to sleize or anti sleize
 

I hear Ford says not in their truck, but what are Internationals anti-sleize thoughts and ultimately Garretts?

I have a '05 6.0 KR crew cab off road 4x4 w/some upgrades going on, hpop stc fitting, standpipe and plug, turbo feed and drain lines, after further cleaning unison ring and bushings , oil cooler, anti government mods to my egr cooler, blue spring and banjos

WTH is sleize??

a poor attempt at humor.....anti-seize

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A little bit of missing info would be where the anti-seize would be used. I seen some coat everything in the turbine side of the turbo and some say don't. I know Ford's position but haven't found anything from International or Garrett.

The number of posts from those lacking grammar skills required my action to ask.

The missing information I would like to know is 'what is Ford's position on using anti-sieze?'

from what my local diesel mechanic(ex Ford tech) said, Ford doesn't recommend anything but a light coat of motor oil on anything inside turbo but several youtube mechs slather it on the unison ring, vanes, post and actuator. I used it on the mounting bolts(Ford Tech Manual) and all mating surfaces including exhaust down pipe and exhaust manifold and very thin coats on the inside of the marmon clamps and the surfaces they touch. Everything snugged together and sealed up very well with no issues, but in doing that be careful about torqueing them down they suck up quick with about 1/3 the torque. Not sure why but I couldn't get the little arms on the drain tube to sit on the turbo mounting bracket. The portion of the tube inserted into the oil pump housing fit properly and the other end went straight up into the turbo. I hope its okay, isn't the upgraded pipe from a 6.4? I know a few of the upgrade parts are.
P.S by thin coats I mean slather it on and cover all surfaces then wipe almost everything off.

Thanks, bigbrown1,

I installed a powermax but plan on rebuilding the stock unit.

Your tips are helpful.

Got it all back together and had a hellava exhaust leak at the Y pipe. I used the ratchet strap trick and when removed the clamp I still had about a 1/8" gap. With the strap under tension I placed my cheater bar on the Y pipe and gave it a very light tap. It popped in and sealed up. I still had no boost and got a P2262 code, forgot to hook the MAP vacuum hose back up. I learned that the marmon clamp won't close the gap by itself and that the thick rubber donut gasket that goes under the front of intake absolutely has to be in place before pouring in the coolant. It's a good thing I had everything back on except the alternator. It seemed a little overwhelming before I started but with the internet and an expired Ford service DVD it all turned out well and I saved enough to buy a set of tires and few tanks of fuel.