so i took the truck out to see if I could find one of those laser temp guns you told about and i had to turn around and come home. the truck would not get up to speed for nothing, even going down hill... earlier today I was looking for any chance that the up-pipe was cracked or leaking without having to take apart the top end and I couldn't see anything wrong, but then again i didn't dismantle the whole thing like I figured I would. I didn't notice any smoke though, and while I was letting the truck idle so i could listen and everything, she still didn't smoke. Now, there's the piece of rubber tube that comes up from the head and into the air intake (what I thought the up-pipe was at first) and noticed that there is white smoke coming from it... is that normal? Also, truck still won't hot start... it will warm start (after the truck drives around the block or is idling for a few minutes), but after I took her on the highway to find that gun, she wouldn't kick back over...

 

agreed, something is going on here, try the temp gun and go from there, get a ride to store to keep the truck cold so u can figure it out, let us know what you find,this will help limit the amount of work to find what is going on

 

My guess is still high pressure oil leak and a combination of headgaskets/egr cooler. Get a picture of the rubber hose you're talking about. I think it's just the crank case vent. It shouldn't have white smoke coming from it at all, that's usually caused from blow-by, which means there is cylinder pressure leaking past some piston rings.

 

agreed with the little rubber hose, it is just a vent for the crankcase, it is also where all the oil comes from that you will sometimes see oosing out of the air tubes around the turbo, this is basically just a PCV valve, it should be hooked up though but it won't cause these problems

 

hey so like everyone else said check the egr valve, i'd check the voltage in the FICM (fuel injection control module), high pressure oil pump, and it sounds weird but check the tranny. I blew a tranny an it was lugging, smoking, idleing funny, going into limp mode and wouldnt go over 30. Did alota weird stuff and since u have reverse problems id definetly check it out. My tranny didnt even seem to have problems until all that. I've also blow an egr cooler, a turbo, tranny, and had a bad FICM Good luck with everythin. And since your in cali you cant do egr delete but id go with the Bullet Proof Diesel egr cooler

 

powerstroke74... that's what i had thought too at first... I'm taking everything one step at a time in trying to find the problems... she's my first diesel, so i want the best for her, even if that means taking the 6.0 out and putting in a Cummins...
but, before I do that, I'm gonna learn my engine

thanks for all ya'lls help! I won't be able to do much to her again until this weekend.

 

As far as the drum sound coming from the intake i will have to say from rebuilding two 6.0 motors that you have a bad injector or a bent pushrod. Also i am having the same trouble with the whole no power but i think it is to do with the icp sensor. The only way to tell for sure is to have someone with a really good diagnostic testor hook it up to your truck so you can pull codes and view the PIDs.

 

hopefully it is just a bad injector... thanks for the thoughts... gonna work on pulling the engine apart Saturday... any tips on where to start since this is my first diesel fix up?

 

did anybody check the air filter?

 

Well the first thing you need to do is get a scanner and see which injector it is after you get the code of such cylinder contribution balance has a fault you can start from there. Now from sitting in the truck the cylinder firing goes as this right side from front to back is 1,3,5,7 and the left side from front to back is 2,4,6,8. But more than likely from my experience the most common injectors to go are 5 and 3 but you can't be shore unless you get a scanner. I take that back I have found that if you take the valve covers off and start the motor you will see if there is any oil squirting from the top of each injector the ones that don't are your bad injectors. But I would highly recomend getting a scanner to pull all codes even if your check engine like ain't on you should still have codes on what is wrong.