7.3L IDI Glow Plug Relay System Testing Procedure
 

The Glow plug system is a different beast on the 7.3L IDI. So I made a recent video on how to test it and what all these extra wires are compared to the newer 7.3L Powerstroke engines. I hope this helps as information on the early 7.3L engines can be scarce at best.

Great post, I know I wish I had this when I did my relay a couple months back, Now what would you do if it works, but continously clicks only on the cold start, I'll post a video of it

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Keep in mind, that is after the WTS light goes out, I've been trying to figure it out but no dice :humm:

One or more glow plugs are dead. This system is based on resistance which is based on temperature being a positive temperature coefficient design. See the other part of my video series on this below for the clicking issue.

I have checked all of them, and they were just fine though, I might just replace them though :dang:

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Also , the rubber cover for the connectors on the glowplugs are missing on a couple of mine, I thought this was the problem, but never got around to seeing

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BTW. I LOVE how clean that engine is o.o makes mine look like a sh*t hole haha :argh:

I love a good clean engine.:tu:..:rocking::yeah:

She's a bute

From what I've found out is, that when your voltage is down around 8, your glow plugs are heating up. When it starts clicking after the initial warm up, that a cycle mode to aid in start up and clean up your exhaust upon initial start up. It seams normal, I just replace all my plugs and my controler/relay and that's how mine is working. Except for my wait to start light has a mind of its own.

So the clicking after the WTS light is normal? Just wondering, cause his video says otherwise, yet I'm not the only one with this :td:

As shown in my video multiple plugs bad constant clicking never really latches to warm glow plugs, I changed 7 plugs with 1 bad one stuck in the head, wanted to start the truck to warm the threads so I could get the last plug out in doing so the relay now latched for 10-15 seconds and only clicked the very last part of the cycle. I was able to get the last one out and then you see in the video it stays on the whole time even after the WTS lamp goes out (WTS lamp on time is independent of the GPR on time) and then unlatches no clicking. It should not be clicking rapidly ever that would just wear the internal high current contacts out fast. It does have an afterglow cycle built into it as they call it for emissions (excessive white smoke cold start) but same thing it should stay on no clicking.

Alright, thank you :choochoo: