Lowering EGT's
 

O.K....her's the question, I have asked a number of people and so far there is no common answer...Since I upgraded to the "Hot Juice" my EGT's climb alot faster, I have heard everything from a bigger intercooler too a bigger turbo...injectors you name it. Any ideas on how I could lower them...Ive read that a boost fooler will lower them around 275 degrees but I dont want to invest in something that isnt going to work.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

A bigger turbo would get my vote, as to the boost fooler, doesn't the edge already boost fool? How much boost do you see?

Have you considered water/meth injection?

Ive hit 52 lbs of boost, so I dont want to go with a boost fooler unless Iam sure it would work, as for the injection...from what Ive heard it is the same as running nitrous on a car not built for it and cut down the life of the motor.
Iam at a loss here.

I just installed this Mega Mouth elbow off the back of the turbo and it has made a huge difference in EGT's. It stays around 100 degrees cooler at full boost on my truck, but the huge difference is how fast it cools down when I get out of it. I can go from 1000 to 300 within seconds. My truck has never been over the 1000 degree mark and with this thing installed I can't hit a 1000 even with the Drag Comp turned all the way up.

Im not an expert but I really dont think water/meth will hurt the engine. Nitrous...maybe, but I kind of doubt that as well. These are medium duty engines and the internals are pretty stout.

Well the thing is with water/meth, if you run to much methanol...your headgasket really stops liking you. You could run the water injection solely for the egt lowering. But that's more of a bandaid. From the looks of your truck you're not gonna stop bombing anytime soon. I'd say get a bigger turbo.

the third gens are smooth 4 inch right off the turbo, no small restrictive elbow

W/M isnt too bad. You can run straight water or even windshield wiper fluid is pretty cheap. It is nice B/C you can add more meth for the track or run wiper fluid or straight water just to cool. A good mix and just a small amount will help alot. You dont have to have two huge nozzles with it cranked up, I just run 1.

Water or turbo... I think 52lbs of boost on a stock turbo has you living on borrowed time already. Maybe you can kill two birds with one stone.

Thats what Iam thinking, but it never hurts to get some info from others, I just cant believe the varried opinions I have gotten...the injectors is the one I didnt understand...correct me if Iam wrong but more fuel equals more power and more heat, correct or am I way off base here?

sorry man for some reason i thought you already had a turbo. I would definetley start there. i dont even see 52 psi out of my 62/12

Thats what I thought but I aint the sharpest tool in the shed....

i heard something about this a long time back. IIRC it gets to a point where the amount of fuel being put in gets to the point where it can't all be burned and actually starts to cool the cylinder a little bit. i think that's how it works but ain't for sure on the deal.

52lbs of boost! Yeah, your livin' on borrowed time with that tiny huffer. Without head studs, you are also REALLY risking your headgasket.

35lbs of COOL boost will net you way more HP than the 52lbs of HOT boost you're getting now.

an intercooler and/or water would help, but the problem is the turbo. 52lbs is way way way off the efficiency map for that turbo. No ammound of water or intercooling is going to cool down that air.

On the bigger inector cooling the cylinder deal... The extra fuel that can't be burned in the cylinder gets burned in the exhaust. That's where your black smoke comes from. To get enough of that unburned fuel in the combustion chamber to cool it, you're either going to "put the fire out", or you're going to create so much smoke that the truck would be undriveable.

For my .02... call a professional turbo organization like Industrial Injection or High Tech Turbo. Talk to someone about where you are and where you want to be.

In my opinion... it appears that you've got plenty of available funds. If that's true, you should certainly investigate a proper Twin Turbo setup.

Hope all that came out right....

Andy

"In my opinion... it appears that you've got plenty of available funds. If that's true, you should certainly investigate a proper Twin Turbo setup."
I wish this were the case, thats why Iam looking for answers before investing money I dont have into something I dont need. I have looked at Twin turbo set ups but they want a fortune for them, I have only hit 52 a couple times because Im affraid of trashing my turbo...but it seemed abit high to me. Does anyone know anything about Garrett turbos? That is the turbo that has been reccomended to put on my truck. But I have no idea what Iam looking for...How do you know if your getting what you need?

Who recomended it to you? I woudl call a GOOD shop/ turbo manfacture (I can't spell for sh!t today) and ask them what they think you need. You can give them all your info on what else the truck has... What you want to do in the future... and what you use it for. They will get you hooked up!

I trust who told me to put a Garrett on it, Im affraid that if I called the manufacturer they would just want to make a sell and may not shoot straight...so far driving like my grandma is working, but getting rather old hehehe
I figure who better to ask than people with a common interest, it's got to be better than the manufacturer.

Garrett makes awesome turbos, and so to Schwitzer, holset, borg/warner, turbonetics, etc. t3/t4 is a popular combo for a twins set-up.

Honestly, I can speculate that you should get "this" or "that"... but it could be a trial and error process finding one that suits you... Both HTT and II (that I mentioned above) are stand up companies. Talk to them.. figure out which one of them you trust the most... buy a turbo... try it out... they'll work with you on "tuning" it to your tastes.

Buying turbo's is like a suit off the rack vs. one that has been tailored to you. There's a LOT that goes into turbo design and selection.

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Also, let me address the "they just wanna make a sale"...

I've yet to hear of II or HTT pushing or pressuring people. They love power and going fast. They're both good companies and I belive that you will be glad you talked with either one.

I was thinking about a garret for mine until I saw how much one cost$$$$ maybe the guy I talked to quoted me hi, but because of that I decided against one. Look at industrial injection they have a nice selection to chose from.

Cool, thanks...I'll call them

The problem with single turbo set ups are that if you get one big enough to handle the heat of racing or pulling the spool up lag makes it hard for daily driving. That's why the twin set ups, it get's rid of the lag on the bottom end and gives you the extra exhaust room on the top end.

The new compromise to this in the singles is the variable geometery turbo's that are starting to hit the market. They cost a little more then a normal single, but don't have all the complicated plumbing and tuning of a twin set up so they come out a little cheaper then twins.

After I post the following statement, I'm gonna take a whip to myself for sayin it. One of the big success stories of the variable geometry is the one that is marketed by banks. They used the same turbo as comes on our Cummins as the platform and changed the fins and few of the inner workings to make it into a variable type unit.

These look pretty good to me...any thoghts?
HTB2/66 (+400 HP) - 550-625 HP 1225 ft. lbs. torque (SLED PULLER 66)
But so far I havent found a twin charger set up for an 05.

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Wow...I just found an ATS Aurora twin turbo for an 05...5200.00 bucks...OUCH!!! Theres got tobe a cheaper way to go

The injector question is a loaded one with alot of factors that can effect a common rail.52psig is way to my boost for the stock turbo at that point you are just shoving in hot air.I would suggest a larger turbo . Depending on what you are using the truck for maby compounds would be a thought. The stock head gasket on a common rail is amazing but if you are going to to try and push beyond 50psig consistantly head studs are in order.The camshafts are lacking in the hpcr motors for nox emissions control the cam timing has been retarded . If money is no object I would suggest an aftermarket cam to help spool up a larger turbo. Hope the helps good luck

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Just from experience I would becareful of the ATS compounds

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By the way I am an HTT dealer Call HTT and talk to the tech department and they can help you find the turbo best suited for your needs.These guys are honest to a fault.

you could keep your stock turbo on top and put a big turbo on bottom..... thats goin to be a couple grand cheaper then buying a set of twins

now that sounds better hehehe cheaper anyway

I know there are a few guys that sell a 1/2 or 3/4 kit for twins so you keep your stocker on top and it just comes with everything else.

Lets see some links.

Some of our sponsors might have kits.

I know that Rip sells the kits (as well as a bunch of other individual parts), but I think they are for second gens:

www.sourceautomotive.biz

Rip is who i was talking about but i didnt wanna step on any sponsors toes sorry.

lol

Yeah, it would be nice if people would at least check out our sponsors before buying....they have to eat too.

Thanks now I am hungry lol talk to jason (diesel nut motorsports) he might sell a good kit and he is a sponsor!

Cool thanks :U:

There's two things that can cause black smoke:

First of all, you might be using all of the air in the combustion chamber, and you only have fuel left over. In that case, the fuel particles do act as coolant by absorbing heat but not burning- the same reason water vapor acts like coolant. However, it is possible to dump in so much fuel that you get too much cylinder cooling and "put the fire out", or reduce temperature to the point that the Diesel that does have enough air to burn doesn't want to burn.

The second way to get black smoke is if there is enough air to totally burn the fuel, but due to retarded timing or inefficient atomization, there isn't enough time in the cylinder for the combustion to take place. In that case the fuel and air continues to burn even after leaving the valves. If you had a NASCAR with short exhaust pipes, this is when they start shooting flames. On a turbo Diesel you don't see the flames because they're busy roasting the turbocharger instead of flying out the tail pipe.

So extra fuel raises temperatures if you aren't using all your air, and it lowers temperatures if you are. I'm willing to bet that fellow-Phoenician Sharx's exhaust is a pretty rich mixture and that if he was going to get any afterburning, he'd have it already.

None of that is meant to imply that he doesn't need a much bigger turbocharger, or twins, or water injection.