06 6.0L wont start after repairs installed
 

Ive hit a standstill with this truck at our shop. Someone ordered some parts for it so I replaced the oil cooler, ipr, and icp, and now it wont start. It came into the shop running pretty rough. We have hooked up the Snap On Verdict to it and ran multiple test and monitored some systems and everything seems to be fine until we do a contribution test and all 8 injectors read 0. The Hpop reads 1000, and I can get more numbers about it when I get back into work tonight. We also have a IDS and pretty much everything else

P.S. were in the desert so vehicles come in with some crazy things happening from sand or heat :argh:

1000 Is plenty to start the truck. you did not pull the oil manifolds to replace injectors did you? they take alot of turning over to get enough oil back up to the manifolds for starting.

Do an injector buzz test to see if there is any faults there.

I am not familiar with what a verdict will do as far as function tests. we just use the verus pro in our shop.

one common mistake when doing a oil cooler rebuild is not refilling the reservoir before installing the cooler, it will generally kill the batteries before it will fire. Also the ICP is that actual or desired? actual needs to be 500psi for it to start , also check to make sure FICM harness is "clicked" in

I agree, i forgot to mention a couple things! actual and desired are two completely different things :tu:

I did a oil cooler rebuild and just finished getting the intake manifold back on. Of course I didn't refill the reservoir. Is there any way to fill the reservoir without taking the manifold back off and undoing the cooler?

I didn't re-fill my oil cooler and I was able to re-start mine without too much trouble.

The key is to crank it for a short time, then stop and let everything rest, then do it again.

I cranked my for 15 seconds, then waited for about 5 minutes, then cranked it for 15 seconds again.
I then disconnected the batteries and re-charged them both.
Then I cranked again for 15 seconds...it fired up, ran a bit rough for 10 minutes and then smoothed out. It was not completely smooth until I ran it on the freeway for 30 minutes with about 10 hard accelerations.

I would recommend keeping it below 1500 RPM's for the first 10 minutes...this will push some of the air out of the high pressure system. This is just my opinion...I think it's best if you don't rev it until the system gets primed.

we have now discovered fuel in the oil, so we are thinking possibly the injectors o rings?

fuel in oil. Injector rings are a very good possibility

Just fill through the oil filter housing?

If it builds oil pressure to 500 the system is primed. I would usually look for .25v icp koeo, make sure you have ficm sync, 48v and your ipr % is under 85. Should run with good fuel in it. The ids is useless for determining fuel pressure. You can use a simple Guage. And a word of advice, never do injector work with out selling the blue spring update or hiding it in the cost. The customer will think your a miracle man. What a difference it makes and allows you to check the fuel system.

I always also bill to reseal each injector and check the cups for cracks and the correct torque. Valve cover is off anyways its less than 1 hour per side to do them all once your in there and the seal kits are 8 bucks each. Ids has a great power balance. You should know if it has a bad injector or not. Check it cold and bump the rpm down to 500. I use ae and it is way more work. I also always charge to inspect and reseal the egr valve if equipped. If you opened the oil cooler and got any contamination in there the ipr screen could have taken a hit as well. I would check that but if it has 500 psi or more it should be fine. Did you do the screen while the turbo was off? It's another cheep insurance.