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Heres Mine
5 Attachment(s)
This is some of my photos from the KORE install
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More
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https://www.dieselbombers.com/attach...6&d=1210542877
i meant here between the axle and the spring..... this looks to me like there are 2 blocks stacked together..... |
No that's one block.
I'm missing the overloads (i think) |
oh ok... must be the casting seam there in the middle. never had a 4wd truck so i didn't know how big a block was back there.
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Awesome idea. I like the reasoning. :U:
Originally Posted by Uncle Bubba
(Post 157195)
Took a few pictures in between the rain today.
Here is the rear springs. I moved the stock block that was under the overloads down under the main pack and put a new home made 3/4" thick block under the over loads. The factory block was that little bit taller is why I moved it. I also put a 1/8 inch block under the second spring in the main pack. This gives a smoother ride when not loaded. In essence it makes it a progessive spring pack. |
My trucks was actually listed as a Heavy Duty 3/4T when I bought it. I was told that the only difference between it and a single wheel 1 ton was that it had 1 less spring in the pack on each side of the rear. So all the trucks may not have the top overloads but I know everybody has the bottom over load spring.
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my 3500 didn't have the top overloads but did have the bottom overloads. GVWR on my truck is 10,500lbs FWIW. i took out the bottom overloads to increase my ride quality and man did it make a difference.....
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Thats why I seperated the springs that little bit. It softened the ride way up on the rear end and when I put weight in it they are all still there to hold it up. Get the best of both worlds. I should be loadin it down with the first loads of hay in a couple of weeks and that will be the true test over the road.
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cool idea. if i ever put it back in there i'll try that spacer. good thinkin'
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3 Attachment(s)
Here's the center console I threw together to mount accessories on. Right now it's got the brake controller and the Comp mounted with some switches yet to come. I'm gonna run some back-up light and fog lamp switches on there and tryin to decide if it's worthwhile to use a switch for the trailer lights that I can control by a seperate switch on here to.
Attachment 4404 Attachment 4405 Attachment 4406 |
Aren't you worried you'll crack a spring with the pressure points on your leafs? I know the load is supposed to balance, but with that fulcrum there where you separated them I'd be real worried they were gonna crack.
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Originally Posted by MotorOilMcCall
(Post 159255)
Aren't you worried you'll crack a spring with the pressure points on your leafs? I know the load is supposed to balance, but with that fulcrum there where you separated them I'd be real worried they were gonna crack.
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So you don't load heavy very often I take it? 'Cause if I did that to the shop truck those suckers would last about a month...
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Personally I like my overloads and the stiff ride but to smooth it out just throw some weight on it.
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The overloads get well used on this truck. But what I have there is the same thing that came in there from the factory, just about an 1/8 inch shorter in height is the only difference.
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Originally Posted by MotorOilMcCall
(Post 159255)
Aren't you worried you'll crack a spring with the pressure points on your leafs? I know the load is supposed to balance, but with that fulcrum there where you separated them I'd be real worried they were gonna crack.
Can you circle where you feel they would crack? |
The overloads got tested and held up so far. I had em bent backwards down over the spacer. 6000 pounds worth of gooseneck trailer along with 10ea 1500 plus pound round bales. The loads will get heavier later in the season, this was just first cutting.
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UB,
Looks great! ---AutoMerged DoublePost--- Chad, I have some D25 Front springs for my truck. Since it looks like you have already been through the process, how about I help you do mine? I am a great wrench getter and I can bring the refreshments. I can also bring some Elk or Deer meat for dinner. What do you say? :pca1: Do you have a list of front suspension parts you replaced (sway bar end links etc)? |
If your lookin for somethin not listed here let me know what and I'll try to hunt down the info.
Originally Posted by Uncle Bubba
(Post 155762)
This post will be in the making for a day or two. I'll just keep editing the same post as I find the paperwork and include all the info I can think of for each item. This project has taken so long because of all the wrong parts received and un-expected things that popped up so I'll try to save other that misery here.
New front sway bar bushings. $34 Link: Energy Suspension 5-5124G - Energy Suspension Sway Bar Bushings - summitracing.com New Front Sway Bar Links. $90 Link: Suspension Maxx SMX-1224L - Suspension MAXX Sway Bar End Links - summitracing.com New front coil springs. $190 a pair. 2 1/2 inch lift Soft Ride coils Rubber Coated. Link: Custom Suspension New Coil Spring Isolators. $48 for 3 sets needed to use them on top and bottom of both springs. Cheaper from Auto Zone but couldn't find their link. Link: Energy Suspension 9-6112G - Energy Suspension Coil Spring Isolators and Isolator Sets - summitracing.com New Bilstein 5100 shocks. $400 shipped for the set. These are for 2inch lift front and back. Front: F4-BE5-6681-H6 Rear: F4-BE5-6647 He doesn't show just the shocks on his site but here is the vendor link I paid this price from: High Desert Ravelco - Automotive Anti-theft device - Performance Parts & Truck Accessories D-T ProFab Trac Bar Rebuild kit. $45 Link: DODGE TRUCK PARTS GEN 2 New tie rod ends. New Rear Drums. New Rear Brake Cylinders. New Rear Brake Pads. New wheel studs on the rear wheels. $2 each Dorman Brand/Autozone Stock # 610-383.1 or OEM Part # 4746915 for $11 each New adjustable waste gate elbow. $15 Link: Source Automotive Performance Diesel - Adjustable Boost Elbow New Helper Springs on the rear. $100 per kit, can be had much cheaper elsewhere. Link: Custom Suspension New Grade 8 U-Bolts. $58 for the set. 9/16 thread 38 inches long grade 8. Link: Custom Suspension High Idle Selenoid Kit. $55 for complete adjustable kit. New Eccentric Bolts Complete W/Nuts and Washers. $56 Dealer only part. Black Silicone Intercooler Boot Set. $199 Link: Source Automotive Performance Diesel - Intercooler Boot Kit for 94-02 Dodge |
New front sway bar bushings. $34 Link: Energy Suspension 5-5124G - Energy Suspension Sway Bar Bushings - summitracing.com
New Front Sway Bar Links. $90 Link: Suspension Maxx SMX-1224L - Suspension MAXX Sway Bar End Links - summitracing.com It looks like both of these items have end links. Is that right? Thanks! |
Yep, your right. I wanted the heavy duty Maxx end links and the greasable sway bar bushings. The problem is that to get the greasable bushing you have to buy the set with the end links included. Energy Suspension only sells them in the kit to the retailers so unless you find a shop willing to break the package down your stuck. I just gave the end links away.
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I see.
Thanks, |
When you see these Maxx Links in person sittin next to the regular end links you'll see why they were worth the extra pain. These things are massive in size and even better get rid of the tie rod joint that creates the weak spot in the stock style links.
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Thanks for the explanation.
:c: |
Hey Uncle Bubba. What size socket do I need for the front axle nut? I've got a 1-5/8, but it's a hair too small.
Thanks man! Andy |
If your talkin the nut on the pitman arm, don't know, I had to use a pipe wrench cause I didn't have a socket big enough around handy when we did it. If you talkin about the nut on the axle ends for pulling the housings let me know and I'll have to look that one up for ya. Haven't done them in a year or two. Be glad to find it for ya though.
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I knew you'd come through for me! lol
I'm talking about the axle nut, which is a castelated nut. I'm trying to get the brake rotor / hub assembly off. I've got the caliper off, and the 4 bolts out of the back of the hub. I've got to get that big nut off so I can remove the hub/brake rotor assembly. putting new rotors on. Thanks man! Andy |
That castle nut is a 1 11/16" nut. Torque is as tight as you can get it or 175 pounds, whichever comes first. When you got a pot gut like mine I just layed on the breaker bar and called it tight enough.
When you get done with the front end I got a new project for you to try on the rear end next. I'm not brave enough to post the info yet but I'm gettin there. Gonna test it out in a few days with the heavy loads and if it works out I'll face the dis-believers and post it up for all to see. |
While you in there be sure to check everything in case there is more you can replace while your there. Ball joints, new studs, bearings, U-Joints or axle seals. Don't forget to use anti-seize on anything that doesn't hold a nut in place also just to be ready for the next time.
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Whoo hoo! Thanks man.
Yeah, I just had ball joints done, and the rest of the front end is good... minus the steering gear of course. Thanks dude! Andy |
Got the rotors replaced. Yepper, 1-11/16" was perfect. Orderd a Proto one from Grainger. Worked like a champ. Was $16 for the impact version after my Farm Bureau discount.
Man, that's one heck of a job just to replace rotors. Took me the better part of a day. Also found that I had a caliper siezed up. Ended up replacing both calipers (long story). New calipers, new pads, and new rotors. SMOOOOOOTH. Thanks again for the help. Andy |
Congrats, your done and not even cussin about it. Your a better man then me. In my world that jobs good for a couple of thrown tools and a whole mouth full of special words. Of course the couple of them I've done were both factory stuff that had a few years to weld itself in place. I'm hoping the re-do's will go easier.
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Ever get any finished pics of the whole truck?
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Originally Posted by MotorOilMcCall
(Post 203265)
Ever get any finished pics of the whole truck?
Front end and steering are fantastic though. Wish I would have made these changes years ago and saved all the nasty ride and sore shoulder from steering. |
Did you by chance ever replace the control arm bushings with the poly replacements did you? I'm getting ready to do it, just wondering if they'll actually come out without me having to burn them out.
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Got a rude awakening on the Poly replacements for our Diesel Trucks. They don't fit. All the Poly Bushings that are advertised for our trucks are actually designed for the 2500 gassers that have the lighter weight suspension.
I did have to change the bolts in the control arms, forget the proper name for em right now. Thew were froze solid in there and would come out. Had to grind off the heads and beat em out with a driver and even at that I beat em so hard I mushroomed out the bolts and had to grind that off to. Wasn't no fun. |
The Energy Suspension ones don't fit? If thats the case I'm gonna be PISSED!!! I dropped over $100 for bushings, and if they don't fit I'm gonna have to spend another $100 on MOOG replacements (I won't buy Napa crap).
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I didn't try the bushings your referring to in particular but none of the Rear leaf spring parts, Front coil shock suppressors or front and rear sway bar mounts fit. I found parts listed for other applications to fit some of this but still wasn't able to replace most of it at all.
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I have the right size Energy Suspension sway bar bushings for the front, the rear IDK about, haven't had to mess with it yet. I'm just replacing the control arm bushings right now, should work, I can't imagine Dodge used different control arms for the Cummins trucks.
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