Runs rough several codes
 

Just to set the scenario straight a few months ago I layed my truck on its side and messed up the body and some supspension components. I was able to fix the suspension and got it running good or so it seemed. First of all the cold starts are terrible especially if I don't have it plugged in, I have to let it idle for at least 5 or 10 min b4 I can some what drive it. Now where the rough running comes into play is mainly cruising or speeding up anywhere from 1500 to 2250 RPM. It feels like a gas engine misfire, that little spudder, ya know. No check engine light or anything except the WIF light which I already replaced both fuel filters so I'm pretty sure the WIF sensor is screwed too. So I hooked up a buddies Superchip programmer and these were the codes it gave me: P0261, P0264, P0267, P0270, P0273, P0276, P0279, P0282, P0272, P0284, P0603, P0611, P0672, P0676, P0678, P2269.

I have searched and searched online but can't seem to pinpoint what it might be. Would the rollover have caused any engine damage? Please any help would be greatly appreciated, this is my 1st diesel so I'm a little lost. I know gas engines real well and don't wanna just guess on this one.

Thanks

john

I'd say your Ficm is Bad. Here's how to find out

How to check your FICM for proper voltage output.
(Perform this check when the engine is completely cold.)


1. Remove the two bolts that hold the coolant reservoir to the cowl and push the reservoir out of the way forward and to your right. You do not need to disconnect any of the hoses.
2. On top of the FICM is a small cover held on by two #20 Torx screws; remove these two screws and pry the cover off.
3. On 2003 and early 2004 trucks, you will see 7 screw heads under the cover. On 2004 and later trucks you will see 4 screws.

4 screw FICM

4. Take a multi-meter set on DC volts and connect the ground lead to battery negative, and with the key ON measure the voltage at the screw on your right—closest to the driver’s side fender. Do not let the probe short against the case! The voltage should be right at 48 volts. Anything between 47 and 49 is good.
5. Have an assistant cycle the key and measure the voltage during the initial key-on buzz test. Voltage should not drop below 46 volts.
6. Next measure the voltage while cranking the engine. If voltage stays at or above 45-46 volts, the FICM is fine. Abnormally low battery voltage can give a false low FICM voltage reading, so make sure your batteries are good.

P0261 Injector #1 low
P0264 Injector #2 low
P0267 Injector #3 low
P0270 Injector #4 low
P0273 Injector #5 low
P0276 Injector #6 low
P0279 Injector #7 low
P0282 Injector #8 low

P0272 Balance Fault Injector #4
P0284 Balance Fault Injector #8

P0603 Keep alive memory fault

P0611 Fuel Injection Control Module (FICM)

P0672 Glow Plug #2 fault
P0676 Glow Plug #6 fault
P0678 Glow Plug #8 fault

P2269 Water in Fuel

You could have a wiring harness issue to have so many injector faults as I don't think the truck could run at all with all 8 injectors broken. You could very well have broken injectors though as the contribution balance fault comes from the truck trying to keep the engine running by firing other injectors harder to make up for failed injectors I think. I had my #1 and #8 injectors to fail and the engine threw a contribution balance fault as a result.

You should get the voltage at the FICM checked but with an error I think that you'll find it's not registering the 48v it should register.

The glow plug faults lead me to suspect (and I'm not the expert so my suspicion is suspicious in any case) validation of faults in the #2, #6, and #8 injectors at least.

Then again, all the connections could be loose and just ensuring a solid connection would solve your ailments.

I'm guessing that in addition to the cold start and lagging power that your fuel economy has gone WAY down (like in half or even worse). If you have a good Ford dealer, they can scan with the WDS or you could find an AutoEnginuity tool...

I recommend a trip to the dealer or a reputable repair shop that knows the 6.0L diesel. I found mine through the BulletProofDiesel site (I am changing out a bad EGR cooler though not injectors, glow plugs, and FICM).

Hope this is helpful and not (too) hurtful. Sorry my friend. I feel for you.

Thank you so much I'm gonna try that test this weekend and clear the codes and see what's up. And yes my mpg is around 15 hwy I think and it feels just like some or all cylinders are helping another one.

BTW I rolled the truck a week after a bought it. Ya it sucks :argh: