Cracked up pipe after EGR delete?
 

Hey all. Just had a pdr performance egr delete and stock oil cooler done and 2 injectors replaced. I also have an sct tuner with tunes for stock head bolts and I also replaced the degass cap with the stant cap recommended at powerstroke help. I am putting my gauges in and while doing so unhooked the battery. After doing the electrical components only, I checked the function and hooked the battery back up. I didnt have time to install any of the sensors and put everything away for the night . I start my truck up and after it reached operating temp it started to have this high pitched whistle from roughly 1200 to no more than 1750. At 1750 it stops until the revs reach that range again after a shift. From the research I've done ive convinced myself that it's a cracked y pipe in the accordion part. Or perhaps inter cooler boots but have no real idea of inspecting them. I did not see any soot but do smell a little bit of exhaust in the cab when the truck is ice cold. My question is this. Did I miss something small and jump to conclusions? Would reloading the tuner be necessary after a battery pull? I checked the degass bottle as it sounded like a tea kettle whistle. Deeper and much much louder than the turbo whine. No boost loss. Secondly, would this be warranty as the egr delete was done less than a month ago? What is the cost to replace the y pipe with a solid piece ? Labor? Thanks a bunch for any help. KCCO. Jeff

so it only makes the noise between 1200-1750 rpm no matter how much boost its making? when the egr delete was done did they use the puck or did they replace the up pipe?

Chive On

After running it a bit hard today. I noticed that it whines a bit now when I get on it at around 2200-2300 very briefly. It won't do it until it cycles through that range up to 1750 a couple times. I'm not certain about the puck. They make the kits in house and I assume they include the new pipe. How could I check?

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Behind the turbo I can see a new stainoess pipe that connects to the bellows. That's where I'm feeling around for air movement and soot. No soot but I can smell exhaust.:scare2:

seems your on the right track but right now i'm not sure if its exhaust or boost that is leaking. we have seen the pipes crack where you are talking about. i've also seen the boot at the turbo outlet crack. could be that they didnt get that pipe sealed off good.

It seems to only happen when its warm . Sometimes at idle. When I rev it up it goes away for a couple mins until it creeps up again. Its going back to pdr diesel monday for them to have a look. Tabernach. Just spent 3gs making it right now this. I am mech inclined but when it comes to diesel engines...there is a lot to learn to say the least. I think I've done all I can besides attempting to remove the turbo.Thanks

Good idea letting them check it out. Could very possibly be something they will cover.

Sent with a Droid RAZR in one hand and 14,000 volts in the other.

Update: the drivers side y pipe was cracked at the bellows. Pdr custom makes them mandrel bent in house with heavy duty flex coupler. Still 3 hours labour and 290 for custom jobby. Thanks for the help

Yeah it's a common crack point, my guess is they actually cracked it moving it around when they did the delete though...

Chive on!:c:

Well, I havnt paid yet. Lol. I can assume they probably helped it along. But reading here leads me to believe they are weak to the point of their own failure. What can I say? They came down 125$ on the whole deal. I'm a welder by trade so I've got them putting he old pipes in the truck for some rework. Lots of good threads on here for alignment jigging and substitue parts. Gonna gonna give it a try. :humm:

Yeah another common leak point is the up-pipe, when they put the solid one on. Might have both issues going on.