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Lots of ?'s & info needed NEW IDI!
I have had my 94 dually IDI Turbo 5spd 140k miles chassis cab now for 2months, enough time to get to know it anyway. Start with the unknown what gear ratio do I have? 2000 rpm @65 in 5th gear. I am thinking they are 3.55's. Also I pull a heavy load in town and find that between each shift it looses 900 rpm which leaves it doggy and smoking a little out the tailpipe which is probably not good for it so I try to shift close to 2500rpm so it has power in the next gear. Would you be shifting at a higher RPM than that? keep in mind Fuel milage.
Truck runs hot to me at times up to 215 and would probably go higher if I let it (has aftermarket gauge). Also only when it gets hot its running down the highway and its 85 plus deg outside. I know the fan clutch is bad, but everything else works you can see the thermostat kicking in and out, coolant is clean ect.. No trailer and no A/C it will always stick around 200 deg. Priced out a fan clutch at o reilys they wanted 140$!!!! WTF Now trans/clutch issue. New clutch (ford) 4k miles on it new slave cylinder (previous owner), new linkage parts under dash that were wore and new master cylinder (Me). Problem is alway a guess if you can catch reverse with out it grinding and some of the other gears @ times feels like the clutch wont disengage all the way to let it go into gear. damage already done to tranny??? Front end. I have read here how to shake the front end down and have tried two different times to find loose parts and all seams pretty good except for the box which I tightened up with good success and a bent steering stabilizer (maybe the problem??). Problem is what I call death steer, where the truck feels like it is tracking back and forth over a road crown or something, uncontrollable at times and very intermittent. Also has one front tire worn to irregular to align plus I dont want to hear an alignment shop bitch about why they cant align my old truck so I havnt taken it in. Uno Moss! for now anyway. Truck runs great and starts good cold but you have to touch the diesel pedal just a little bit for a few seconds to get it to snap out of a rough idle, then it runs perfect. Not to concerned but maybe you guys have something. I Lied lol. This week switch was on the front tank and it burned all the fuel out of the rear. Love the truck tho and would like to get you guys some pics you will appreciate a really nice old IDI. not sure if I know how yet. THANKS FOR THE REPLIES! ---AutoMerged DoublePost--- Comment on one thing if you want. Are there not many IDI guys here? |
Originally Posted by GrassHauler
(Post 908483)
I have had my 94 dually IDI Turbo 5spd 140k miles chassis cab now for 2months, enough time to get to know it anyway. Start with the unknown what gear ratio do I have? 2000 rpm @65 in 5th gear. I am thinking they are 3.55's. Also I pull a heavy load in town and find that between each shift it looses 900 rpm which leaves it doggy and smoking a little out the tailpipe which is probably not good for it so I try to shift close to 2500rpm so it has power in the next gear. Would you be shifting at a higher RPM than that? keep in mind Fuel milage.
the motor is designed to run at the gov, whichis 3300 rpm. you can shift there if needed. as for your gearing, see if there is a tag on the rear axle, this will have the ratio as the first numbers. it will be either 3.55 or 4.10. Truck runs hot to me at times up to 215 and would probably go higher if I let it (has aftermarket gauge). Also only when it gets hot its running down the highway and its 85 plus deg outside. I know the fan clutch is bad, but everything else works you can see the thermostat kicking in and out, coolant is clean ect.. No trailer and no A/C it will always stick around 200 deg. Priced out a fan clutch at o reilys they wanted 140$!!!! WTF the fan clutch is your issue. the truck should have a 190 thermostat in it. and depending on where they mounted the sending unit CAN give you higher temps then other locations. 215 isnt to bad, the fan clutch wont lock solid until 233 degrees. your overheat idiot lamp comes on around 245ish. Now trans/clutch issue. New clutch (ford) 4k miles on it new slave cylinder (previous owner), new linkage parts under dash that were wore and new master cylinder (Me). Problem is alway a guess if you can catch reverse with out it grinding and some of the other gears @ times feels like the clutch wont disengage all the way to let it go into gear. damage already done to tranny??? trans might be hurt by now. but the hydaulics cn be a pain in the ass to bleed the air out of. most of the time it needs to be done OFF the truck then installed as one unit. sounds like there is air in the line. Front end. I have read here how to shake the front end down and have tried two different times to find loose parts and all seams pretty good except for the box which I tightened up with good success and a bent steering stabilizer (maybe the problem??). Problem is what I call death steer, where the truck feels like it is tracking back and forth over a road crown or something, uncontrollable at times and very intermittent. Also has one front tire worn to irregular to align plus I dont want to hear an alignment shop bitch about why they cant align my old truck so I havnt taken it in. needs to be alighned. it isnt hard to do on these, be nice to them and spray steering links down a few days before you take it with pb blaster or the like to help it move. Uno Moss! for now anyway. Truck runs great and starts good cold but you have to touch the diesel pedal just a little bit for a few seconds to get it to snap out of a rough idle, then it runs perfect. Not to concerned but maybe you guys have something. not quite sure what you are saying here, explain more please. I Lied lol. This week switch was on the front tank and it burned all the fuel out of the rear. sounds like the fuel switch on the driverside framerail is stuck or your switch is bad. if you do need a selector on the framerail, ford only part. it is expensive though. Love the tr uck tho and would like to get you guys some pics you will appreciate a really nice old IDI. not sure if I know how yet. THANKS FOR THE REPLIES! ---AutoMerged DoublePost--- Comment on one thing if you want. Are there not many IDI guys here? |
Temp gauge is mounted in the top of the water pump, directly below the oil fill. It doesnt seam to ever run at 190 alway 200 or higher so I will try the fan clutch first and the thermostat to see if I can get it close to 190. Also I have no idea if the pump was ever turned up, I know it would make higher egts so I would assume engine temp as well. But the truck is really untouched since new, any way to tell if it was turned up?
As far as the clutch goes there very well could be air in the line but the clutch pedal is firm at the top and not squishy at all, but it does engage really hard if a newbie gets in and tries to drive it. I have adapted to it and can do it pretty smooth. During cold start i have to push on the gas pedal slightly for about 5-10 seconds or the truck will really run rough especially if the a/c is on it will try to die. But after the 5-10 seconds you can let off the pedal and it runs perfect or i can kick it into high idle and that works too. Thanks for the responses! ---AutoMerged DoublePost--- tag on the read axle says, S189K and 101024A20 ---AutoMerged DoublePost--- Found rear end info its a 4.10 |
When you start it and it's running rough, is it smoking? And if so is said smoke white?
Does it start hard? If it starts hard then I would say air intrusion. If not then a couple of bad glow plugs. |
I'm experiencing the same thing starting my truck shakes and hiccups and runs extremely rough before it stabilizes. Even when starting in 90 deg. Weather. After a few seconds it purrs like a kitten.
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It does smoke but not white and not all the time. For instance, if I have the A/C running when starting (A/C makes it worse pulls the idle down further). I need to pay more attention to the color next couple of starts. It does smell normal on cold starts like burnt diesel should.
I dont think it starts hard at all, pretty consistent cold or hot. There is a leak where the lift pump is (right front lower part of the block). I cleaned the area a few weeks ago so I could try to decipher if there is actually a leak there. Any common issues that might be causing the leak? If there was air intrusion would you start at the tanks and work forward? What would you be looking for? Or would you have to vacuum pump everything? I heard these things are hungry for glow plugs, would a couple of bad ones cause unburnt fuel in a few cylinders and maybe the loud noise that is hard to describe, sometimes happens when started like I described above with the A/C. Also to prevent the glow plugs from burning up I don't run them at all when the engine is hot. Is this correct? Hope this makes sense, thanks for helping out guys. |
Originally Posted by GrassHauler
(Post 909791)
It does smoke but not white and not all the time. For instance, if I have the A/C running when starting (A/C makes it worse pulls the idle down further). I need to pay more attention to the color next couple of starts. It does smell normal on cold starts like burnt diesel should.
I dont think it starts hard at all, pretty consistent cold or hot. There is a leak where the lift pump is (right front lower part of the block). I cleaned the area a few weeks ago so I could try to decipher if there is actually a leak there. Any common issues that might be causing the leak? If there was air intrusion would you start at the tanks and work forward? What would you be looking for? Or would you have to vacuum pump everything? I would start by pressurizing fuel system (about 5-6 psi) shop regulated dry air supply.. use heavy soapy water and you will find your bubbles will lead you to the right place... use some line crimpers to pinch lines @ tanks as close as you can get.... pull fill cap just incase I heard these things are hungry for glow plugs, would a couple of bad ones cause unburnt fuel in a few cylinders and maybe the loud noise that is hard to describe, sometimes happens when started like I described above with the A/C. Also to prevent the glow plugs from burning up I don't run them at all when the engine is hot. Is this correct? Hope this makes sense, thanks for helping out guys. hope this helps |
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