No crank No start 6.0
 

I bought a 2004 f350 6.0 that needed radiator, ac condenser, and a trans cooler. When I bought the truck both batteries where shot so I bought two new ones and the parts that where missing. After putting the truck back together I turn the key on and everything works but the truck won't even begin to turn over. I have power to the fuel pump, glow plugs, vacuum pump and I used a test light to confirm power to the starter. I have checked all the relays under the dash and they all seem to be good and checked both batteries and they are both good. Hooked my scan tool up and it says to replace the ICP sensor, but I didn't think that would prevent my truck from starting.

An ICP could cause a no-start, but probably not a no-crank.

Is your 04 an early or a late 04 (where is the ICP sensor located)?

No Crank
Find the yellow with light blue striped colored wire adjacent to the passenger side battery in the engine compartment, near the vacuum pump that has a "squeeze-and-pull" type connection. Disconnect it, and jump the male end of the connector to the passenger side battery positive terminal. The starter should crank. Let us know if it does.

A shorted out fan clutch can cause a no-crank. So can a shorted out EBP. A bad transmission range sensor can also cause a no-crank. Try cranking with the EBP disconnected, then the fan clutch disconnected, then try cranking in neutral (in addition to trying to crank in park).

Also, don't forget to check the inertia switch (it has a reset button).

Problems with OEM (PATS) or aftermarket theft system can cause a no-crank.

Double check fuse F2-22 (20A Engine Controls) under the dash. If it is blown a few common causes are: shorted fan clutch, MAF, IPR, EGR actuator, or GPCM.

I tried the yellow wire and nothing happens, have tried starting in neutral and unplugged the fan and still nothing. Checked #22 fuse and it's good. The ICP sensor is on the passenger side front of valve cover so it's a late build 04.

I'll try with the EBP disconnected and get back with you.

If the yellow wire doesn't start it, then it is your starter. It is a direct supply of current to the starter. Don't bother with the sensors, it is not be engine related.

Okay. I'm going to take the starter off now and pick up a new one. Will let you know if that fixes it. Thanks

Okay so now after replacing the starter it will turn over but it's a slow crank and won't start.

You need 150 rpm to start. Check that.

Also, charge and load test the batteries.

My scan tool reads 194 rpm, it's starting to crank faster than before but still no start. However my scan tool also says I'm only getting a little under 11 volts while trying to start. Guess I'll take the batteries off and have them charged and tested tomorrow.

Batteries are good, tested them today. Checked the inertia switch, FICM is good, starter is good. Scan tool still says low voltage and to replace the ICP sensor.

Did you use a load tester and test them individually?

How about your battery ground connections ... all of then good and tight, and no corrosion?

Yes I tested both individually and even took the cables off and cleaned all the terminals with a terminal cleaner. I forgot to mention this and i can't believe I didn't put it in the original post but my truck has the EGR delete but no tuner, could that have anything to do with it? Also after trying to start the truck today I decided to check the oil filter and fuel filter again but I have no oil when I take the filter out (if that makes sense) but there is oil on the dipstick. Need a new HPOP?

Just as an fyi - these trucks do many odd things with even slightly flaky batteries. Always good to check. 194 rpm is good on the cranking (you can get more w/ a 6.4L or 6.7L starter).

Now - back to the ICP issue - Are you using an aftermarket oil filter or oil filter cap? The aftermarket caps are tall compared to say the 1 inch height of the OEM oil cap.

These aftermarket combinations have been known to NOT close the drain valve in the bottom of the oil filter bowl.

If the ICP sensor itself is an issue, then you can always disconnect it and try starting. The PCM will use default values.

I doubt that the EGR delete has anything to do with it.

Nope it's an OEM oil cap. I did find an old ICP sensor in my back seat this morning though so it has been changed before, I also took the plastic wrapping off the wiring harness that goes to the ICP sensor and checked to make sure it wasn't shorting out any where and it all looks good. Unplugging the ICP sensor doesn't change anything when trying to start either, I also unplugged the EBP sensor and it looked fine.

Just to make 100% sure (your answer didn't include the filter) ... OEM filter too?

Also, when you remove the oil filter cap, does it look like the oil has saturated ALL of the filter media (all the way to the top)?

Time to get actual engine data now that you can crank:

Get data w/ KOEO and when cranking:
ICP volts
ICP pressure
IPR % duty cycle
Cam/crank sync
FICM sync
FICM LPower
FICM VPower
FICM MPower
Fuel Pulse Width

Yeah it is an OEM filter but when I pulled it out earlier it's dry except for the very bottom... I'll get that data and post it up as soon as I get back to my truck

I think you might need to replace the drain valve.

To test it, you can push down on the valve (w/ a screwdriver) and crank to see if it holds oil. I would crank with the starter wire on the passenger fender wall, that way you won't try to add fuel when cranking. The bowl should fill in 2-3 seconds and not drain w/ the valve depressed.

Sorry for the delay but I'm not getting oil to the filter. It's not pumping oil into the filter at all. Also I'm not showing any ICP pressure during cranking?

So w/ the oil filter cap off, when you crank you see no oil flowing into the oil filter canister? None at all? You can also watch the fill rate by closing the drain valve (pushing down on it w/ a screwdriver. A healthy system will fill the oil filter canister in 3-4 seconds w/ the drain valve closed and 10-12 w/ the drain valve left open.

If your not getting oil to the filter, then the HPOP isn't getting any oil fed to it (so no ICP).

If no oil is flowing to the filter, then you more than likely have an issue with the LPOP, but before you tear into it, I would remove the LPOP regulator and inspect.

I removed the regulator and inspected it, looks good, no gouges or anything. Also stuck a small magnet where the regulator goes and no metal shavings or anything. The spring was not under pressure when I removed it, I think that's good right? I know the ICP sensor has been replaced before because when I bought the truck there was an old ICP sensor under the rear seat. Guess I will need to replace it again since I have no ICP pressure though, correct?

Again - if you truly aren't getting oil through the filter, then you are way too premature spending money on the ICP sensor. It might be bad, but no oil through the filter means no oil to the HPOP. No oil to the HPOP means no ICP pressure (ie even a good sensor will read 0 in that case).

From what you are saying, it is time to pull and inspect the LPOP.

Ok so I pulled the LPOP and it looks fine. No gouges or scratches. So what's next?

Doesn't take much of a nick or scratch to cause problems. If the LPOP is OK, then maybe the pickup tube in the oil pan?

I guess before that (have to loosen motor mounts to drop the oil pan), I would put the LPOP back together and make 100% sure that along with no flow, there is no pressure either. There is an oil pressure test port on the filter base.

In post # 19 I asked for clarification/assurance and didn't see an answer .........

As an afterthought - I have had a few Techs tell me that they have seen the oil cooler plug on the oil side, but it is rare (usually it is on the coolant side). Even so, the oil cooler is supposed to have a bypass valve for that possibility.

There where only a few scuffs but not even enough to catch a finger nail on. Also there was absolutely no oil flow into the canister before and showing no oil pressure on my snap on scanner. Will check the pick up tube tommorow and let you know what I find out.

Sorry for the delayed response, working on pipeline I get very few days at home to work on the truck. I drained the oil and used a bore camera to inspect the pickup tube, nothing wrong there. Oil had no debree in it either. Any other suggestions?

Id say it the pick up tube then. I just changed the lpop the other day in my truck for no reason so i have a spare if you need one. Pick up tube sounds like fun tho, glad its not me having to do it.

Oops sorry i missed your last post.

I dont know if it was covered yet or not but whats the oil level in the motor? I know it seems obvious but youd be suprised how many complicated problems are solved with the easiest solutions

Oil level was good, drained the oil and found no debree either. I'm lost at this point

To complete this thread, I saw over on FTE that you replaced the LPOP gears (even though you inspected them). Couldn't tell if it was also a front cover problem as well. Looks like that got you going. Always nice to finish the thread with an outcome .....

I did indeed forget to post an outcome. The old LPOP gears where fine however the cover was damaged so I decided to replace the LPOP while I was at it. Now I have started a new thread due to an oil leak. Truck was running great until I blew an intercooler hose due to a loose clamp and then started leaking oil somewhere under the turbo.