How much does this SOB weigh?
 

I am having my 9000 lb. capacity two post lift installed in my shop today... is that going to be enough? It is questionable weather or not I can get full lift to where I can stand under it (12' 3" peak ceiling hight) but using the lift for tire changes, and exhaust work would be nice even if I have to tilt my head to the side :) If the published figures on hight I have seen are correct (6' 8") and ground clearance is measured from the lowest point, then I should be able to stand strait, being 5' 8" tall has it's advantages :D

Thanks for any information,

Keith

I'd be nervous putting one of these trucks up on a 9k lift myself. Especially in a larger truck like a CC/LB or a CC/SB. They're pushing 8k by themselves...

Well, no tools or people in it.... 1000 lbs. less than rated capacity of the lift? Not sure why that would be an issue.

Keith

See if theres a semi truck scale near you and weigh it. I weighed my old truck on a scale that a mill owns near us. It was a chevy avalanche and that weighed around 6900 lbs. Add on a diesel motor and straight axle with a longer bed. Its going to be close.

My buddy has a 10k two post and it's nerve wracking having my truck up in the air but we do it. I'd bet yours is heavier than mine. I'd like to have a drive on 4 post myself. :c:

I personally wouldn't with my rig, CC/LB 4x4 with close to 800 lbs in tires and wheels alone.

I'll take it to the local truck scales, and let everyone know the verdict. Guys installing it said it wouldn't have any trouble, but I'm not risking myself, my truck, or my lift before I know for sure :)

Keith

It's not that they won't lift it or hold it, the thing is you have all of the weight on 2 posts. You start reefing on somthing and it dosn't take much to shake ther truck, plus how well is the weight centered. I wouldnt wanna do a clutch or somthing like that without a dead man under each corner of the frame. :c:

another thing is which arms you got with it, the symetrical or Asymetrical??? with the Asymetrical you can use the longer arms toward the back of truck to center the weight on the posts better.

I have symmetrical.

Any consensus on jack stand ratings? I tried looking it up, and half of people say they are rated individually, and just as many people say they are rated for holding capacity for a pair. You can purchase high lift jack stands, but I need to know what capacity ratings are real. The "they are rated by the pair" camp is how I always assumed it was in the past.... but you can order a single jack stand by itself that is sold as a 6 ton jack stand... does that actually mean that it is 6 ton if you purchase two of them??? I am so confused by this right now!

Keith

When picking truck of our size I prefer to use 10k or larger not due to the weight but the shear size of the truck and the distance the trucks hangs out of each side of the lift. Ive put mine on a 9k lift. And i must say i was very nervous. Specially if you need to do soemthing that may rock the truck

I would assume jack stand rating is per stand, but why not ask the manufacturer to be sure. I'd just buy a drive on if it was me, I see them in auction listings quite often. :c:

Lift was installed today, and I ask about jack stands because of the stability concerns people have brought up. I can get 2 ton jack stands with minimum hight of 49" max hight of 79" for $80.00 each ($110 shipped). If it is 2 ton per jack stand this would be fine (2 ton x 4 jack stands x 2000 lb = 16000 lb capacity) If it is 2 ton per pair I need to hit up the truck scales and see if I am under 8000 lb before I order them.

Keith

<edit> Just found another place with 2 ton high lift jack stands for $80 that is local and now that I have an F-350 to carry them in (instead of my Miata) I can go pick them up and avoid $120 in shipping costs! :D

Either way you can put a stand under each corner and still have most of the weight on the lift :c:

Very True! :jump:

But some jobs are easier if you can move the lift arms out of the way... so I still want to know the answer :humm:

Keith

I concur. When we go to the truck pulls, my buddy's 7.3 4 door short bed comes in about 8,000. The 6.0 weighs more than the 7.3 and this truck has no lift on 33s. I'd put my 7200lb truck on it, but I'd be taking a 4 door to a truck stop scale, like Curry suggested, before I put one on that lift.

Here are the official truck scale results for my F350 XLT crew cab long bed 4X4! With 75 miles on the odo since my last fill up (approximately 40 lbs of fuel less than full) with my fat ass in the drivers seat it weighed 7940 and without me it was 7680. So add 40 lbs for the burned fuel and you get a fully fueled weight of 7980 with me driving and 7720 with no driver.

So, even if the two ton load limit for the tall jack stands is 2 ton per pair I am able to use them as suplimentary load bearing and stabalization on the lift :rocking:

Now I just need to pull $340.00 out of my ass for the jack stands!

Later,

Keith

Looks like you got it figured out. I took a load to the dump the other day, and i weighed in at 8200 lbs leaving with about 14 gallons in the tank, and probably 300 lbs worth of humans in it. My truck is an 06 CCSB FX4. Good luck.

I can't understand half the stuff in your signature... any of that stuff add weight?

Keith

Somthing as simple as a different brand or size tires and wheels would make a weight difference, plus the add on's guages, coolant filter etc will add a little. :c:

The little things will add up here and there. Its mainly if you have aluminum wheels or steels and tire sizes vs rim size. Lift kit really wouldn't add to much weight either. Now a tool box loaded down could add a decent amount of weight depending whats in there. But sounds like your good to go.

I still hate to max out equipment, if truck weighs 8k I like to have 12k stands etc.

I like overkill regardless of what it is.

Exactly... safety factor! I still wouldn't put that truck up on a 9k lift.

It aint worth taking any chances like that. Several years ago, I bought metal car/ truck ramps at a local swapmeet, for 20 bucks. They were the stamped metal type. I had intended to change the oil on my truck, so I drove my truck onto the ramps. I went inside the house to grab a beer (mandatory when working on your truck). I came back out and saw that the ramp under the right front wheel had collapsed. Man I was sure glad I wasnt under it when it came down. I later slant cut railroad ties and made full length ramps that I can drive my truck and car on, front and rear wheels. "On-the-cheap" is not always a good thing.