Yet another Cold Start issue
 

Hi I have a 2004 F350 6.0 with 80,000 miles. It takes about 8 seconds of cranking before she fires up @ 30*F. When is does start there is just a very very small amount of black smoke and it kinda runs a little rough (like it's not firing on all cylinders) for 5-10 seconds and then runs great! There is no issues once it's running.

This truck is stock and has 15w40 oil (I know that lighter weight oil would be better but I just bought my truck and the dealer just did an oil change the day I bought it). I have added Rev-x…..this marginally helped it out (knocked a second or so off the cranking time). Also, I did the FICM test: key on 35v for just a couple of seconds as the glow plugs engaged, start (can't recall but seemed normal), and running at 45.9v (constant).

So NO white smoke…minimal black smoke (barely noticeable) during start and runs great after. Note it starts much much better after being plugged in all night and the cranking times are about 2-3 seconds when it's been turned off and on during usual running around town.

I know there are lots of cold cranking stuff on this forum and many others but I have yet to find the exact issue. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!! I'm thinking Glow plug issue????

How old are the batteries? Ficm volts seem low and batteries are critical to keep maintained. I would make sure batteries are up to par for their ratings. Also when cold its going to take a little longer, mine has over 200,000 and always longer in cold. Mine smokes when cold too but not in summer. It's just everything getting going usually

Thank you very much for the info. I just purchased a battery tester and will check the batteries. Also, I can purchase the half of the FICM board that gets soldered for $180. I know it won't have the "Atlas 40" programmed into it like Ed would do but I would be getting a new board not just a repaired one. Any thoughts?

I have been told a quality repair uses better components to upgrade failure prone components. I have been thinking about a 58 v ficm from swamps with a tune just for the cold starts and more power. . .like a lot of folks here I keep looking for a little more . . I love the better throttle response with eds power hungry tune. . Keep wondering how higher volts and 80 hp tune would work. . Will definitely keep my ficm for a backup if I do try other one. $180 is cheap and will help you rule out ficm as issue. . I would try that if you didn't want bigger one or if money is tight only because mine never drops below 48 volts ever.

Alright I ordered the Half Shell off Amazon ($117). I know Ed has some amazing reviews and would like to go with him but the budget was the deciding factor. If I knew for sure it is just the FICM then I would have probably have gone with Ed but being the fact it could be more…..glow plugs etc. I figured I should save some money for some other repairs if needed. I will certainly keep you posted when it arrives and I get it put together!

Just curious - is this one you ordered?

Dorman 904-229 Fuel Injection Control Module

If it's just a power issue you can do half shell. Ed tests the rest of the ficm and u can eliminate the entire ficm for a few dollars more. Ed replaces the components on the board that are known to fail and resolders the board, hence better than original.. . Just my $.02

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The half she'll is just a power supply, was wondering how so cheap

Yes BKMAC that's the one

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Alright, I finally had some free time to install the FICM half shell. The part appeared to be pretty solid……"didn't have that cheap feel" (this is from my untrained eye). The truck starts a lot better. At -10C (without being plugged in) I let the glow plugs cycle for one minute then started cranking. It took 6 seconds before she fired up. I'm not sure if this 6 seconds of cranking sounds normal??? Still seems like a lot of cranking time before it starts. Before it would have started but the cranking time has been reduced and it felt like it had a mis for about 10 seconds before which is gone. I also noticed the throttle response has improved as well. I was tight for time when I changed the part so unfortunately I didn't have time to check the volts afterward. All in all for the money I am very happy! Do these cranking times seem normal now? What are you guys/gals getting for Cranking times?

My 06 starts in 1 1/2 seconds.
Before I fixed a High Pressure Oil Leak it was taking 5 seconds. Right after I fixed the leak it was taking 2 1/2 seconds.
Now that I just put in new batteries it takes 1 1/2 seconds to light up every time.

Hmm what kind of High Pressure Oil leak? Is there any other symptoms? Was it hard to fix? Also what kind of oil are you running Bustedknuckles?

Also check the alt charging voltage and battery voltage which all contribute to FICM failures (besides heat and vibration). Plus do you still have the EGR? How does it look is it coked up or stuck. I had one and it did contribute to cold start issues but I also had bad injectors and turbo which I found out later.

On a side note congrats on your new purchase and when you get a chance check your fluids and filters. More than one Ford dealership installed non OEM filters (ask me how I know)which are essential on this engine. Consider some sort of monitor for long term use to keep an eye on engine parameters to keep you from having big failures later.

High pressure oil leak?
In 2010, I parked the truck to pick up dinner, came out and no start.
I upgraded the branch tube to the new style (solid pile with no Snap To Connect fitting). At the same time I replaced the stand pipes and dummy plugs. So, sorry to say, I don't know for sure where the leak was...just know it was one of these. I paid about $55 for the branch tube and $105 for the stand-pipes and dummy plugs. These are common failure points for the 6.0, and I did not want to have to break into it again for at least another 100,000 miles, so I did them all, along with a new oil cooler and BPD EGR cooler, as well as a few other things.
The truck is running great after putting 50,000 on it since I did the work.

Rowekmr/bustedknuckles thanks for the advice. I did check the charging system and batteries and everything tested normal. I do have a EGR still but hopefully not for long. I have a buddy who had to return his work truck and will be pulling his EGR Delete kit out and putting it in my truck. I don't know what kind of filters are on my truck as I just bought it used from a local Honda dealer. They had done a oil change just prior to me purchasing the truck. What effects would a non OEM filter have?

I also had a friend do a diagnostic on my truck using his computer he was able to check the glow plugs and noticed some were not working. I had him install all new glow plugs and this might have only marginally helped things…..marginally. Also, while hooking up the computer he noticed 3 out of the 8 injectors are operating at about 70% of what the others are at and 1 is at about 80%. Although he didn't notice any codes…..I'm hoping some injector cleaner can help out……fingers crossed! The truck runs great…lots of power and starts hot….but just seems to crank more before running. Maybe it does have a high pressure oil leak. Thanks again for the advice/input.:argh:

Your oil filter is critical in this issue. Some aftermarket filters are not quite proper height and allow your oil to drain back to sump when you stop at night. The truck won't start till filter housing fills up and then can pressurize system! Make sure you have a motorcraft filter and cap for filter, you may solve your problem really cheap!

That is correct,ONLY USE MOTORCRAFT OR FRAM OIL FILTERS, they are the exact same filter and the only ones that should be used, a lot of others, especially the ones with own cap hap been found to be too short

Thanks guys…..had a look at the oil filter today and it's a frame.:humm:

Make that a "Fram"

Well after a half shell FICM, 8 new glow plugs and an empty slush fund I finally have the problem solved! I was driving on the highway and went to step on the pedal and the engine just quit (no sputtering) and wouldn't start…..oh I was pissed off! After a 35km tow to a reliable shop I found out that my IPR appeared damaged and was changed….truck still didn't start :argh: . They found out that the HPOP had gone…..total bill was $3200. Then next morning I went to start the truck at minus 6 Celsius and she fired right up!!!!! A second or less of cranking!!!

The kicker is I just bought this truck in mid October and could have got a full 2 year warranty on the truck for $2000.00 for two years. Oh well you live and learn….I just hope the injectors hold up! A big thank you for everyone who took the time to read and respond to this thread. It's always nice learning from everyone else's issues and fixes. This problem has been a thorn in my backside for months…..now it's just a sore spot on my finances. Thanks!

Here Bill at Powerstrokehelp shows that Ford is the only one that has a patented membrane against water. Some say Racor are the same filter and of course International.


Here is a short Ford video (advertisement?)


http://www.strictlydiesel.com/Produc...erDocument.pdf

Oil Change info
http://www.powerstrokediesel.com/doc...ange_Guide.pdf

Was a new oil filter included in the work....and if it was, what brand of filter did they install?
Sorry to be suspicious...
I have an 06. It was built in 05, so, probably not too different than your build date.
From what I've read on the forums, 05-07 HPOP's hardly ever fail. The earlier models had a different HPOP and tend to fail more often.
I suspected my HPOP when I had long crank times (up to 5 seconds), but didn't change it because of information on the forums. This was over 40,000 miles ago. I was using NAPA gold oil filters and switched to Motorcraft about 50,000 miles ago. My long crank times were due to standpipes, dummy plugs or branch tube, because the problem went away when I replaced these.
I would also make sure the batteries are tested with a good load tester...these testers are pretty pricey, so not many home mechanics spend the money to get one. The way to test a battery is to place a large load on it for 15 seconds. It takes this long to reveal a weak battery. The voltage and cranking amps will fall off before 15 seconds.
I just replaced my batteries after having them tested at AutoZone. Any good parts house will have a good battery tester. They need it to prove to themselves whether a battery is really bad or just needs charging.

Thanks for the info Bustedknuckles. No the shop didn't replace the oil filter but I will make sure the next filter that goes on the truck is ford one!

Didn't you say you had a FRAM filter on it? Maybe it's just me but I can't see a shop servicing the high pressure oil system without changing the filter especially if it is non OEM specified.

Rowekmr I called the shop yesterday they double checked that the oil/filter had not been changed. However the mechanic did recommend it ;) It is a friends shop and they were trying to keep the costs as low as possible.

Ok my bad then :hellox:

These engines are finicky and Ford/Int'l/Racor have patented features that others don't have.

What is a HPOP and a IPR?

Hpop is high pressure oil pump to make injectors fire. IPR Injection Pressure Regulator