6.0 blows white smoke, looses coolant, oil out turbo
 

I have had to have my EGR Cooler changed three times now,I paid for the first and the next two were still under warrenty. They only lasted about 10 months each. Last week it started blowing white smoke again and loosing coolant. I thought it was the EGR cooler again, it's been 8 months this time. Now today, I go to move the truck to the garage and see a streak coming from under the truck. I now have oil running out of the turbo where the metal pipe goes onto the back of it. The metal pipe that goes down the back on the motor. The oil runs out of the clamp

Any ideas would be a big help.

what all is done to the truck? and u say the metal pipe going into the back of the turbo? theres one on top, supply, and one on bottom, the return. idk of any metal lines that go down the back of the motor that has oil in it.

maybe u can get some pics of it for us?

I have had all kinds of problems with this truck...we just put new heads on a month ago.
As for the metal pipe, it is the 3 inch pipe that goes out the rear of the turbo. it is an exhaust pipe that is leaking oil out of the clamp.

Problems one is loosing antifreeze internally and blowing white smoke

problem two is oil leaking out of clamp

Don't know if same problem or different

the burnin coolant can only be one of 2 things, the egr cooler or head gaskets again. did u stud it when u done head gaskets? did u have the heads decked and checked out?

is it a serious leak out the exhaust clamp, or do u just see some black wetness around the clacmp? if its just a lil, it could be putting enough coolant into the exhaust to make it wet and leak out the clamp. is the exhaust piece ur talking about the up pipes or the down pipe?

The VNT turbos on the 6.0L Fords are notorious for failing. There are several reasons they can go out. More than likely when your EGR cracked the last time you ran some coolant through the turbo, this can heavily score the bearing because the coolant takes all the lubricity out of the oil. Once the bearings in the turbo are scored it is only a matter of time before it dies completely.

The other thing that may be causing the oil to come out of the Down Pipe is the crank case breather design on those trucks. So for example on a Cummins the crank case breather is a tube running out of the top of the valve cover and down the side of the block venting to atmosphere. On the Powerstrokes and the Duramaxes the crank case vent is plumbed into the intake manifold, the problem with this is it puts the vent under constant vacuum and over time you suck oil from the heads into the intake filling the intercooler pipes, intercooler, and eventually the turbo with oil. The turbo should never have oil in the housings, only in the center section. So the oil begines building up on the turbine fins and can cause clipping of the fins on the turbo housing eventually destroying the turbo completely.

I have replaced more stock turbos than I care to remember on those trucks. My personal advice would be to delete the EGR completely and do a crank case reroute which will vent the crank case to a catch can instead of your intake. Here are a few helpful links.

BD BDD1032175 6.0L PowerStroke Crank Case Filter Kit

Sinister MFG. EGR Delete Kit for 03-07 6.0L Ford Power Stroke


Best of luck and I hate to hear that you are going through this. But you are not the only one to have these problems. But there is a fix.

biged,

I did not stud with the new heads. And I got brand new heads from Ford so they were not checked. And was was a small strean of oil, yes it was oil and not wetness


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alligator Vinny,

Thank you for your input. With the EGR Delete, do you still change the oil cooler this time?

You have similar issues spelled out in this issue:

http://www.ntshoptools.com/magazines...063_eprint.pdf

I would get ahold of Bulletproof Diesel

I always change the oil cooler out at the same time. It is much easier to do while you already have everything apart. If you don't do it when you do the EGR delete it will cost you double in labor to have it doen after everything is put back together.

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That is an awesome link! Good read for sure! Thanks, I have installed a few of their aftermarket EGR coolers, mixed reviews though. 2 of them cracked just like the stock ones the other 3 seem to be holding just fine. Their theory makes perfect sense. Increase flow decrease heat:tu:

[QUOTE=Alligator Vinny;634914]I always change the oil cooler out at the same time. It is much easier to do while you already have everything apart. If you don't do it when you do the EGR delete it will cost you double in labor to have it doen after everything is put back together.

I wanted to make sure I still have to change the oil cooler with the EGR delete. That's the way I'm gonna go. I ordered of the link you gave.

And labor is free because a friend owes me big time and he is doing it with my help.

Thanks again for your help

Increasing flow doesn't always decrease heat. If the coolant passes through too fast, it physically will not have enough time to dissipate heat from the coolant to the surrounding materials. It's the same concept as taking the thermostat out of the cooling system. A lot of times the thermostat not only serves the function of quicker warm-ups, but once it's open, the housing still limits flow, in order to allow the coolant to dissipate heat properly. If it runs through the radiator (or in this case the EGR cooler) too fast, it will just hold the heat.

As a note on the heads, new heads from Ford come in out of spec, so that doesn't mean they're right. They still need to be decked. Studs would have been nice to put in.

A lot of times if you have what looks like oil out of the downpipe, especially since you're having coolant issues, it is coolant mixing with soot and it looks/feels similar to oil.

This is my work truck and I couldn't wait to get the studs shipped in so i didn't go that root.

It ended up being the EGR cooler went bad. what I thought was oil was the fluid mixed with the carbon so it looked like oil but wasn't.

Thank you all who helped. You saved me alot of headache and time that I don't really have right now.

Glad to hear you got back on the road. Just so you know you can do the head studs once the cab is back down and the engine is back together. I have had to do a few of these weird jobs were a shop was not available and tools were limited.

You can jack the engine up a bit and undo the motor mounts once the motor mounts are loose you can then lower the engine down just enough to get the clearance needed to do the head studs.

yea, I was told you have to remove the cab to change the heads but we didn't. I guess I got lucky. We just removed the ac/heat box.