FICM failures?
 

Ok: so now that I have verified that my FICM is faulty, what causes these things to just suddenly go bad? I've heard some stories about voltage surges from a failing alternater to bad batterys, others have said that they are like light bulbs.... good one second bad the next? I just got my new autoenginuity scanning diagnostic program, and that was the first code to pop up. I had three codes. p6011- ficm, p1000- computer test incomplete, I forget the whole code for the last but it was a low turbo boost.? I can have my ficm repaired but what will keep it safe from happening again? is it poor construction, heat and vibration ? when I have it repaired I'll have the option of increasing the output voltage to the injectors, does the increase make the injectors more efficient in their operation? or will it cause the injectors to run alittle hotter? any input would greatly appriciated, I'm gonna pull it out tonight.:humm:

Call Swamps diesel and talk to Dave Armstrong. He will Set you up with an FICM that is built stronger than the factory one. And you can up the voltage to 58V if you choose to. the stock ones fail because the solder joints are weak and fail because they split apart and loose voltage flow

what kind of gains do you see from changing to the 58V?

I've never seen dyno sheets for it, but i hear it's a 40 HP gain. The 48v is perfectly fine too just doesn't give you any extra power....

extra power is always nice ha

Do you have a number for Swamps diesel. I was thinking about sending it to the board medic's . I will probably do the resolder my self, but the increase in voltage looks pretty nice ?? the cost is about 300$ give or take..:humm: we'll see. any sources to get the silicone boot's for the intake tubes, I pulled my truck down last night, and removed the intake tubes just to clean things up while I had it apart and I found that I have another boot going away, these are ford pieces the second set in a 100k, I think I would like to try another brand? any ideas ?

BD power has a decent boot set up for them, try them out and see what you think

thanks I saw them this weekend I was on line looking around, the price seems comparable.

Swamp's Diesel Performance
304-A Sand Hill Rd.
LaVergne, TN 37086

office# 615-793-5573
fax# 615-793-5572
email- dave@swampsdiesel.com


And i would recommend doing the CCV Mod and you won't have this problem anymore.

thanks I'll give them a call. what is the CCV mod?

crankcase vent mod. Stock, our crankcase vents into the intake right in front of the turbo, and this causes your oily boots. Some guys just plug that hole in the intake and re-route the vent else where. Some run it to the end of the truck and let it bleed out to the atmosphere. Some use a catch can. Some plumb it into their exhaust (this has to be done at the PROPER angle, or it will push exhast IN, instead of oil bleeding out. I've read a lot into it, and still am not convinced to do it. Some have done it with great success, but then I talk to some techs who convince me not to do it. (I'm talking good techs, like sponsors on PSN). Read up on it and make your own decision though.

^ Exactly. Thanks Mdub

Mine is a huge mess!! my boots where soaked in oil, and the whole driver side of my engine was messy from the oil. I was looking at that set up and thinking this is not good. maybe if the metal tube comming out of the vent box on the valve cover was sealed so no oil would seep out. ?? the road draft tube idea is not good for the air any more., if it is put into the exhaust then would'nt you have a chance of fouling the cat? I would be more inclinded to do it that way and hope it burns up in the exhaust system? where does one find info on this subject, the pro's and con's of doing the conversion. is the crank case pressure that sensitve to these engines, is there a sensor for that too...lol. it would seem to me a catch can mounted higher than the valve cover with a drain back tube would be good ... but it would still have to vent somewhere?

The cats on our trucks are nothing like that of a gas truck. I'm not sure you could ever actually plug it up. You can see right through the thing. Take that thing off of there anyways!

If I was going to do this, I would do it with the catch can, but for the cost of it, I'll leave it like it is.

You can find info on this by searching. Every forum I've ever been on has a "search" button towards the top.

Try powerstrokenation.com and powerstroke.org you will find tons of info on it.

thanks: this weekend I took the whole mess off of the valve cover and tried to seal the metal pipe comming out of the top for the vapor line into the turbo inlet. where it swivels, I put alittle silicone sealer in there to see if it will stop the oily vapor mess comming out of that joint. we'll see what happens. it all go's back together tonight.?? I just got my FICM back fdrom the CURCUIT BOARD MEDICS, not bad a 4 day turn around, it definitely tested bad at only 27.6 volts. now this thing should run good??

Sealed the crank case vent?

no I siliconed (very carefully) around the swivel joint on the crank case vent box, at the tube from the crank case vent box to the air intake pipe at the front of the turbo. it's a very lose fitting and there really is no way to tightend it up.... so .. if you take your time and clean it up real good ( MEK worked for me ) and be careful you can apply a small bead of silicone around the elbo where it passes into the vent box, mine looked like an o-ring could have gone there? then set the position of the tube/elbow into the intake pipe. I did that yesterday, tonight I installed my ficm and degas tank topped off the coolant and took it for a ride...... damn thing runs perfect...again:jump:.. I think I need a lucky rabbits foot?

Glad to hear you got it worked out :tu: