Archoil
 

I have been here a few times. Luckily not in a while. Never had a problem till 75,000. Then ficm, (1) injector. 95,000 had to clean turbo due to lag. 110,000 egr and oil cooler.

have Here we are at 119,000 (8) injector codes. I have had these before and they cleared for thousand of miles. Ficm is good and all the usual suspects. Tried hot shot nothing. Tried rev ex nothing. By the way is used revex during a oil change and less then 500 miles is when my oil cooler and egr had to be replaced. Coincidence ?

So recently came across archoil and as with all the others its sounds awesome. My truck is running great, hit the pedal and it jumps. But I can't get rid of these codes. So Im thinking of trying archoil. Is this stuff any good?

With all 8 injector codes , I'd be leaning towards a bad FICM.

maybe, but i don't I don't really think so. With the 6.0 anything is possible.

The trick had been sitting for a while as I taken some time off. The other day after a couple of week of rain and kinda cool for south florida. I went to start it, It was misfiring lie as in stiction in cold weather. After a couple of seconds it evened out. So I do think it is related to stiction and the injectors.

Just wondering if this archoil is any good

Don't know about the archoil.
When you test the FICM it is for the power side. if you have all 8 injector codes I'd guess the logic side of your FICM is bad. What are the codes? Injector circuit low?
Also I think that stiction would not kick codes.

i get the injector circuit low codes. I had this happen before. Yes got a new ficm. Still had a rough running engine, then the shop replaced number one injector and it ran like brand new.

Maybe 20,000 mile later low on fuel it would kick out all the same codes. I would clear them and then go 5-10000 they would come back again low on fuel. This would go on to about 115000 Lately they would not clear.

Truck was running great. Then l it sit for about a month. Went to start it in morning about 70 in florida. It ran rough and kicked black smoke for a 5 sec and then ran like normal. Even affect eight hours of work . It would start rite up and idle great. only ion the morning it would idle rough for about 10 seconds.

one morning i even cycled the glow plugs for about 5 times and it only ran rough for about a second if anything. Now i am in south carolina at my cousins and it has been warm. Same thing every morning.

But not today the cold has come back and it was cold this morning. I went to start it, cycled the glow plugs a few time and I can't even get it to start. I am thinking i might be the glowplug control module since it has all cylinder codes.

I also just plugged in the heater block to see if I can get it started.

The Archoil product was designed for the PSD. Specifically hard starting from stiction. I'm very happy with the product. It has helped my truck with cold start issues since I put it in. It was between 28-34 degrees and the truck started with no problems. Not even plugged in. I never plug the truck in anymore. I had also switched my truck over to full synthetic Rotella T6 5w-40 at the time I put the Archoil too.

I switched to mobil 1 esp 5w40 which is a full synthetic. After having the block plunged in for about 45mins I went out to start there truck. It cranked a lot faster but was rough for about 45 seconds, It even stalled a few times. But once warm Idled like a champ.

Also after leaving it all day but plunged in. I came home and it started right up without any rough idle. I am thinking it is the glow plug control module.

That's natural that the longer it's plugged in the better your cold starting ability is. It's possible that it could be the module, but since using the Archoil I haven't needed to investigate any farther into it.

usually when you get all eight injector codes, it is a bad ficm. If it was a sticktion issue the revx would have fixed it.
Leaning to the glow plug circuit makes sense because of the cold starts but wouldn't kick all eight injector codes.
The ficm circuit board is weak/ junk solder from the factory. the solder cracks when cold then expands when warm, making it run poor when cold and better when warm.
My buddy's truck had the same issue one year ago, no codes, great ficm voltage, I spent a lot of time trying to figure it out. Bad cold starts and ran decent when warm, but wouldn't drive until warm, 20 25 minutes, tried revx , no results. I was able to get the truck to start decent by cycling the injectors 7 times until they stopped buzzing, 7 was the magic number for this truck, 6 would start bad. I stumbled upon this thinking it was sticktion, figuring every time the key is cycled the injectors buzz and create inductive heat, it also apparently warms up the ficm, making the cracked solder connect .
A year later while scanning truck, came up with all eight codes , his mechanic was leaning towards fuel delivery or all eight injectors. Never will all eight injectors go out at once.
I called Ed from ficmrepair.com and told which codes I had, without hesitation it was a bad ficm, this ficm showed great voltage.
I ordered the top of the line Bullitt proof ficm with an atlas 40 tune two new battery's and an 185 amp alternator from DC power. all cold start issues are gone, truck runs awesome owner is happy.
By the way his check engine light(all 8 injectors) showed up right after the owner suffered a bad alternator.
Bad battery's and a bad or weak alternator FRY ficm's.
You are lucky to get two full years of battery with a 6.0, they are brutal on battery's.
My 2006 f550 has 42000 miles and when checking ficm would drop to 43 volts for a split second, ficm was bad, one coil was on its way out. did the top of the line ficm from ficmrepair.com, standard tune which give stock horsepower back, two Napa battery's and an 185 alt from DC power, truck runs awesome. Point is even with low miles ficm was on way out.
I work on my own stuff mostly 7.3's, my 6.0 is my first, and it is incredible to me how much time/effort goes into keeping these trucks running.
Another buddy has a 2003, ficm showing 42 volts for a few seconds while injectors are buzzing. His ficm is bad. His batterys are swollen(bad) he put an alternator in a month ago.
Truck runs like a tractor intermittently hot or cold. He wont accept the fact that his two year old batterys are bad, even though swollen and jizzing acid. He still runs truck and is hammering his new injectors, just because he is an idiot.
His motor was replaced by ford two years ago to the tune of $16000.
Unfortunately all of the sub sytems on the truck have 150000 miles on them. Im not saying all the sub sytems should have been replaced when he got the new motor , but the stuff that routinely fails on these trucks need to be bulletproofed, and maintained or it is a vicious cycle of my truck sucks, its a pos, etc.

Bottom line is with all eight codes your ficm is on the way out, maybe you have multiple problems and a new ficm wont fix it, but you have to start with the obvious, all 8 injector codes low circuit say your ficm is toast.
I hope my ramblings help you in some way.

I have read lots of recommendations on here for Rev-X, but what are your opinions on MotorKote American Engine Lubricants & Fuel Additives? I have been using it for years in just about everything. My wife's VW TDI had about 200k on it when she hit something that cracked the oilpan. After sitting all night, it leaked all the oil out on our gravel driveway so she didn't see it. She made it about 2 miles before it shut down. after changing the oil pan, it still started, but made lots of noise.

I mostly work on the 7.3's, the rev x is used in the 6.0 crowd. The one time I tried it did not help, but I don't think it was a sticktion issue. For sticktion issues that rev x don't fix I remember reading a thread of some one opening the spool valve on the injector and "polishing" read Scrubbing the spool with emery cloth to get the shine off of the valve and it seemed to work.

ok wanna drag , i agree with most of what your saying. I replaced the ficm in oct 2011. At that time I had the original batteries from oct 04. A few weeks prior replacing the ficm, I noticed after using the hazards while I was working on a road it had a little trouble starting. So yes bad batteries I agreed fried my first ficm.

I got a new ficm and new costco batteries, truck started but still ran a little rough. So i took it to a shop and they swore it was my ficm, they did not trust the rebuilt i put in. They got a brand new one from ford and put it in. It still did ran rough, I was not there to see, but I would ultimately have to replace fuel injector #!. Truck cracked right over and ran awesome.

Just about a little over two years I noticed it took just a little longer to crank over then usual. I said batteries might be going and I was not going through this again. SO i replaced them at costco under the warranty. I just missed the two year free replacement but only had to pay maybe 80 bucks for the two. Defiantly started quicker like normal.

Anyway I would occasionally get the all 8 injector codes as I said before throughout the now 50,000 miles since replacing the original ficm. Even with the codes my truck runs awesome and gets great mileage. They would go away for 5 mile at a time. I cant see it being the ficm causing the cold start though. Its 70 sometimes 80 here in florida. It will start run rough for about 5 seconds then great. But as I said in south carolina 32 in the morning would not even fire. Plug it in all night and crack right over without any roughness. I also noticed when turning the key the glow plug light would stay on for maybe a second after it was plugged in all night.

So i believe it is either the glow plug control module or the glow plugs causing my rough cold start. I am not saying fixing this will get rid of my injector codes. But it will help my cold start problem. At least that is what i think.

I would also like to thank everyone for there advice. Thank You

In the end it was the ficm. Its always the ficm. Damm the ficm.

Good batteries and a great alternator are a must on the 6.0 to keep the FICM alive. A bad alt or bad battery will kill an FICM in minutes. Every 2 years you should replace Batteries whether they seem good or not. I run an 185 amp alt from DC Power, It puts more amperage at idle than a stock alt at 2000 rpm.
Glad you got your truck fixed.
Also Ed at FICMREPAIR.com rebuilds an really nice ficm with a lifetime warranty, but you must maintain good batteries and a good alternator, and he'll put a tune on it as well, nothing but great news for the ficms I have purchased from Ed.

Ed is great at ficm repair! I also got a DC Power Engineering alternator and new Bosch AGM sealed batteries from Pep Boys. . .and I got the power shell from bulletproof diesel, and 5-40 synthetic oil. . With good fuel and a little anti gel truck starts right up down to -2 last year in jersey. I can't always plug in right now, development house frowns on the cord across the lot. . .lol

6.0 Powerstroke chug
 

I have an 06 6.0L just hit 130k has sinister ficm, egr delete, and coolant filter innovative custom tunes leveled on 35's. (new to site)


I was headed to Menominee Wisconsin yesterday and I went on my hot tune (150) so I could perhaps get better mileage than what I would get on my usual everyday driver/tow tune (55) and I was cursing at 70 mph and laid into the throttle to pass a car staying in 5th gear and I was slowed by a abrupt chug or kind of a misfire if it was a gas engine. I tried to do it again and it did it 3 time on the way there. so before I left I tuned it back to the 55 horse tune and experimented on the way home and it didn't do or act up once. don't really know what to think was planning on purchasing the sinister blue spring kit as well as changing my oil and running some archoil through it. seeming like a fuel issue but also could it be a dirty turbo? thank you for any input.

Sorry not sure. But from what i hear, running any kind of tune is not good for the 6.0. Especially if you have the stock head bolts.

One thing i just learned recently and wished I had sooner. Get rid of the gold anti freeze and do not use any antifreeze with silicate in it.