Cummins Front Hub Removal Tip
 

Found this and thought maybe it could help someone

This truck has the rotors behind the hub. Not easy to remove. Unless you use this tip ...

Back the four hub bolts out .5 inch, use a deep 1/2 drive 9/16 with a 1" extension, place the socket and extension on a hub bolt and start the truck and crank the wheel. The hub, rotor and everything falls right out. You may have to move from front to back once or twice but it sure beats breaking the old rotor off with a sledge hammer

Great tip...

But, after ten winters of salted roads - it didnt work for me. I was replacing the rotors anyway, so ended up beating them off with 4lb hammers. Make sure you use antisieze when putting it all back together.

A flame wrench help tremendously... Last time I did them on the 95 I ended up replacing both hubs as well, thats the first time I haven't been able to break something free with the torch, I probably could have cut them off, but figured that would have fried the grease in the bearings anyways, so I just replaced the whole thing.

When I did mine I wanted to replace everything I could while I was in there. So mine got new bearings, rotors, wheel studs, ball joints and U joints while I was there. I was only doin this once. I also used antsieze on the ball joints to. We had to use a ball joint press and an air hammer both at the same time to bust them factory joints lose.

What you really need is a 12 pack and a buddy with an Enerpac set to bust em loose,torching anything around this area risks the sealed bearing unit and those aren't cheap.I tried all the other methods and would swear that they were welded in there,but the power of hydraulics finally won.

I see alot off salt on the roads around here and i usually get a socket and old extension on the bolts from the backside and use a BFH:dm: and beat them out and always use lots of antisieze when I re install

:lol: BFH means the biggest snapon air hammer right?

I mean , I bust ujoints all the time with mine!

Good Suggestions guys....I like the slide hammer/puller combo...if that dont work....I let it soak overnight and smack it with a big hammer !!

How did you guy press the lug bolts back in? Quad4x4.com says you should use a shop Press and press them in, i don't have a shop press. Or it says to drive them in...but doesn't say with what...I don't want to be banging away at a new rotor and $250 hun with a 40oz craftsman sledge hammer...:argh: this whole replacing the front rotors is driving me crazy

Myself I got the studs started just enough to hold in place with a hammer and then used a stack of washer over the bolts just as spacers and put the lug nuts on to suck the studs in, before I mounted them that is.

My compressor was too weak to pull mine back in and i don't have a good enough way to hold them in place so I could do it by hand so I had the local tire shop do it. It cost me $50. Check around and see what they can be done for in your area.

Yes, a compressor help immensely with this.

A compressor, you know me better then that. I did that on the living room watchin TV with a 4 way lug wrench. The carpet held the rotors in place real nice.

IF YOUR INSTALLING NEW LUGS: Be sure to check the nuts a few times for the first 100 miles or so in case you didn't get them seated all the way and they seat themselves while your driving. If you don't catch them before they come to loose, you may end up with a lose tire. I know your all askin, how in the world would he know that.:w2:

Thanks for the replies, answered my question, not sure about doing it on the living room floor...got hardwood floors and the wife unit doesn't take to kindly to working on truck parts inside the house. :madd: