1985 f250 6.9 problems
 

i recently bought a 1985 f250 6.9turbo 4x4 w/4spd and there are a couple things that are wrong with it that i have no idea what they are.


1. i tried starting it today when it was cold and that glow plug light kept flashing on and off and i heard the controller clicking but it would start until my dad sprayed starting fluid:ouch:. is this the glowplugs or the controller?

2. is there any kind of clamp or something that goes on the exhaust side of the turbo to the downpipe because it is smoking out of the exhaust side around the edge of the downpipe.

3. when i was tryin to start it, it quit turning over witht the key. i had the clutch in and all that and it still wouldn't work even after we tightened some wires so we had to start it by using a screwdriver in the start solenoid to get it to turn over. what could cause this?

4. this is the worst. when ever you have the truck in gear and the clutch all the down, it keeps pulling. if you don't hold the brake to the floor, the truck will go like you let out halfway on a good clutch. then to get into first or reverse, you have to shut the truck off to get it in\out of gear. is this the clutch or the slave cylinder?


any advise is appreciated.

#1: Sounds like the glow plugs are all burnt out. Need to either wire in a momentary switch or replace the controller. Along with all the glow plugs.

#2: I'm not sure

#3: Sounds like the safety switch went. Tie both wires together, and if it turns over with the key, found the problem

#4: Not sure on that one either

#1 More than likely glow [plugs
#2 ?
#3 Try Wildbills idea
#4 Open hood, Have someone push on clutch. See if firewall is flexing where master cylinder mounts.:c:

yes, check firewall for cracks. if you need it i can email u the TSB from ford with partnumbers to repair firewall if it is cracked. it is very common.

Regarding question #2, I know on the ATS turbo, the down pipe is just pressed in the outlet, the banks turbo does use a clamp, but I'm not sure about the hypermax. The newer hypermax kits appear to use a clamp though.

Regarding question #4, if your firewall checks out ok, the 85 fords should have an adjustable pushrod on the clutch master cylinder which can be adjusted under the dash.

i have to buy the "big" firewall kit from ford for $126:argh:.

does anyone know how to stop the leak around my downpipe because everything under the hood is turning black. it has a hypermax turbo that was put on about 4yrs ago

the hypermax kits have a v-band clamp on them just like the factory ats system. its possible that the downpipe is flush to the flares or the clamp is just loose.

i would loosen the clamp a bit and wiggle the downpipe as much as possible as you tighten it back down. but you should be able to see the down pipe as the turbo sits perpendicular to the truck?:humm: there are two hypermax systems. do yo have a crossover pipe under the engine and trans? if not you have the pulse type with up pipes from each manifold.:tu:

as far as the glowplugs. find some beru/motorcrafts and switch over to the late 7.3l system and controller. my plugs have lasted for nearly three years.:jump:

what would i have to buy to switch to the 7.3 system?

also the turbo doesn't have a clamp on it? should it have one?

Clutch Issues
 

THe reason that the clutch is not working is because of the fire wall, in these old fords it gets weak were the resivor for the clutch mounts and it flexes when you engage the clutch so you have to find a firewall flex plate or just do what i did and remove the resivor and weld a plate on the fire wall to take the give out of it and brace it then it will work like new it took me about an hour to fix this and that was making the brace and welding it in and removing and replaceing components on the fire wall. You are better off to make a brace because they dont make them any more. i just used a 1/8 or 1/4 inch piece of steel plate.

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THe glow plug relay is bad and not holding constant power so you just need to replace it it is like 20 bucks at autozone or advance and it is about a ten minute job then the light should stop flashing and give you a constant.