How badly damaged do you think my engine is?
 

Hey guys:

Just wondering what your opinions are about the state of my engine. I'll post some pictures of the crank and cam sensors and the oil pan drain plug.

2006 F-350 6.0L, crew cab, 4WD, dually. Amarillo Package. 98,421 Miles.

Situation:
*7,500 miles past my oil change.
*Bad EGR Cooler.
*I drained the oil and put a screen on top of the drain pan to catch any metal...there wasn't a lot.
*Truck died while cruise was set to 65 MPH.
*Would crank, but not start...no RPM's as the crank sensor was bad. Replaced, and now have RPM's
*Cam senor code showed up, so I pulled that out...had metal chips all over the magnetized end. Cleaned it off and reinstalled it. Code came back, so pulled it again. Again, it was coved with metal chips.

I have had problems with this truck since literally the day after I bought it used from a Ford dealer. They replaced injectors 3-8 under warranty. The truck only had 59,421 miles when I bought it 8 1/2 months ago. About 2 weeks after they replaced the injectors, the FICM went and they would not cover that under warranty, as it wasn't an internal engine component. But, they would put a new one in there for $1,000. Then about 2 months ago truck died while on the expressway. Had towed to dealer and they diagnosed a bad IPR, which it wasn't, then said the STC fitting was bad. Replaced fitting and truck ran ok. That little ordeal cost $1,587.35 at the dealership!

Just wondering what the best guess is, as to what has failed internally. I'll tear it apart in a couple of weeks, but would like to know if there is anything in particular that I'll need to pay attention to while I'm doing this project so I don't do this :argh::s::dang:

Did the engine make any abnormal knocks, squels? ticks.. I would say you may have lost a bearing, in a rod or crank, but hard telling. If you take the pan off you will find alot more out alot faster..

Ouch,,, that much metal I would say the oil pump gears are shot, all that metal is probably from a failing lifter, when they g bad they tend to wear the cam down too.

It made a VERY, VERY slight ticking noise, but was so quiet I had no idea what it was...only heard it after moving into passing lane where I was right next to the concrete median.

Do you guys think this block is reusable without me spending a fortune? Or should I try to come up with almost $5,000 for a used engine? Also, my oil was about a gallon low somehow.

Also, the engine sounds like it has no compression. I pulled the oil fill cap and cranked it and could feel the push and pull of the pistons. We tried WD-40 in the intake, but bit still would not fire.

And most importantly, thank you guys for your responses.

You gonna feel a push a pull from the crank case which is a decent thing the big concern will be the blow by from the gases withing the cylinders. Block is reusable as long as you do not have anything within the block missing. WD-40 is not gonna start a diesel but Ether will but if you use it wait several mintues after the wait to start to cool you glow plugs so they do not ignite the ether and explode the glow plugs. But the truck will not start without 1000 psi of high pressure oil, If you where a gallon low it could cause a no start. But with that much metal you have a internal issue and untill you find out where those metal shaving came from it will be a crap shoot with guessing. If you cylinders are scored and worn they will have to be machined and over bored and you will have to rebuild the engine.

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Also what code did you have?? I will not be able to answer anything else untill tomarrow night since I do not have a way to get on here while im at work. But im sure bobfbigman can take care of ya too.

First code was 2617 Crankshaft Position Sensor. Mechanic at the dealership in Madison, WI replaced that. He then tried to start it, to no avail. That's when he tried to start it with the WD. Today I put used the superchips tuner to pull codes and got 2614 Camshaft Position Senor. That's when I pulled that sensor and found all the metal stuck to it.

This all happened as I was towing a 4,000 +lb camper to Washington state, by the way.

I'm making the assumption that I keep getting that code due to the fact that when I put the sensor back in, it is almost immediately covered in metal particals.

bearing material is not magnetic,, a lifter can fail at anytime but it seems more common when in tow mode and it downshifts causing the engine to over rev.

Thanks guys. I'll tear it apart in a few weeks and report back.

I believe the 6.0L have hydraulic lifters if im not mistaken? but with that much metal you will have to clean all oil passages and flush the oil cooler so you do not jam a piece of metal where you dont want it or block and oil passage to a crank journal. But look at the lifters and cam. If all it did was ruin a lifter or lifters then thank god, but I doubt it was somehthing simple. Keep us posted! :c:

these motors have hydraulic roller lifters, what happens is the roller fails and then you have a busted piece of metal against the camshaft causing a wiped cam lobe, you will also have the tiny roller bearings in the oil pan and can easily get into the oil pump.

So, if that's the case, is there a method for flushing the entire oil system without taking the entire engine apart?

Thank you.

best way is to tear the motor apart and clean everything, but Im sure you will be doing that in the near future.

You were hauling 4+k across the country 7,500 Over on an oil change ?

Ok, so I finally started working on this.

Motor's out, nothing obvious on exterior of engine.

Took passenger side valve cover off and what do I see? Oh, 6 or 7 bent pushrods and a few BROKEN rocker arms! Any thoughts on why this would occur?

Operator Error?

Well, found the problems...crankshaft sheared right behind cylinders 1 & 2 broken connecting rod on number 1, and 2 lifter failures. Not sure which occured firtst, and don't really care at this point. I have a band aid engine to put in and will have this block bored and update everything in it that's possible.

Thank you to everyone who had useful information and comments on this post.

Ouch! :ouch: Do you have any pics of the carnage?

No pics. I'll take some tomorrow if the wife let's me go out and work on it. Been battling this b**** since Monday. Talking about the engine there, not my wife. LOL.

Wow, thas some carnage. Generally if you distroy a crank like that its from over rev, or hydrolocked. This is from my experience but.. WOW.

It's a possibility that it did hydrolockk...as I noticed some very clean areas around the outside edge of head-gasket area, where everywhere else was dirty. Possibly indicating head gasket failure? The over-rev I'm not sure about but I had just gotten over to pass someone on the highway. But it only kicked down a gear and didn't do anything out of the ordinary, but die. lol

Ok Guys:

Put a 2003 engine in that was believed to have 77,000 miles.

Replaced oil cooler, egr cooler (both from Autozone), and a bunch of seals and gaskets.

I ran out of time and money to do HG's and studs.

When I did the initial startup, I noticed a thumping coming from the airbox. Not sure what this signifies?

Upon completion of project, drove from Toledo, OH to Allentown, PA in truck and it drove fine, with the exception of an 18-25 degree difference between ECT & EOT. Was there two weeks using the truck only for commuting. I did not baby the truck while I was there.

Now, for the fun part...

Driving back to Toledo engine started running poorly and codes P0281, P0284 Injector Imbalance and P2284 Injector Control Pressure showed up.

Engine started surge, and if I floored it, would seem to level off. Engine bucked a few times, idle up then back down, up then down...Then, at one point under WOT a HUGE cloud of black smoke started billowing out I let off the accelerator and the engine immediately went up to WOT on it's own. Turned the key off, truck stayed running, then finally died.

Pulled off to the side of the highway and looked for anything broken or leaking, but found nothing. Coolant reservoir was empty, so I put a gallon in. Started truck up and it idled like crap. Drove it for a mile or two and the entire time this this is putting out a steady massive cloud of what looked like white smoke...was starting to get dark out, so hard to tell.

I pulled into a gas station and started googling. I pulled out the EGR valve and it was soaked inside with what really seemed like oil, not coolant.

Anyways, a buddy drove his 1/2 ton Silverado with my 20 ton equipment hauler 300+ miles to where I was stranded. Drove the truck onto the trailer and took it home, where it's sat for the past two weeks. Pretty embarrasing for a little 1/2 ton Silverado to haul 16,000 lbs home. That was one VERY exciting drive with all that weight loaded onto that little truck's rear axle. lol

So, any ideas here as to what I'm looking at? Possible that the new Autozone EGR cooler was bad from the start? I only put 872 miles on this engine. Would bad head gaskets cause me to blow all the smoke or the EGR cooler?

Thanks for your input fellow diesel owners.

I'm sure budget and time constraints but I wouldn't buy autozone anything for my truck. I woulda rented something or ? . . Just my .02$ . . . They all thump from the air box, especially with aftermarket intake. Kudos to your friend for stressing his truck! Hope you keep posting, looking forward to the outcome!