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dman001232 03-01-2014 10:24 PM

need help asap
 
2004.5 6.0 running really bad. Using alot of fuel 1/4 tank for 50 miles, no power takes miles to reach 70 on a flat road if I go up hill I slow, I hit an overpass at 70 I slow to 40 or less regardless of throttle, idles horrible, shakes while driving, belching s##t ton of dark black smoke. Had a egr cooler delete put in back in September was the egr valve supposed to have been removed also? Please help asap only vehicle I have to get to work and my wife is pregnant and has to travel 40 miles to the doctor once a week.oil pressure gauge shows good batteries are good.hard warm starts cold starts not too bad but still not right.any and all help would be much appreciated.thanks:argh::argh::scare2:

saranay 03-02-2014 05:30 AM

So it burns up fuel?
How are oil and coolant level?
If they are good then check your coolant. Any residual of oil or fuel in coolant tank?
If you have oil in coolant tank, is blown headgasket
If you have fuel mixed in coolant, then is injector seals.

My conclude is injector seal is leaking or bad injector
Check your fuel system if there is any bubble coming. To do this you have to remove your fuel filter next to oil filter housing, crank up and observe for bubbles.

If that is the case. I recommend you to replace all the seal on every injector and copper seals. which is around $50 or less per packet. Make sure you buy one that comes with copper seals too.

I will PM you my cell. you can text me if you need any further assistance.

dman001232 03-02-2014 10:38 AM

Fluids are fine no mixing of other ones present.I'll try the bubble test in a bit its cold and very windy right now

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

How can I determine which injector is bad without a scanner?

saranay 03-02-2014 08:46 PM


Originally Posted by dman001232 (Post 1051717)
Fluids are fine no mixing of other ones present.I'll try the bubble test in a bit its cold and very windy right now

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

How can I determine which injector is bad without a scanner?

You need a scanner to check which injector is defected.
But if it just a seal, I recommend you have to replace them all.

I was reading on another duplicated post of yours. Rebuild kit for turbo cost around less than $100 for a new rubber and oil seals.
To remove and disassemble the turbo is very tricky. It took me less than 2 hours to remove, clean, and install it back. Soked in simple green solution for less than 15mins to dissolve and scrub them up, lubricate and assemble back with new seals. Unless you want like a shiny thing then will require more tools and time.

*Important thing is when you are try to remove a compressor from turbo shaft, you must turn a clockwise.



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From another post of yours. No cranking or No start no crank at all?

dman001232 03-02-2014 10:20 PM

It will crank and start every time but is harder to start when warm.very poor idle no matter what temp no power either regardless of temp.i sometimes have to soak a rag with gas to to get it to run.so far never had a no start (knock on wood)

saranay 03-02-2014 10:35 PM


Originally Posted by dman001232 (Post 1051817)
It will crank and start every time but is harder to start when warm.very poor idle no matter what temp no power either regardless of temp.i sometimes have to soak a rag with gas to to get it to run.so far never had a no start (knock on wood)

Could be a few things. But never soak gas into intake to start. You will just going increase more problem further down...

First thing I would check is oil pressure leak test by air compressor and how much FICM voltage is getting from OBDII

You can check for both pressure and voltag from OBDII


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