Bullett Proofing, Lift Pumps and various other questions!
 

Hey Guys I am always on here asking questions but I feel that is the only way to learn more about these 6.0l's. Coming up here in the middle December I will have my semester break from college and will be heading back home for a month so while I had time to work on my truck I wanted to start doing some bullet proofing. My first problem has been that I changed 8 injectors myself last fall and it has done great for a little over 20,000 miles but as off the last 5,000 I have been having injector hold downs coming loose and then ruining injector o rings. My thinking is the injector bowl didn't get cleaned good enough and they aren't getting a good seal? What can I clean the bowl with and what do I torque the hold down bolts to (it is a 2003)? Next I want to delete the EGR which from what I understand is pretty straight forward. Then if possible head studs? How hard is this to do with the cab still on? Lastly I want to get a lift pump, which should I go with for stock injectors now but eventually want to get a set of bigger ones? And with the lift pump what all do I need, regulated returns, sumps, etc.? Like normal I asked a million questions, I don't want to leave any stone unturned, Please give all of the input possible!!! Thanks! :tu:

I talked with a friend of mine who builds race engines for roundly racers and drag cars, with some NASCAR experience and published in engine builders magazine. His opinion is that you can do head studs one at a time if you are positive you don't have issues now. He suggested following factory sequence, removing bolt, install stud and re torque to original factory bolt spec. Then after all studs are in go 30 lbs. increments in proper sequence to stud recommended torque. Can be done with cab on but you have to cut head off bolt to remove by heater/ ac box. Egr delete can be done while you are in there. If you want a sweet setup for frame mounted pump, look at fuel lab newest setup. They now offer a trick looking piece with filters complete, just saw it at XDP truck show. Wish it was out before i got my airdog but I'm happy with ad. Just Gf asked what's hum? I said when u don't hear it we got problems with fuel pressure! . .if u in that far may as well replace oil cooler with updated one too.

That sounds like it would work, just pull one bolt, replace with stud, etc.? Ya I was also thinking while I was in there to do the oil cooler, who makes the best in your opinion?
Thanks for the advice!

Most just use newer stock ford upgraded cooler. Lotta opinions both ways on studs, if you think you may have any existing problem, you definitely need to pull heads and replace gaskets. If you just do pump and want a little more flow to injectors, the 6.4 banjo bolts from ford have larger orifices and no check valve to allow more flow until you can justify regulated return for bigger sticks.

Adrenaline

Do you know if your friend has actually done this or he just thinks it can be done?

If the head has to be cut off to remove it what about the replacement going back in?

He has done it, but he is cautiously recommending it as if you already have any issue it will most likely magnify the issue. The studs going back in don't have a head on them, you install the nut after the stud is installed. Without a head and a little coaxing, it can be done.sometimes jacking trans by crossmember is necessary or jacking up cab 4 or 5 inches is done.Head studs before an issue is a preventative measure and the way I'm suggesting helps those who don't have a shop capable of pulling the cab or the engine. It's not easy no matter how you do it so I may just run mine till I pop a gasket. I'm going to see innovative after new year and see what they suggest for a tune till I get studs.

I wouldn't mess with studs without doing gaskets and machining heads, you might force yourself to have to if you do. If you want to be preventative start with a coolant filter. :c:

head studs
 

you dont need to lift the ca or cut head bolts to do studs. all you have to do is unbolt the motor mount on the side your working on. slide a 2x4 up next to the oil pan and carefully jack it up untill the other side valve cover touches the fire wall. you should have enough room to remove the head and instal with studs.

you do need to install the head with studs in it and not the block but only the back three on passenger side and the back one on driver side. i used a 3" piece of heater hose slit down the side to hold the bolts and studs up so as to not mess up the new gaskets.