No, I wasnt going to do a muffler delete. I was just going to cut it off right in front of the muffler, at the hanger. Being directly under the cab, it would be loud as all get out.
---AutoMerged DoublePost--- Also looking for the stock F350 rear blocks, if you guys could point me in the right direction, I'd appreciate it. |
No, it wouldn't. It will be 10x louder behind the cab. I've run my truck with just basically a downpipe before, it was WAY quieter than my stacks are. You will simply not have any more in-cab noise than you will with stacks. Trust me, been there, done that.
The blocks are going to be on the forums bud, probably not here as we don't have a very good for sale section. Check out powerstrokearmy.com or powerstrokenation.com :c: |
Are the rear blocks both the same for F350's and F350 SD's?
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They should be the same from 03-07 as far as I know, but I wouldn't get anything outside of those years.
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What is the height difference between the F250 stock rear end and the front end after installing the 2.5 inch leveling kit? Do I have to switch to the F350 blocks or is there another way to level it?
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Right now, a tape measure and a pair of floor jacks are your new best friends.
Put one floor jack under each side of the front axle, go up 2 1/2" (axle height, NOT under the tire height) with the axle straight. Presto! you just simulated a 2 1/2" front lift! Now, step back and look at the truck, it's either sitting level or it's not. If it's not, you have 2 options: 1. Figure out why and adjust the accordingly. 2. Avoid the entire see-saw thing and get a complete lift kit. Because this is a coil sprung truck with trailing arms, your puck lift may induce negative camber. This mandates a trip to the local alignment shop to check and possibly bring the caster back to factory specs. |
Reading other sites, guys are talking about whether they need flat blocks or the tapered blocks from the 350...whats that about? I am finding that the blocks seem to be extremely hard to find.
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
Originally Posted by Karls03
(Post 968053)
Right now, a tape measure and a pair of floor jacks are your new best friends.
Put one floor jack under each side of the front axle, go up 2 1/2" (axle height, NOT under the tire height) with the axle straight. Presto! you just simulated a 2 1/2" front lift! Now, step back and look at the truck, it's either sitting level or it's not. If it's not, you have 2 options: 1. Figure out why and adjust the accordingly. 2. Avoid the entire see-saw thing and get a complete lift kit. Because this is a coil sprung truck with trailing arms, your puck lift may induce negative camber. This mandates a trip to the local alignment shop to check and possibly bring the caster back to factory specs. I also got a saaaweeeet hookup from a couple of trucker buddies today. One of them has a set of 6 inch stacks that are 43 inches. He offered them to me and no matter what I say, he won't take a dime for them. So I am going to cut them to size and weld reduction pieces to them for my truck. The other guy has a y-pipe for the bed that he was going to use on his Dodge. He decided to go with a single stack, so he sold it to me for $100. Cant beat that!! All said and done, I may end up with a couple hundred bucks in the system! |
As for the blocks... I remember reading into it when I did mine, and the different blocks came on different bed/cab configurations, it's basically to get the pinion angle correct. I remember I read about it, some guys said it made a difference, others didn't... I put flat blocks on my extended cab short box, which I would think if anything would need the tapered blocks... but I can't recall. I just put on whatever I could find, no issues here.
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