Egr delete and stc fitting upgrade now wont start
 

So I just had mu egr cooler welded shut and stc fitting an dupgraded now it wont star. It carnks really wierd also. It soumds like im getting really high compression In a couple cylinders almost. Its normal then bogs then normal and bogs......... Im lost here. Im worried I did something wrong. I have to work tonight too. Please help asap

It takes alot of cranking to get the air out, most times you need to put a battey charger on it because it can kill the bats before you gt it to fire up. It will take about 20to40 miles of driving to get the rest of the air out too. if it is a late 04 to 07 truck you can pull the ICP sensor on pass side valve cover and crank untill you get oil, thenreinstall it and crank again till it fires up.

so i did that and got it running. i havnt hooked the icp back up yet becuase i had to get ready for work. but i took it for a ride to get all the air out and some jack ass :w2: didnt hook the intercooler exhaust clamp up and i hear and pressure build and then a POP and it scared the shit out of me. i thought i shot a rod or something. but i got it hooked back up and now my batteries are dead so im gonna let em charge overnight and give it a shot in the morning, hope my batteries arnt shot :argh:

LOL... Even the most experianced driver will PUCKER when the boots blow! Glad to hear you got it running. I'm really starting to use Mdub's excuse alot... Got the parts but not eager to get back under the hood. I forgot about being about to breed the system thru the vavle cover. Glad I read this stuff :yeah:

Yeah I've only had the parts to do my headgaskets sitting on my kitchen table for like a year, not too bad...

My cab will be off before December... I have no choice now. Broke the damn flex plate and it's 1/2 apart sitting at a dealer. I have to go in and swear a lot at them, pay a ridiculous bill for a 1/2 done truck, get it towed somewhere else, fix it and take the cab off to do studs/gaskets and everything else under the sun. Soon... I can't wait to get it running again and beat on it like the red headed step child that it is.:rocking:

the only problem im having now is i cant get the up pipe to line up with the turbo exhaust inlet. any tricks or tips

Yes, this is an easy fix and very common, I drove around for a month with a major boost leak and the smell of burnt diesel in my cab lol.

Loosen the up-pipe at both ends. Loosen the y-pipe connection at the turbo, loosen the downpipe connection at the turbo and loosen the turbo mount bolts, but leave everything attached. First thing you tighten down is the y-pipe to the turbo connection, that is the most common leak point. Then tighten down the up-pipe to the y-pipe connection, then tighten the up-pipe to the exhaust manifold connection. That y-pipe to turbo connection is the most common leak point, and it's nearly impossible to get sealed if you don't tighten it first. The v-band wont pull the two together, so force them together by hand and then tighten it down. Then you can tighten down the downpipe, and lastly tighten down the turbo mount bolts. I've actually seen trucks without any turbo mount bolts, but they will stay in place with all of those other connections. :c:

i work with v bands on aircraft pressurization and climate control and usaly if you get them close the v-band will pull them together but this one has just kicked my a** day in and day out. thanks for the advice ill give that a go around this weekend. the only other thing thats getting my trumped is i got a coolant leak somewhere. the only things that i can think of is the egr cooler coolant inlet or i got a crack in the block somewhere. all the freeze plugs are in good and the heads dont look warped by anymeans. i get a little smoke on start up but thats just raw diesel form cranking. im stumped here

Usually a coolant leak right after an EGR delete is that big rubber donut o-ring. It can also be the clamps that hold the cooler delete on. Can you get an idea of where its' coming from? If the truck is running does it constantly push out?

easiest way to see it is to wait till it gets dark and use a flashlite, use one with a smaller beam so you focus on a smaller area, look down right behind the intake elbow, try snugging up the 2 bolts that hold the egr cooler /delete/ to the intake, also check the intake bolts again, I usually go over them 3 times because as you tighten more of them up the first ones you tightened get loose.