PSA and PSN, he'd be another one that should have good stuff.

Ive heard nothing but bad things about rcd's injectors. swamps injectors are expensive, but they start w/ a brand new injector straight from ford then after building them they test them for 4000 firings.There other good builders out there just not rcd

That is from Remans from ford......... its 2,600 but there is a 1,200 core charge for your old ones.

River City Diesel
option=com_virtuemart&page=shop.product_details&fl ypage=flypage.tpl&category_id=47&product_id=112&It emid=54

Do you have their website or maybe a phone number i can reach them at. Its pretty much crunch time for me. I need to get them soon to make sure i get them before i leave for ga. Thanks for all the help.

On a side note the cab might be coming off........ Just not the normal way. Should be interesting!

Call Innovative and talk to them, they sell almost every brand of injector. I too have heard nothing but terrible things about RCD injectors, though they may have changed their process at some point. Innovative will have almost any injector you're looking for, including their own.

The only problem i am having right now is i just spent a S*** ton of money on gaskets, studs, egr delete, and all that jazz. Gotta have money to drive down to ga. Whats the normal cost of these injectors going to be...... I can do 1,400 easy but they want 1,200 for core charge and ill get that back god knows when. These injectors going out killed me on this trip. Ill call innovative tomorrow and hopefully get this worked out. Thanks guys

Remans are probably going to be my choice because of the situation im in

They are ALL remans, even the Ford ones, there is no such thing as a "new" 6.0 injector any more. I believe Alliant remans the injectors for Ford.

$1400 wont get you new injectors. Just part of the game. You can just replace the ones that are giving you trouble instead of doing all 8 as well. Have you tried adding Rev-X yet?

Ford injectors also come with a 12 month/12,000 mile warranty, so factor that in. I wouldn't trust RCD's injectors just yet, but that's me.