idle cuts out, erratic, has EGR DELETE
 

So i had this 2005 f250 with a no start hot, and rough idle after a long cruise -HPO leak, found the green o ring at the IPR cut, replaced all o rings, stand tubes, dummy plugs, flushed oil cooler, replaced HPOP screen with SS upgrade, EGR delete. truck starts and performs great.

Upon re-assembally, i came accross a small spring, 1 1/2" x 3/8", LPO supply spring was in place, so were stand tube springs. so i guess if fell out of the air?

NEW ISSUE: on cruise the idle will become irratic, jump up and down almost like a run away deisel. usually between 1500-2500 RPM, you can actually hear the injectors turning off completely when it cuts out after the high RPM spurts. Couldnt hook up a scanner as i couldnt get ahold of one. figured ICP was going out the door, so replaced that with a new one, same damn issue. I cant figure anything to cause this aside the EGR delete with no tune. Also i have a sputter when you let off the throttle now, and it is the injectors cutting out aswell. we all know how they sound, and i can hear them shut right down/off. I have tried the truck with the EGR plugged in sitting in the engine bay, and unplugged. no difference. And on cold starts the truck almost acts like its running on 4/5 cylinders and it shackes like a son of a bitch, but a quick brap of the throttle fixes that issue....
Any ideas as to what the hell could be causing this stupid issue. i could imagine TPS, lack of EGR, maybe a FICM, but why doesnt it have other issues, or all out crapped out yet...

Can you post a picture of this spring? I wonder if it's the fuel pressure regulator spring???

Have you tried getting the codes read, if there are any? Doesn't need a check engine light to have codes either.

well here it is, also shifts are out to lunch due to some power lacking issues.
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a351/bob442/photo.jpg
i did not pull apart the filter assembally, just pulled the banjo bolts to the lines, the cooler assembally how ever i took all apart to replace gaskets and flush out the cooler.

When this thing start up in the morning, it chugs like crazy, between 800-2500 RPM. i really cant imagine what the hell is causing this, best of all i have a customer that cant seem to bring it to me, but still drive it.... i had noticed the air temp sensor was cracked when i was assembling it but i dont think this would cause a issue when its cold even. gonna get a scanner tonight and hopefully the truck tomorrow

Well I still have no idea what it is, in gonna test ficm, tps, check wiring and I'm out of ideas. I can't find any pictures of this spring, so maybe it fell into my parts tray by accident

I'd really like to see what ICP desired and ICP actual are doing... hard to diagnose without access to some sort of scanner. AE with enhanced Ford bundle is only $360...

So I found a link on YouTube of a truck doing the same thing this pos is doing. Said it was a ficm. So I'm gonna open her up tonight and go over the solder joints that are on the ficm repair guides. It had 2 new batteries, but I did crank her a while before she got going when I did the hpo supply o rings so maybe that did it in

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i had a long day, truck was dropped off, i plucked the FICM, didnt test for voltage, but i just went ahead with the solder guide job, re-installed it and truck does the same crap. gonna test voltage tomorrow while the trucks is running poorly, because it will occasionally run perfectly fine... it does what this truck does exatcly, sometimes more choppy, but no smoke ever.

Probably would have been a good idea to test voltages first. Most places wont touch a FICM if it's been opened up and soldered on already unfortunately. Where are you located? Maybe someone near you has AE and can check your ICP numbers. Pretty much shooting in the dark without it right now.

well, the 4 bolts on the ficm test 1- 0.0v 2- 0.0v 3- 11.76v 4- 48.98v....

Hmm Wants to run away runs really rough just like that truck in the video... Clears up ONLY when you give it throttle... Whats your oil level at? Ive seen the injectors stick open on these and cause them to run literally on 4 cylinders. Usually only 1 bank of injectors while the other on the power balance are all below the threshold significantly...

Ok the first 3 measurements basicaly mean nothing, that last one that was 48.98, you need to check that pin under three conditions, key on engine off, cranking, and running. They will sometimes hold 48+V for key on and cranking, then drop once they're running. You need to check all 3 conditions, that pin only.