More Fuel for 6.9 IDI
 

hmmmm let me see what i can dig up for you:humm:

agnem over on oilburners has moose misters for sale i think for 400 bucks. If you want you can get pessure matched code"BB" off a 91 or 92. I also heard a rumor that ATS makes 75 horse sticks but not sure I can't find any research on them:s:

Thanks...checkin' all out right now! :tu:

The moose misters are around $1000. Agnem(Mel) or typ4(Russ) on oilburners can hook you up witha set of brand new pressure matched BB injectors for about $300. These guys take the time to test/shim to ensure all the injectors pop at similar pressures. I got my injectors from russ and am very happy with them.

As for the injection pump, other than turning up the fuel screw, there is only one place to get a performance IP. Agnem hooked up with a stanadyne repairman and they created the moose pumps. They have a baby moose which is a factory rebuild that eliminates all the shortcuts taken by larger manufacturers. The regular moose pump is modified to allow more fuel than a standard pump. He recently came out with a Super moose, but it's only for decompressed, turbo'd, intercooled motors. He doesn't sell the pumps though, you send him your pump or a rebuildable core and he does the modifications and sends it back. So far I have only seen satisfied customers. :tu:

I lied before, I just remembered that DPS sell a performance IP. I've heard enough bad things about there products and service to avoid them though, at least as far as IDI parts are concerned.

Sorry I thought I heard that moose were 400 bucks my bad mistake to mislead I guess I should try to stay on a horse a lil' longer before I become pro:w2:

Pump it up
 

Thanks guys for all of the info. That Super Moose sounds like a decent fuel booster. Like I said, I have another Garrett turbo but it will be a real booger to fandangle in the tight space. Plus, all of the plumbing is up to me, good thing I have a friend with a pipe bender and tons of fab tools. Compression may be a bit of a problem, but I don't think so. I just will have to keep one eye on the pyro(s) when I'm into it for a long time. Thanks again. Let 'er smoke! :tu:

did u lower compression? studded?

Not yet, but since the heads are coming off anyway, now would be the time to do it. I have got some seeping on the passenger side rear corner. Oil analysis came back with small traces of glycol, so it's head gasket time. The stock head bolts are wimpy and costs about $110 per side. That's a lot of moola for the wimpy things that have a tendency to pit rust! If I plumb the other turbo in, how much would you suggest I lower the compression? I don't want to get into the throttle and start putting too much pressure on the connecting rods. Kaboom is something I would rather leave out of my vocabulary. The engine is fairly fresh, rebuilt (done right) about 60K miles ago.

Mill about .030 off the tops of the pistons.

WOW! That's a little more than I expected. That'll take her up to 423 cubic inches. Might as well just go ahead and tear it completely down since I will be into it that far. That's not cutting too much off huh? Seems like taking that much off and squirting that much fuel in there is going to make for a lot of heat on the surface of the pistons. Oh well, that's what I get for doing Tim the Tool Man Taylor's More Power thing. Thanks for all the info!:tu:

I believe one guy took .045 off his pistons. The guy who went .030 is also running a moose pump and and near 20psi.

I'll take a deeper look into how much I want to carve off of the pistons. If I think there is enough meat there to go .035-.040 inch, I might. I wonder if some of the aftermarket guys have pistons for these critters like Badger or something...I doubt it, but I'll check into it. Since I have that other turbo on the shelf, (and it's screaming for me to use it), I know I will have the volume to run whatever boost pressure my little old heart desires. I just don't want to scatter the bottom end all over the highway. I guess that's where taking my leaded foot out of it and making two trips instead of one comes into play. Thanks for all the help!:rocking:

Another thing to realize is that lowering the compression will affect cold starting. It might not be by much, but you will likely notice it. The gentleman who removed .045 uses his truck to plow out east and says it still always starts, it just takes a bit longer than it used to.

Did your friend have any problems with the top ring land cracking or anything? Did he have the whole top milled off or did he form a "dish" in the top so it would leave some meat up near the top ring groove? Or do you know? Thanks again, but starting isn't an issue. I live in the Pacific Northwest, we swim more than we freeze. Besides, I run 50/50 stove oil/Diesel fuel.

more fuel for 6.9
 

on the left side of pump the a triangle shape door. there a couple sites that tell you exactly
how . too much fuel wont give you power just smoke. junk yard ! pumps or 25- 50 and injector are a dollar sometimes more. take yours out and go get 8 more then go to a diesel pump shop have them checked cost a dollar a piece take best eight reinstall. be careful theres a o ring on tip and a little brass washer.if the runs smooth and you your getting reasonable power its prob ok the reason there aftermarket turbos is that the asp 6.9 wasnt
satisfactry to some people . its a great truck with a great engine. new rebuilt pumps 250 and new injectors 16. on a powerstroke its 2800 and 450. lov your truck

He's got around 50k miles and no problems so far.