Advice On What To Do
 

i have a 99 cummins. it aint been running in a year. it finaly got it taken to the local dodge dealer. they said that it had to much blowbye. and it would take a minimum of 17 hours to fix. im not going to have them do anything to it. i know it has a cracked block (code 53 block)
which do yall think would be better :humm:
A) putting a cheap set of rings in it and tradeing it off for a new dodge.
b) taking out a loan, getting a better block, and moddifing it with new turbo, fuel pump, electronics, and the rest of the works to go along with it.

About $5G buys a whole new drop in long block complete with turbo. If it already has a cracked block and the piston and or rings are bad it sure don't sound like it's worth fixin the motor. advertise it for sale with the dead motor and le one a these guys that wants to transplant a 12V have it.

If the rest of truck is in good shape, I'd go w/ another engine. Still cheaper than dealing with a truck payment and emissions crap.

its an automatic which is in good shape.
has a couple rust spots (truck was from new jersey)
but other than that it is in good shape.
and i already pay 450 a month payment on it now

If you haven't run it for a year, it sounds like you don't need the transportation.

I vote B. If you have the money for the payment now. B is for BOMBs baby.....

Seriously, figure out your bottom line on both options. Go with the one that makes the most sense as far as what you need out of the truck.

New or Bombed? Both are gonna cost you $...

Good Luck....:c:

Bomb it.

talked to the bank today and they would only give me 4000 dollars. no wheres enough to even get me started off on just the basics. it sucks havin a truck that dont run. and not enough means to fixer up. so im stuck for awhile till i can come up with enough to get a new engine or figure somethin else out

who did ya get it from in NJ, I could go with a few friends and give them a nice hello........... 450 a month on a truck with a bad motor that hurts, time to start looking for a wrecked truck with a good motor, and swap it in there. serious on the visit, I am in NJ.

transplant a 12 valver in there.....cheap and easy

do yer own blowby test on the one in there

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By Bill Flemming

A better way to check engine condition is by a blowby test. This is what Cummins uses and is very simple.

You need a blowby tool. a blowby orifice tool is simply a tee with one .221" (15/64-in) outlet. Connect one end of the tee to the end of the blowby tube. Put a manometer on last tee outlet. That is your blowby tool. They sell them at the Cummins, but I have made my own plenty of times. A simple manometer can be made by looping into a U 6' of clear tubing with water in it half way. Measure how high the water level rises with a tape measure, multiply it by 2, convert it to LPMs

Rough conversion is 1"= 27 lpm, add 3 lpm for each one inch (1/2'' of rise in the tube) of water

New engines numbers are;
63 liters per minute(2.5" water rise = 5" of water) @ 2200rpm,
76 L/Min (3.5" rise) @ 2500rpm
85 L/Min (4.5" rise) @ 2800rpm.

Worn engine that needs rebuilding are roughly double i.e.
126 L/Min(10.5"rise) @ 2200rpm
152 L/Min(14.5"rise) @ 2500rpm
170 L/Min(17"rise) @ 2800 rpm

The valves could also be out of adjustment.

Another way, same idea, is to block the blowby tube with a 1/2'' pipe nipple with a cap that has a 15/64 hole drilled in it. Use 3/8'' id looped clear tubing with water in it slipped over the oil dipstick tube. Use sharp tipped felt marker to mark the water level with the engine off, have someone start an already warmed up engine and run the rpms up to 2.2, 2.5 & 2.8k rpms. Mark each water level with the pen, measure then multiply each by 2.

This is all very simple to do, just hard to explain with words.

Found a complete engine at Spalding Auto Parts, used auto parts, used truck parts, salvage, wrecking
thats one thats close to me here in Idaho,but I'm sure theres something closer.
They want 4k for it...was 3k just a few months ago,must be the higher fuel prices? LOL

I'd start with the simple stuff first - dump the crank case and build your own vent line back to the block (freezer plug). Next, pull the covers and head and check for valve lash. Check turbo boost pressures with a gizmo like that has been posted on here (Whit knows where it is) and then check your fuel delivery system.

If the truck ran when you bought it and it doesn't run now it isn't likely as bad as you think it is. Just because it has a 53 block doesn't mean it is cracked - just means it could be cracked. If you ran it and then checked your fluids and had milky white in the oil or lots of shitty black in the coolant then you would know for sure. If the truck has never been used in a high HP situation I would not even worry about that.

So, where does that leave you, well, with help from us and some elbow grease a truck that will most certainly run for under $4k. That dealer is trying to screw you over is what I think.

What you will need if you don't have it:
Battery charger (trickle charger)
Gauges
Code reader or smarty box
A decent set of wrenches - nothing fancy here just what you need to get the job done.
A engine lift of some sort to assist in removing the head
A torque wrench - a good one.
A shop manual from Dodge (1200 page version)
New fluids, gaskets and filters

My guess is that it will start after 30 hours of do-it-yourself.:choochoo:

for one i know it has a cracked block. most of the code 53 blocks craked on the outside thin wall on passenger side.
thanks whit. ill see if i can figure it out.

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and for a more detailed version of whats wrong and where im at look at post A STORY OF A DIP SHIT THAT BOUGHT A TRUCK ONLINE

So you've seen the crack in the block?
Did it run okay when you bought it?
My old engine had some blowby and ran great,too bad for me my block cracked...
I doubt ALOT that you've got such low compression that it won't run,I think something else is the matter.

yes ive seen it and also welded it some more.
it ran like a top untill the exhaust manifold cracked, but even then it ran good just smoked a bit more
i doubt it has low compression as good as it ran before. its just one of those things that you just cant figure out what the hell is wrong with the bastard.